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{Moved from General} supermotard to trail conversion

Discussion in 'Supermoto' at netrider.net.au started by OG, Apr 3, 2013.

  1. General query, what would be involved in the conversion \ what level of difficulty would this be?

    for example if i had a DRZ400SM and wanted to be able to convert it for off road use how difficult would it be .

    set of wheels change in essence , as the wheels are a different size how would one re calibrate the spedo?

    Im mostly after what would need to be done , and if anything would be more difficult than a backyard job

    considering a bike i would like to use for both, on road 90% of the time but would like the ability to take it off road when i please
  2. #2 bluer6, Apr 3, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
    drz S or E type wheels. (dirt wheels)

    drz S or E type speedo gear (black roundish thing that the speedo cable runs down to next to the front wheel)or upgrade to a trailtech vapour ($150 but a huge improvement and you will never have to worry about snapping speedo cables like i always used to before i got on)

    sprockets and chain

    Spare 320mm rotor(not a must have but will make swapping easier and quicker)
    you cant run the smaller dirt rotors without swapping forks or atleast one of the lowers

    what level of difficulty would this be? easy if you have some tools and a little bit of mechanical experience

    Is it worth it? no, unless the drz is modded (fcr carb, decent full exhaust and maybe even a big bore) i wouldnt bother better to sell and buy an E model(higher compression/fcr and a few other things standard) and pick a set of motard wheels.
  3. This may not be exactly the same, but for whatever it's worth here goes.

    I have a Honda CRF450X dirtbike with full road reg, meaning head/tail lights, indicators, mirrors and 21"/18" front/rear wheels with knobby tyres.

    I also have a set of 17" front and rear wheels fitted with road tyres, front wheel fitted with oversize 320mm brake disk, rear wheel fitted with different ( smaller than standard ) rear sprocket on a cush drive hub and standard size brake disk, second front sprocket, and a second chain. This is a much nicer combination to ride with for on-road.

    To change from dirt setup to on-road takes about 45 mins, and involves the follwing steps:

    Remove front wheel, unbolt brake caliper from fork leg, change caliper mounting bracket ( to match caliper to oversize disk ), refit caliper to fork, install 17" front wheel.

    Remove chain, remove rear wheel, change front sprocket ( one tooth bigger ), install 17" wheel, fit and adjust alternative chain.

    Refit mirrors, taillight/rear indicators/numberplate ( removed because they get broken off in the bush )

    Recalibrate electronic speedo to cater for difference in wheel/tyre circumference,

    Alter front fork/rear shock clickers.

    All up takes about 3/4 - 1 hr without rushing.

    Expensive? Well yes, a bit, road wheels and tyres cost the most.

    Is it worth it? Hell yeah! :riding: Lots of fun on the twisties, surprises alot of sportbike riders. Not very comfortable for long distance, but straight bits are boring anyway.

    Happy to answer any other questions you may have.

    Ross. :)
  4. Also, on some bikes the suspension may have less travel, and have slightly stiffer spring rates as well as slightly firmer damping as noted above. No real biggie for trail riding though. In fact, being a bit closer to the ground may be a bit of an advantage if you're learning:)
  5. The 400e has a bigger carb than the 400sm so you would be better off going the other way maybe.
  6. many thanks
  7. Leave it as is and hit the bush anyway...

    Kobo :cool: