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New chain or chain and sprockets?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by luke4224, Sep 3, 2012.

  1. I've bought a GS500F and know it needs a new chain. My question is, should I replace the sprockets as well?

    I'm pretty good with tools and love to have a go but want to know how important it is to use a torque wrench to secure the sprockets?

    Also, i've been searching around for info on what kind of chain to get but cannot find the info I'm after. Are there any brands or specific types I should avoid all together?

    My rear sprocket has 20,000kms on it.

  2. Replace them both - the sprocket's only got a few thousand left in it, if it's got anything at all...
    • Like Like x 1
  3. +1 to Nitekreeper. Replace chain and Sprocket. Stay away from cheap Chinese brand chains and sprockets they are made from the shavings of tin cans.
  4. Do chain and both sprockets............

    Depending on when the parts get to me im looking at doing mine this week...........this writeup would differ to yours since its a different bike but it might be of help.


    Ive sourced my chains from this mob (im getting the RK GB520GXW for $125)....X ring is better than O rings

    my chain breaker and riveter from this mob (for $35)

    and just getting the cheaper, stronger, but heavier steel sprockets..........change both!
    http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g281/robracer_2006/Chain Replacement ZX6R/Supersprox.jpg
  5. I've never bothered with torque wrenches for stuff like sprockets. The front one will have a stop and a locking washer on it anyway so you are not actually tightening the nut against the sprocket.

    The rear - I kind of get close to torque figure just by working it out - force x distance etc. Never had any probs.
  6. Cheers guys.

    Is it necessary to get a chain breaker or can I just use a cutting piece on a grinder? I've seen a few vids on youtube do it this way.

  7. Yes just cut the old one off but you will most likely need a chain tool to get the new one on.
  8. Using a grinder is fine, but chain breakers tend to be safer and less likely to accidentally cause damage to other bits of the bike.
  9. If your new chain has a rivet type master link, you'll need a riveter!
    Decent splitter/riveters aren't too expensive. :)
    Also the GS500, from memory has a 110 link chain. Many chains are 120 so you'll need to shorten it.
    Splitters make the job easier & less chance of damaging your brand new chain!
  10. Also be sure to count out the number of links very carefully - then count them again. Nothing worse than turning a 120 link chain into a 109 by mistake ;) (not that I've done it myself, but it would be an easy mistake to make).
  11. I usually put the chain on the bike & mark where I want to shorten it.
    Just make you have two inner links together as the Master link is an outer one :)

    Attached Files:

  12. sprockets and chains replaced as a set

    you can replace only the chain, but it will stretch to fit the sprockets,
    so it will end up the same as the chain you are replacing.

    be sure to keep it clean and lubed, makes it last heaps longer, and more power!
  13. how do you get more power if the chain is lubed????????????????????????????
  14. Don't worry too much about a torque wrench but it is worth cleaning up the bolts (and nuts if it's got them) and using threadlock on reassembly. Sprockets can be prone to working loose over time because of the frequent load reversals.
  15. Nah its not necessary, Trent (ONE) done this when we changed Mav's chains.............its more of a hassle though and it would be handy if you had steady hands..............the last thing you want to do it damage the other links.
  16. grinder is fine, Even when using a chainbreaker I used to grind the ends off the pins so the chainbreaker didnt drop its guts. Now i grind halfway through the pin's until I'm halfway through the side plate and lever off with a big err, lever.
    Easy way - Do NOT remove wheel first, cut old chain, its easier to do while its on the sprocket, you might need to remove the chainguard for easy access. remove rear wheel, remove front sprocket and replace with the old chain still fitted. Replace rear sprocket, Fit rear wheel. Using the old cut link, join the new chain to the old one and pull it through. Carefully. Put rear wheel as far forward as the adjusters will go.
    Dump old chain. Measure new chain around sprocket as in the Pic above. cut to length. fit joiner link, adjust to correct tension, and your mother's brother's Robert..f
    • Like Like x 1
  17. Couple of things

    'more power' means more available power at the wheel, rather than using power to drive chain around. test's (that I vaguely remember reading in a bike mag a while ago but have no idea which one or when) show about a 6%?? (from memory) gain with a well maintained chain and sprocket set.

    Chain 'stretch' technically, doesnt happen. the chain wears between the rollers and pins, as an example .1mm wear each x 110 pins = 11mm 'stretch'

    a worn sprocket will wear out a new chain faster than a new sprocket, how much faster? no idea, the people that dont replace stuff as a set usually buy a cheaparse chain that wont last as long as a good one anyway..

    A well maintained chain on a 80's 1100 honda in the hands of a friend of mine lasted over 100,000 km's. I usually replace a chain and sprocket set once on any bike I've had.
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Im guessing he uses a steel sprocket?
  19. You're not really getting "more power".
    Clean & lubed = less friction.
    Overcoming friction uses some of the power you have.
    Basic engineering :)
    • Like Like x 1
  20. Thanks for the advice guys. Got myself some stock sprockets and a D.I.D x ring chain. Going to have a crack this weekend. Will post up some pics of how I went.