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Need help with wheelies....

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by bambam_101, Feb 1, 2008.

  1. Well im slowly learning how to wheelie the 10. Starting off slowly tho. Little higher each time and now im starting to use the throttle to maintain them. Whereas before it was up and straight back down.

    My technique has been this,

    speed = 70-80kmh
    gear = second
    cover rear brake
    clutch in
    revs up to about 9-10k
    pop clutch
    up she comes
    shit myself
    close throttle

    One problem ive been finding is that sometimes she just wont come up. All i end up doing is a 80-100kmh burn out. She starts fishtailing(which is awesome fun in its own right!) and i end up backing off.

    What causes this?? Is it not enough revs? Or not popping the clutch quick enough? (slipping) To counteract this, i gave her a shitload more revs and she comes up but lets just say, ive had one or two brown pants moments where ive thought i was gonna end up on my ass for sure. In fact, most recent one was about 10 minutes ago, hence, this thread. :LOL:

    Any other tips for my technique you guys can offer me to improve them?

  2. A couple of tips. Resist the urge to lean forward / pull the bike towards your chest as the front comes up. Keep your feet on the pegs no matter what, covering the back brake will bring you back from angles that feel waaaaay too far gone. Get used to that funny feeling slowly, if you're used to it you're not scared, if you're not scared you're in control. Take it easy. Wheelies kill a lot of nice bikes, in a much bigger way than a little low side.

    No help on the wheel spin. I don't get that problem. :LOL:
  3. Ive ridden a zx10r and i can bring it up in 2nd at 6k rpm.

    Your spinning out because your running crap tyres? What tyres are on the bike? To help avoid this you could try giving the bars a pull to help get the front up and keep from spinning out.

    Sit on the back of the rider seat, if your heavy then this will benefit riding the wheelie heaps.

    Go baby steps and don't worry about BP just get use to carrying it under power with the wheel not so far off the ground.
  4. The tyres are stockers. Yeah they are crap but theyre almost due to be changed. I dont mind the fishtailing, its pretty good fun. I just wanna know how you intentionally do it as opposed to a wheelie. 80% of the time, she comes up good, the other 20% is fishtails and i hate not knowing why!!

    Cheers for the link pro.

    The 10 probably could do it at 6k rpm but im nowhere near smooth enought with the clutch yet and still have the urge to close the throttle once she comes up. Im getting better tho. Im carrying them for a good 3-5 seconds withthe front about 2ft off the ground....according to a mate who drove beside me tonihgt. (if you ask me i was damn near vertical!! :LOL: )
  5. This part below is very similar to how I crashed 2 x months ago

    except mine goes like this

    So I'll be interested to see how you go Bam. Then you can teach me! :wink: I don't think we live far from each other.

    Good Luck Bro! :grin:
  6. I can pull wet weather wheelies pretty easy with pulling on the bars and sitting back in the seat so give that a go.
  7. Thats quite funny dougz. :LOL: I mean, ouch. But still funny. (cos it wasnt me!) hehe

    How long till you start riding again bud?

    Kishys goes something like this...

  8. #9 nightgash, Feb 1, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    There is a video on youtube and it suggests before you try and clutch the front wheel up, you should select first gear and pin the throttle and let the front wheel come up under power to get accustomed to it.

  9. :rofl:

    Mate, I actually went for a little 'jaunt' today on Claires new bike! Felt awesome to be back in the saddle again, if not a little daunting after 2 1/2 months! Felt like a bit of a tool when I got off and took my cam-boot (those gumby looking things with the curved sole) out of my backpack and swapped it with my Alpinestar riding boot so I could walk around :LOL:

    It might be a bit soon but I figure that next week, (depending on the surgeons diagnosis) I might be back in plaster for another 6 x weeks so I figured 'what the hell!'

    Keep us posted with the wheelies bro! \:D/
  10. Good stuff dude.

    Woulda been better if you got of and put your sunnies on and started walking with one of these bad boys tho...


    You could tell people youre a part time taxi driver or something.....
  11. LMAO! :rofl:

    Prick. Just spat a mouthful of brew out! :LOL:
  12. One way to get used to doing wheelies is:

    1st gear
    full throttle accelerate from idle/slow
    when you get to 50-60km/h shut the throttle sharply and straight away open it wide
    Front will come up nice and smooth if you aren't a lightweight rider

    To reduce rear wheelspin, drop your rear tyre pressure to 20-25 psi.
    This will make your bike handle worse, and your tyre will wear out quick,
    but you'll learn wheelies quicker.

    Of course this is all based on learning on private property at your own risk wearing full safety gear with an instructor and ambulance standing by...
  13. But of course!!!
  14. dude just keep practicing what you are doing. stick with the clutch - don't bother with power wheelies or pulling the bars or any other mumbo jumbo. a sit down wheelie is a direct effect of engine output to the rear tyre causing the front to lift.

    your technique looks to be ok. i would try starting them from a lower speed (60kph) with a decent rear tyre at around 25psi. if you are still getting wheel spin, slow down your clutch action a fraction. for example if you get wheel spin when dropping the clutch at 9k, try clutching so that the clutch just hits friction point at 8k but as the rest of the clutch lever is released (ie getting full grip on the plates), you are accelerating past 9k. it's simpler than it sounds, just slow down the clutch release a tad. same deal for wet weather wheelies.

    once you can clutch it up to a consistent height 100% of the time, you can work on getting more height. remember that balance point is approximately when your forks are level to the ground. so if your forks are still pointing at the ground you have a looong way to go until your tail hits. even at balance point, your tail will be still quite far from touching the ground. trust me, when you start to try and scrape your tail you will release how far away it is. so don't fear height. bring it higher and higher.

    to learn rear brake, do some drills where all you do is clutch it up - and without reducing throttle, bring the front down with the back brake. repeat 1000 times. the rear brake is very powerful, it will easily overpower your engine enough to drop the front. trust in it. make friends with your rear brake. write it love letters when it saves you. because that is the secret to wheelies.

    hit me up if you ever want some more tips.
  15. Heh, still remember the first time I did dump-the-clutch wheelies, worked well until I hit a pothole on a dirt road at about 30 degrees, no better way to end up watching the bike skate on it's tail before it crashed on the bars. And when I picked it up, it was fine (only sans tailight!) :LOL:

    Damn I miss that chookie.
  16. Just got my L's... you guys are f$%^ing crazy! :cool: Don't know if I would ever have the balls to attempt something like this... Sounds awesome though - post a vid!
  17. The only thing I have to add to Nam's excellent response there is that tyres are more likely to spin up than grip when they're cold. You might find your first two wheelies of a cool morning slip, and you're right after that. Then again, your bike has a shitload of power, which changes the rules a bit.

    If you spin it up in first gear and manage the throttle right, you can get it to wheelie up out of that wheelspin - and then you instantly feel like King Dingaling.
  18. The wheel spin is from not enough weight at the back combined with revs to high.

    Its a 1000cc kwaka, you should be able to just power up from first gear, ie, hold the throttle open till the front wheel snaps up. If it not coming, just slip the clutch, not heaps, just a quick on off slip with the fingers, it'll be enough to send her skywards.

    Aggressive shifts from first to second should do it too.
    Ie, ride first gear to the rev limiter and use a quick cluthc to pop second gear with the throttle still open. This will come up a bit faster though, so just practice changing gears faster with quick clutch action, until you feel it start to get light on the front end in the gear change. Then you will know you are getting close.

    2nd gear clutch ups are the same as first gear, but you need a few more revs. The trick is not to pull the clutch in and try and set the revs to a steady 6k and then dump it though. That just bogs down the motor. You want to clutch pop under acceleration so the engine has the momentum of the climbing revs bhp and torque when you hit the mark you want.

    So accelerate in 2nd gear towards 7krpm. as your dial gets to 6krpm, you pop the clutch in and out as fast as you can with your fingers, while at the same time opening the throttle just a little bit wider, so as the clutch dumps, the engine will be accelerating through 7krpm and there will be increasing momentum on your flywheel, this should give you a nice smooth lift of the front end. If it comes up too fast for you to feel comfortable, pop the clutch at lower revs, eg. 5k approaching 6k.

    If it comes up too slowly, dont pop it at higher revs, cos the increase in upwardly mobile is exponential once you start to hit powerband, and you will do more burnouts. Instead, you want to feed it a little more throttle so it is revving a little higher at the end of the clutch pop. This should give you a few methods for finding a comfortable amount of lift for what you are wanting to do.

    Burnouts on purpose, scare the shit out of me, but pick a speed, 40-50 kph is normally nice, lean forwards, standing on the pegs can help, pull the clutch in, apply just a smidge of front brake to make the nose drop, whilst opening the throttle to bring the revs up. So your clutch is in, your nose is dropping your weight is forwards your revs are high, then you drop the clutch out, at the moment when the nose is diving. This takes the weight off the rear wheel, and it should spin like a mofo when the clutch drops. Way too aggressive of a trick for me to want to practice, and it scares my balls up into my nose. Also, dont use deflated tyres, they are too grippy and may throw you off the back of the bike when it flips.

    Even wheelies, granted I ride a VTR1000, but I still run normal 40 psi in the rear, and it wheelies just fine. Well, REAL fine.
  19. When I had the RF900R I could take off from lights hard and hold first until 8000rpm and the front would lift on its own (thats right officer :LOL: ) Frightened the sh!t out of me the first time I accidently did it :shock:

    I dont see why you need to clutch up a 10.