Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

New RVF400 information

Discussion in 'Showcase' started by Pocketz, Feb 22, 2010.

  1. Here is the info posted on bikesales

    "HONDA RVF 400 - Unique Black and white RVF fairing, tinted visor, aftermarket exhaust, green under engine neons, will come with RWC, new tyres, service and tune. 5 months rego. Excellent handling, one of the fasterst LAMS approved bikes on the road, perfect first bike. $8000 - Contact Nick on 04******** or E-mail for further details, test ride etc."

    Here is the link with pictures and so on http://www.bikesales.com.au/all-bik...4294966622&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=11&silo=1400.

    My question to you is what would i need to ask this guy. Should of it had an engine rebuild done yet and at what k's. I am completely useless in this area and will have my mate take a look over the bike before purchase. But want to gain as much info as possible.

    And for anyone that picks up on it i did purchase an rs125 but returned it due to mechanical issues that was to much of a piss around for me to be bothered. I have around 9k to spend so if there are any other reccomendations. I don't want a CBR or Ninja but a sportsbike similar to the lot (i am a tall guy 6'5") and i weigh 90kgs.

  2. I wouldnt buy it. but it shouldnt need an engine rebuild at 35,000kms

    man these bikes are overpriced. you can get allot of bike for 8k if your are not lams restricted
  3. Haggling could probably get me it at 7k, i've got the cash to spare. So price out of the equation are they good bikes? Or i was possibly looking at KAWASAKI, ZX-6R (ZX636) NINJA, B2, 2004, SPORTS, 636cc, 92kW, 6 SPEED MANUAL, 25224kms, AN AWESOME BIKE - 'YOSHI' PIPE SOUNDS WICKED - TOP CONDITION THROUGHOUT - RIDE AWAY PRICE IS $7990 (inc 12 months rego, GST, govt' stamp duty, transfer fee, RWC) - LOOKS & RIDES A1. , This bike has been fully checked by our workshop & is AVAILABLE NOW FOR INSPECTION.

    Though, as you most likely know the ninja is not a LAMS approved bike and it won't be sitting in my garage for 15 months i can gurantee that.
  4. Firstly you should be asking if he has the right price on the right bike.
  5. would you really buy a bike with neons on it? Obviously the owner is a twat.

    Seriously though these are massively overpriced (because they are lams) you can pick up a well sorted track vfr400 or rvf400 for under $5,000. Usually this price includes a whole bunch of extras as well.

    Get some shit box ride for the mandatory time then buy something decent with the money you have saved.

    EDIT: is it a grey import? The compliance plate indicates it is. Hang on aren't all RVF400 grey imports? If so it has way more than 35,000 km and parts are gonna be expensive and harder to get. Honda Aus will not help you. I've had a mate go through it with a grey import with Honda, lucky he didn't need anything urgently (track bike) but had to get parts from the UK (forks and r/r). But shipping was expensive.

    I cannot recommend enough for your first bike get something that is readily available and cheap. If that money is burning a hole in your pocket get a cb400/sv650su etc. You will learn heaps. RVF/VFR are different beasts, v4 engine with gear driven cam shafts. Most learner ones will have been long since flogged. If you can't work on it yourself and know where to get parts it is going to cost a small fortune to get anything done. I'm also guessing most leaner ones have fitted a larger rear tyre as the stock tyre size would be getting harder and harder to get. If the suspension has not been altered to reflect a larger rear the handling will be fukt and to get it altered properly is gonna cost a couple of $100 with a reputable suspension technican (I did not say a mechanic for a reason).
  6. Quite seriously I wouldn't buy the bike because of it. Clearly the guy doesn't know his arse from his elbow and thus I wouldn't trust what had been done to the bike.

    Maybe ask the guy, if he takes the neons off, will he sell it to you for the $3000 it's worth.
  7. yeah the fully sickness of the neons is what put me off straight away.

    buy thats 4,500 gs500 on here. thats a bargain
  8. +1 At least someone agrees with me today. Cheers.

    Ok if OP if you are dead set on it this is what I would look at:

    - get an engine compression test done. If its not right this is a deal breaker.
    - fork seals and when was the oil last changed (factor in cost of an oil change)
    - rear shock when was the oil last changed (factor in cost of an oil change)
    - when was oil changed? Can the owner prove it? Anything more than 5,000 km intervals is probably not that great on this bike. What type of oil? Anything less than motul 5100 or similar I would walk away. Factor in the cost of oil and filter change. (you should do this regardless of the bike you buy)
    - when was the last time the valve clearance was done? Factor in the cost of a valve clearance or the time to do it yourself. If this is not done expect major engine repair work.
    - drive train. When were the sprockets and chain last replaced. Factor in the cost of a new chain and sprockets. If chain is dirty owner doesnt give two shits walk away
    - fairing damage. You can't tell until you see it
    - frame damage. Especially around the head. You will want to go over this with a fine tooth comb. If it's fukt here it is fukt never to be reregistered and it is not repairable for track and is dangerous
    - fuel tank. Have a look in it. Any rust or other fluids etc means repair work. Maybe on engine itself. I would walk away or expect trouble.
    - If the bike is warm when you see it (touch engine cover or exhaust) walk away owner is trying to hide a bike that burns oil
    - When you start it if it has any sort of smoke coming out the exhaust walk away now. It's stuffed no matter what the price
    - Check oil colour if its black and the owner said they changed it not long ago they are lying to you. Walk away. It should be honey coloured and free of particles.
    - Radiator. If coolant is not the same colour and vibrant or has oil coloured fluid in it. Walk away the head is fukt. When was it last changed? Factor in the cost of new coolant
    - brakes. Any meat left on the pads? Are the rotors at the minimum thickness. Its stamped on the rotors.
    - Brake fluid should be a vibrant sort of honey colour and not dark. If dark factor in the cost of new brake fluid.
    - Do the brakes leak at the master cyclinder? At the caliper? Do the brake lines look ok?
    - wheels. Check for damage. Should be easy to spot.
    - battery. How old is it? Anything over 5 years factor in the cost of a new battery.
    - reg/rec is not great on these bikes. Ask if it has been replaced with a better unit. Expect trouble if it hasn't been changed.
    - What type of airbox is it running? Any air filter. A lot of them have been raced and it is popular (especially in Europe/Japan) to run an open air box with no air filter. Also run bigger carbie jets when this is done. In Aus for a street bike I would want an air filter. It will cost more than the air filter to get it back to stock. Carbies will have to be rejetted and retuned.

    That's all I can think of right now. Seriously if you don't have mechanical knowledge this is not the bike I would learn it on.
  9. I'd recommend you to get a cheap bike and save up the left over money for a bigger bike when time comes. Get a cheap shitty bike so you can juice the **** out of it to build up your skills and having no worries if you damage it.
    At the end of the day, its still just a shitty 'L'oser bike, so if you're trying spend more money to get the best performance, or the best looking bike with neons; its not worth it.
    Plus its going to be your first bike and i'd assume you're new to motorcycles(correct me if iim wrong) so i'd doubt you would want to bring home an aged imported bike that could have problems on you.

    If you want to spend the money, get a bigger cc. From your suggested bikes above, I assume you want a sports bike? I know kawasaki have a Ninja 650RL that is LAMS or the SV650, they sound tough as.
  10. Ignore the clueless RVF bashers, and offer $6K if it's in good nick. Service history is important.
  11. I'm not bashing them I have a mate that has a track rvf400 and its fantastic. He did not pay anywhere near 8 or 6 grand for it and it was pretty much sorted from the get go with some engine modifications.

    But, its a 15 year old bike that even when new required delicate love and attention. For $8 grand its way overpriced and could have a myriad of problems. Some may be fatal some easy enough to fix. The OP stated that he has not much mechanical knowledge and I would not recommend a bike that is going to require some, probably a lot. Taking it to a mechanic will cost a bomb. Honda won't talk to you so you need to get parts of the internet which can be hit and miss.

    As a second bike, yes I would recommend it if the owner realises there are some risks involved but as a 1st bike that is most likely going to be primary transport I cannot recommend it. Not at that price though. Even $6 grand is too much
  12. I had one, and took it for weekend runs, touring, to the track, and commuting. No problems. It doesn't cost a bomb to have serviced, but you do need to find a mechanic with model specific knowledge.

    So, my comment again, make sure it's in good condition and has been serviced correctly. If you were going to spend $6K on a VTR250 or a Whoflungdung, nobody would bat an eyelid. Ironic.
  13. err I would. You would have to give me money to take a hyosung.

    Careful where you are sticking those words.
  14. Fair enough, it just seems they're a bike people are very quick to steer others clear off...probably due to the $10K Sumoto price tags, and not understanding what's so great about them.

    Eh? :-s
  15. sorry I thought you might have been commenting on what I was saying. Comment withdrawn.

    At least we are on the same page. I'm not saying they are a bad bike, far from it, they are fantastic. But buying one second hand off another learner where the OP does not have mechanical knowledge has considerable risks and if willing to spend that much money there are other options available that has less risks attached.
  16. OK, gotcha - cheers.

    Well, the easy answer is buy an old naked 250 4T or similar in good mechanical nick for $2K, learn how to ride and service it, then come back and ask again.
  17. probably won't need to ask the second time. Probably have enough of an idea by then to do it yourself.