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My VN250 Eliminator – max RPM and chain worries.

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by GunSlingerAU, May 3, 2008.

  1. Hey guys

    I’ve been riding the new bike for a couple of weeks now, and am absolutely loving it. Can't wait to go on the learner's ride in a few weeks! It’s my first bike, and as a result a couple of new questions have sprung up regarding the RPMs and chain:

    1.) I’m worried that I’m over revving it. It’s got 2000km on the clock, so it’s out of the break-in zone, but for the first week I took it pretty easy on the throttle. As a result I found the performance fairly lacklustre. However, in my second week, I started to really push the RPMs and to my surprise found that it’s got decent power when the high RPMs really kick in. But how do I know when I’m pushing it too high? To get this nice boost of power, the RPMs seem to be really screaming – but is it just that I’m not used to the high RPMs of a bike?

    2.) I finally got the owner’s manual. Let it be said that I’m not the world’s most experienced mechanic. In fact, I’ve never even done an oil change. I checked all the levels on the bike (oil, brake fluid, coolant) and then checked the slack on the chain. Uh oh – it’s got about 45mm of play, which is apparently too much. But reading the instructions to tighten the chain seemed a bit too hardcore for me – is it within the realms of a non-mechanic, using only the tools included with the bike, to tighten the chain? The first part of the instructions seemed fine, but then it mentioned things like the string method and checking the drum brakes, and I was lost!

    Hope you guys can help with some basic info!
  2. Hi. I'm just about to hit my 7k service on my bike.

    1) Don't worry so much about overrevving it. You're perhaps thinking about the sound of the engine at 110km/hr on a highway? That's perfectly fine. I never really go full throttle though, given that it's a cruiser and a V-twin, probably optimised for low-down torque. :)

    2) I need to adjust my chain slack too. I'd be fine doing if it wasn't a drum brake but disc, but I'm a bit of a chicken and unsure how to deal with the bar leading back to the drum. There's a fair bit of dirt at the connecting points, or maybe its grease. I suppose I'm interested in this as well.
  3. because its a 250... you'll have to rev the crap out of the little bugger to get ti going haah
  4. you should be able to tighten the chain, do a sreach in the maintenance section, i have no doubt there will be info in here on the chain.. as for drum brake problem.. thats a newy for me.. might be just a case of a couple of turns of the rod to relax the rear brake so its not applied the whole time your riding, again, it is probably something on here that can help you out.

    as for the revs, most bikes have a soft limiter, so when you hit it you dont get piffed off the bike, so dont feel that if you are going to blow your engine up, limiters area safety measure, so are pretty conservative most of the time. personally, im a believer of not flogging a bike whilst its running in, so id be changing fairly early, but not stupidly early so im getting overtaken by pushbikes..
  5. Ah, I remember drum brakes.

    Press rear brake pedal down and make a mental note of the travel.

    Loosen the large nut on the rear of the rod to the brake, 5-6 turns should do it.

    Move rear wheel back to tension chain. Make sure to keep the turns on the adjusters even.

    Tighten rear wheel in new position.

    Now, turn adjuster nut on rear brake back in until pedal travel is the same as it was.

    Job done....No drama.