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New DR650 underwater

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by plaidler, Dec 18, 2014.

  1. g'day all,
    took my dr650 down to menai on the weekend for my first time off road and all sorts of things happened.

    I ended up going through a puddle and found myself submerged up to the seat, the bike never stopped going forward albeit slowly so i kept the throttle on and made it out the otherside ok. Bike was running fine, made it home, rode the next day no worries.

    My question is there anything i need to do in regards to maintenance after having the motor fully submerged other than oiling the chain.
  2. give it a good clean, make sure everything that needs do be clean and dry is, and chain. I would think your air filter should be ok, but if you know what your doing it might be worth a check as well(although if it had no issues at te time with sputtering etc... should be ok?).
  3. Check the oil. If it's at all cloudy, drain and replace. Have a look in the rear brake reservoir as well if it was submerged.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Your lucky it didn't stop,if its EI thats probably why.If its carbed and the float bowl breather hoses get fully submerged it usually stops the engine.They hang from the carb to below the bike.You can add a T near the carb and run the extra hose up high on the bike.De-watering bikes after they stop isn't fun especially big boys like your bike,checking depth is smart.Check oil colour,white is bad and it needs changing.Do this via the dip stick.Check out Dirt Bike World for more off road tips.BTW Menai has been an Illegal riding area for a very long time even regoed,keep an eye out for The Trail Bike Cops.I hear they are highly trained riders,sorry I couldn't help that.Its also a good idea not to ride on your own,drown a bike on a hot day and have no water,it wont kill you,Menai isn't that remote but it wont be fun.Been there done that.
  5. lmao at other than oiling the chain
    • Like Like x 1
  6. took the seat/fairings off and opened the air filter and took some photo's. Found what looks like milky oily water in the air filter chamber?


  7. Just a reminder, rode the bike to penrith today and its still running like new so im assuming i just need to get in there and clean everything.
    Should i change the air filter as well?
    Ive always had the mechanic handle my cruiser but if im gonna be off roading im gonna have to be more hands on so all advice is appreciated.
  8. The air filter should hold oil,some has dripped into the water in the bottom of the airbox.You did go deep didn't you.To do the filter buy some filter oil, specific filter oil only,wash yours with kero and clean the box.
    Petrol tends to degrade them,after the kero use soapy water to get it really clean and then dry it .Then use an ice cream container and gloves add the oil through the filter,work it fully through.Then squeeze as much out as you can in the Ice creme container,don't wring it,squeeze only.It needs to be tacky but not saturated in oil.Pour the extra oil back into the bottle to use again.Its not fun but its a MUST regularly.BTW you can get filter socks from better bike off road shops,light weigh filters like a condom that extend times between cleans.There disposable.BTW your fiulter looks fine at the moment,wip the water away is all it needs at the moment
  9. Haha, that would have been a shock, would have filled your boots with water!
  10. DR650 filter is pretty tolerant. All I do to clean mine is a good scrub in hot (as hot as my hands can cope with) soapy water, squeeze out and dry it in the sun. Once dry, I immerse it in any oil that's to hand. I've got a big drum of hydraulic oil which I use for general purposes, so I usually use that. If I didn't have that, it would be getting Valvoline Super Diesel which I also keep in stock. Anyhoo, once squeezed out it gets whacked back in the airbox (which is a bit of a fiddle to get it in and properly seated but it would be easier with smaller hands than mine) and it's all done for the next 5000 km.

    No, it's not the proper way to do it, but it saves paying through the nose for filter oil and arsing around with kero more often than needs be. Bike has 65,000 km of thrashing on it and shows no sign of top end wear or breathing problems. Performance and economy are as good as, if not better than, they were when the bike was new and shiny.
  11. My air fuilter tips are more suited to a full on endro bike,they tend to get really hard core dirty. 65,000ks would be 3 engine rebuilds for my 250 Husky and its a four stroke to boot.
  12. It was sooooo unintentional haha, at the time i just floored it and tried not to stop. I looked back and yelled at my mate "did you see that!" which seemed like the most important thing at the time lol.
  13. hey all
    i bought all the gear and cleaned/reoiled the airfilter, i went over with a rag and cleaned every part of the electrics and surrounding area i could get to. Still need to do the chain but the prob is i have no garage living in an apartment block.
    Is it possible to go down to carlovers or similer and clean/relube down there?.

    There was a little tube right at the bottom of the air filter box, i assume this is to see if there is any water in the chamber?. I took it off and cleaned it as well.

    I pulled the smaller filter off which is for the carby i think and noticed there were muddy water stains inside the tube towards the carby. Is it just a case of draining the fuel with the little screw on the bottom. Should i change the carby filter as well? Seems small enough to replace cheaply.

    Thanks as always
  14. Sounds like you got lucky with making it through the water crossing!
    As the bike continues to run, and you've been riding it since, any water down the exhaust should have cooked off and I'd doubt it would have made it to the piston. (for future reference: if the bike stalls and is submerged, pull a sparkplug out and try starting it to spit out any water in the head, to avoid hydraulic lock)
    In your case, I would still change the oil and oil filter, as it is cheap and easy to do anyhow.
    wash and clean the airfilter.
    the small filter (on top of the air box) for the carby breather, just detach it from the hose, wash it in warm soapy water, then let it dry before refitting it. I've added an extra piece of foam to this filter to avoid dust particles being drawn into the top of the carby.
    Turn your fuel tap off and then drain the carby, via the drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl.
    Yes; give the chain and oil.
    I would consider, undoing the clamps of the bottom of the fork (rubber) boots and take a look if any crap is sitting on the fork seals, just hose them off and apply a little WD40, then put the fork boots back on.
    Finally, check out youtube for videos on how to de-water dirt bikes....... yes it is a PITA, but something you'll need to know if riding off the beaten track.
    (P.S..... excellent choice in bike!, best bike I've had in 35+years of riding)
  15. i read your post dobbo and tried undoing the screw for the carby and its insanely tight, ill take a trip down the mechanics next week as i dont want to just keep applying pressure and break something.
    Thanks for the reply
  16. I expect, given a little time, you may start to experience electrical problems. Water in the connectors, switches, and cables starts the corrosion process.
  17. Park it in hot sunshine to cook water out of all the places you can't reach. I just got my bike back from the mechanic (a BMW not a DR.) He found the gearbox was half full of water that had entered through the speedo cable. The moral is it is the stuff you wouldn't think of that gets you. Oil is cheap, bikes are expensive, change the lot, you will feel better even if it makes no difference, and you will know more about the bike.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  18. WD40 (Water Displacement 40) on the electrical connections.
    Give the carby a good spray over with WD40, and most springs. I avoid spraying it on the chain, as i just oil it. Avoid brake disc also.
    Once a year, i clean cables (throttle, clutch) by drowning them in WD40, then when all the
    Gunk runs out, i use sewing machine oil to lube them.
    The bar mounted choke cable is renouned for building up grit, eventually, the choke remains partially on and the bike runs like crap, most owners tend to mess around with carby jetting, float height etc, when it is only the choke cable.

    The DR is a great bike to learn a few mechanical things on (& quite forgiving) so don't be afraid to do the mechanical work your self. I guess the only nut/bolt on mine that l haven't touched, would be the gearbox internals. Plenty of info available on the internet, forums, youtube. Take pics as you go, so to remember how things go back.
    Working on the bike yourself, will inspire you to go further off the beaten track to explore this continent of ours!
    Sorry about getting off topic, but l just love what the DR offers & hope others discover this gem of a bike. :)
  19. Drowned bikes - I agree with all that's been said here about getting the water out of the cylinder by pulling the plug before turning the engine over, drying electric connections with dewatering fluid, draining carboy float bowls, oil changes etc.

    If it's been right down, it's useful to take off the air filter, and lie the bike down on it's exhaust side and lift the bike up by the front wheel if you can. This can get water out of the exhaust and intake tracts, so you are not pumping water through the engine when you attempt to start the engine and if exhaust valves are open, there is a (faint) chance some of the water will drain out. You will want the exhaust to be empty of water during any attempt to pump the water out of the engine. There would then be no chance that water can enter the cylinder through an open exhaust valve. Not usually a problem on singles, but on multis is more likely.

    I've been consistently surprised how well modern bikes with electronic ignition recover from drowning.

    Single cylinder bikes with kick starters have an advantage here, it is a possible shortcut to test the water (literally) by turning the engine over slowly and carefully with the kick starter. It is useful to remove the little window to see where the piston is as you do this. - Stop if the resistance seems even the least bit more than usual. It is often simpler and safer to remove the plug straight up, which you will have to do anyway if the bike has been properly immersed.