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Need longer / better clutch cable for GS1100GK ... custom made?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by duncan_bayne, Nov 18, 2011.

  1. So I picked up my GS1100G today from Mototecnic (photos forthcoming). The guys there did a great job, & after all that work there were only two glitches: the idle speed was too high (trivial fix) and the clutch is still way too heavy.

    I've ridden some bikes with heavy clutches in the past, but this is the first one that's had my wrist swollen & me in quite severe pain by the time I finished a commute through the city.

    According to James at Mototecnic, the issue is that the current clutch cable is simply too short; the wider after-market bars mean that the cable is routed through a fairly contorted path and is fairly taught. He agrees with me that the clutch is a problem, & that it's just not a case of "it's an '80s litre bike, harden up".

    What I am hoping to do is find or have manufactured a longer, high-quality clutch cable that I can have fitted to replace the existing one. Does this seem like a sensible approach? Can anyone recommend a company that custom-makes control cables here in Melbourne?
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  3. I am checking on a more vintage orientated site for info,I am betting I get the usual I make my own comments but there is bound to be someone doing it
  4. Thanks :) I'll probably go this route ... get the mechanic to tell me how long the cable needs to be for easy routing, then send the instructions along with my old cable to MotionPro. In the meantime I'm going to wind up being able to crush bricks with my bare hands ...
  5. Try Conwire in Sydney,97742155
    Also Flexable Drive Agencys Kensington Vic 93819222
    Speedscreen ,Flemington,93760714
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  7. This does seem a trifle odd to me. I did a google pic search, and most of the first page seems to show big barn door fairings with huge wide handlebars behind them. Surely (yes I am serious and don't call me Shirly) your 'bars are no bigger than that?

    Did you get a GS11G or a GS11GK cable?
  8. So, I looked it up: the 'GK' bit comes from the rego / roadworthy paperwork but you're right: my bike is no GK, definitely a G. Now I'm confused ... how did it come to be known (legally) as a GK?

    I'd assumed the 'K' bit indicated the year but in fact it indicated 'looks like some guy at Suzuki got drunk one night and turned a GS1100G into a Goldwing' :)
  9. I'd first try re routing the cable as a temporary measure to see if this actually lightens the pull at the lever. If it does not, which is what I sort of suspect, then I'd look at modifying the actuator arm at the clutch end. Making it a bit longer to be precise. You would loose a bit of travel, so you would have to be a bit more pedantic at keeping the cable precisely adjusted, but you may strike a happy medium.
  10. +1. The length of the cable shouldn't make any difference to the required pull. A clutch cable would have to be doubled back on itself a few times to add much to the friction.
  11. too tight a radius, around the headstem for example, will make the clutch actuation stiffer.
    As Roarin said, as a temporary fix, re route the cable to keep it the curve as open and free as possible. Also check at full steering lock....worst time possible to have it bind ...low speed maneuvering...
  12. I should have mentioned why I thought a new cable may not help. The bike is 30 years old, and I reckon it would be a miracle if it were still running the origional clutch plates and springs. First thing people usually do is fit heavier springs. Causing a heavier lever.