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New bike ride in period

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by thewolf, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. OK, total newbie here, which is of course why I have bought a new bike and plan to NEVER drop it. :):):)

    Anyway, what should one out for when one rides in a new bike? I guess someone may tell me something at some point, Not so much the regulars routines, but what should one be doing extra (or not doing as the case may be)

    In addition I suspect this bike is NOT going to be used a great deal (newbie in winter rain in Melbourne, I'm vowing to practice in the rain, but that doesn't mean I'm going to go on long rides in it, hate to say, that's what cars are for), anyway I digress, the bike is unlikely to get really long K's so may well have a prolonged breaking in period, so anything extra there as well.

    The (Curious) Wolf

    PS. Posting as i don't have the bike yet, when I have the bike I doubt I will be posting here :p

  2. Your dealer, and more to the point, his service manager, with whom you would be well-advised to strike up a friendly relationship, now, is the best person to advise you about the appropriate 'running-in' period for the new bike. Bear in mind that the modern motorcycle is a wondrous device when it comes to the quality of the metalurgy therein, and does not require the long period of time and restrictions that old fogies like me were used to when we were used to rebuilding engines every 30,000 miles as a matter of course, and then driving round with a "Running In" sign in the back window so people would know why we were driving so slowly :LOL:.
  3. unfortunately, some service managers, and the twits who write the service manual, are still stuck in the old days!

    the most important time in a new motor's life is the first 20-30minutes, and the first 1 or 2 runs, as most of the "breaking in" is done then.

    i would be interested to see what your new bike's recomended run in procedure is.

    FWIW - several bike and car motors i've run in have all had the following procedure:

    - first start on mineral oil (propper run in oil, or the $7/4L safeway oil does the same job!), allow to warm up to temp, then drive/ride up to a rev limit of 50-70% (of engine's intended rpm range) making sure to vary the throttle position (u can use full throttle) and load up the motor to bed in the rings. use a bit of engine braking to suck the junk off the bores, etc. approx 20-30km.

    - drop first batch of oil and put in the same again with a new filter. same drive/ride again, however this time use about 60-70% of the rpm range. as above throttle work, approx 200-300km (melbourne to winton race way is about the right distance).

    - drop the second batch of oil and filter, put the oil intended to be used for the engine's life in, warm it up, and get out on the track/road and flog it (with some mechanical sympathy). and by that i mean introduce the revs to the motor. if the limit is 10,000rpm. for the first session, go to, say 7,000rpm (using full throttle). then after that session, go to 8,500rpm. and so on until you get to the limiter.

    - engine is run in. you can change the oil if you want, as it's cheap. but i'd say 1000km the oil is due to be dropped, then you can follow the usual intervals.

    note: this is just my method. between my friends and i we have a fair few motors to our name, all run in like this work perfectly, some with 20+ track days and 20,000km road ok's on them and no signs of poor performance, high oil consumption, high amounts of blow by, etc.

    important note: running in motors is a personal thing between engine builders, manufacturers, etc. if you're unsure, do whatever the people who are honouring the warrenty, recommend. this is the safest way if anything goes wrong. i did this recently when i had a motor "expire" on the dyno. the workshop rebuilt it, and were given the task of running it in and then re-dyno'ing. this put all the onus on them. this is the only motor i've had someone else build and run in. but the method followed was the same as what i've outlined above.
  4. Wouldn't worry about it too much to be honest mainly because you are a newbie so I doubt you'll be revving the nuts off it for a little while anyway (that's the way I am looking at my bikes run in when I buy it). Personally, i;d be more concerned about the running in of new tyres, particularly in winter.

    The advice I usually give (and get) is be nice when the engine is cold, don't run it at uber high revs for a while, and change the oil early.
  5. That didn't last long did it? https://netrider.net.au/forums/showthread.php?t=111900

    Which is why all the old hands say to buy a second hand shit heap for your first bike, then buy what you want later. Not that I did that either. 8-[