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My rear wheel/driveline sounds like crap

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by kols_kebabs, Sep 5, 2006.

  1. I was going for a cruise today, just accelerating mildly down the mainroad, when suddenly there was a massive crack noise from somewhere around my rear wheel. Very scary sounding.
    I rode her home gently afterwards, but a bad thrashing noise is evident from somewhere around the rear wheel when you're cruising now. Still rides fine, so its not inhibiting performance or handling.

    I initially thought perhaps one or more of the rear sprocket teeth had broken, but all the teeth are smooth and unbroken. Rear brake still works as usual. Gearbox is fine. The rear shock has no noticeable changes.

    What could it be? Sucks, because I'm trying to sell this bike- a couple of hundred $ gone if its a problem.

  2. Wheel bearing alert!

    Don't ride it anywhere, take off the rear wheel and take the bearings out. This has happened to me twice. Once I caught it early, they had rusted out and were in a shocking state after only 10,000k.

    The other time I didn't catch it and my rear wheel cracked just outside Moe. That was fcuking expensive.

    The bearings themselves don't cost too much, it won't be an expensive fix if that's the problem, and the symptoms sound about right.
  3. Oh, and if the bearing has corroded, it might be very difficult to remove. If this is the case, take the whole wheel down to a mechanic, the last thing you want to do is damage the rim.
  4. I suspected bearing might be the case.

    Removing the rear-wheel is a bit too much of a chore for me, no idea what I'm doing and no equipment- I might risk the 10k ride to the mechanic.
  5. get a trailer, dont ride it. :shock:
  6. +1 to both the above, you've got a serious problem already, aggravating into a really expensive one is just plain silly.

    If you bike dealer won't trailer it to his place, maybe one of your local Netriders can.
  7. rear wheel removal is very easy. learn to do it for yourself. it will be less hassle then bearing seizure or getting a trailer, or getting it picked up.

    just remember the order of the washers and spacers. then slip them back on the axle bolt in the same way so that you cannot forget.
  8. Just spoke to dad, owner of Mazda Bravo ute. He was coming to town tomorrow anyway, and he was happy to help us shift the bike.

    Easy as...
    Considering how down you guys are on the idea of riding it, I'm glad I made it home at all.
    I'm sure it's reasonable, and I would consider learning, but I don't have a centerstand or a race stand. Makes the proposition fairly impossible I presume...
  9. Car jack under the middle will do the trick.
  10. Got 2 milk crates?
    Or two old HiFi speakers?
    I personally use speakers for my rear stand, and use a (or 2) car jacks for my front stand. Rear wheel removal is as easy as tensioning your chain - and thats something every rider needs to be able to do.
  11. So Koma, do you also use the speakers when tuning your bike......?

  12. you know, i always use straps to an overhead beam, handlebars and rear....then milk crate for safety.
    no fancy lifty things in the bush :LOL: :LOL:
  13. Yep, I'd say the crack you heard was a bearing un-seizeing itself. if it's a bearing then rideing it further can "seize and spin" the bearing.

    Spun bearings can render a wheel useless as it chews up your mag from the inside. Chances of the wheel locking up while rideing are pretty good as well.

    It's the same principle as rebuilding an engine to find you have no oil pressure, give it a few revs to see if it fixs the problem. Once you suspect there could be a serious problem, don't risk running it to possibly do more damage.

    I doubt you damaged the pinion or crown wheel (it's a shaft drive right?) as it should be very noticeable if this was the case. It's possible just a tooth was chiped, you'd find the chip by draining the oil and maybe feel around inside the drain/bung. DO NOT TURN WHEEL WITH YOUR FINGER IN THERE. (if you do, post on the pain)

    There are also bearings for the shaft/uni and these should be checked as well.

    Get the rear wheel up with the bike in neutral and start spinning, though there will be some drag stopping the wheel from free-spinning easily. There should be absolutely no unusual "tight/clicky" spots while turning.

    You should look into self-maintanance as the bearings alone will only cost about $20 or less, I'd expect a shop to repair it for no less than $100.
  14. I called the mechanic today. He told me the problem is actually some part securing the chain has come off, and the chain was basically just slapping against the swingarm.
    I probally should have lubricated the chain some time between when I bought the bike 8 months ago and now... :-w
    He rattled off a whole list of new parts it needs- apparently the main bit is $160! One of the parts it needs isn't even available anymore, but he said he'd make it up himself.
    I've tentatively sold the bike- hopefully I can get rid of this money pit.