Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

New tank liner problem

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by spritch60, Nov 12, 2007.

  1. I recently purchased a new petrol tank which I've had airbrushed and I have had 2 unsuccessful attempt to line the inside of the tank with a tank liner kit from MCA. I noticed when filling up on the weekend that the liner is coming away and starting to float in the tank. I thought I might clean it out and try to just get a layer of paint or kill rust on the inside. Does anyone have any suggestions? Will kill rust work?

  2. Be careful getting the old liner out. Acetone will quickly root your air work.

    I don't think paint or killrust will work. There is a product out there that a paint shop put in my tank which wasn't one of the standard kits.

    I can't remember the name, but it was meant to be used to line fuel pipes.

    Still you would need to ensure that your internal surface is completely clean first and that is what is causing your current problems anyway.

    Go buy some more acetone to get the botched liner out properly. then get some phosphoric acid. You don't get enough of either with the kits.

    Then proceed as normal with the kits, using greater quantities of the first two steps.
  3. Any reason for wanting to line a new tank?

    They only need such treatment if they have more than a light pattering of surface rust AND you don't intend keeping the tank full.

    Lining requires meticulous preparation to work properly, as you have now found out twice??!

    If the rust is powdery and wants to come off in the fuel and clog your filter and/or jets, then the usual cure is to use gravel or suitable stones no more than 6 mm in size, and swish them around inside the tank while it contains water or something that won't ignite from a spark!

    The gravel must not be the clay-based orange type, which could partly disolve in liquid. Sharp-edged blue metal (as it is known) works extremely well. I have successfully cleaned at least 2 tanks using this method, and they do not rust out afterwards.


    Trevor G
  4. See parts for sale forum theres some kreem for sale both in sydney and melbourne.done properly this stuff works :wink:
  5. These kits do not have enough acetone or acid to do it properly, strange since these are the cheapest. I have seen the liner for sale without these from a classic car supply company, Eastwoods??. Acetone and phosphoric acid from the hardware. Make sure there is no oily residue in the tank, wash with lots of CT18 and hot water. Then acid and a handfull of nuts and bolts, fill and leave overnight. It will not eat through the tank and only reacts with iron oxide (rust). Rinse several times with acetone (to remove water), blow dry with an air hose. Make sure it is bone dry. Add liner and have a slow flow of air from a hose into the tank, this reduces the vapour pressure (otherwise it takes forever to dry and forms a thick layer in the bottom of the tank). You can use a small computer fan on the fuel cap opening, blow don't suck. Be careful using a hairdryer, acetone does not like a spark.