Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Mounting Ignition under the seat hump - how would you do it?

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by QuarterWit, Jul 20, 2009.

  1. Hey everybody!

    After managing to kill a bullet-proof engine I've now got the bare frame sitting at my girlfriends house, and I've decided to start work on cleaning up a few things I've never been happy with. One is the headlight/gauge stuff.

    In the never-ending quest to get sleeker lines for my SR, I'm looking at mounting the ignition unit under the seat hump. There's a few pros and cons of mounting it here, but I figure it should be okay. The guy that I wanted to get to do this for me is building a power station in the Pilbara, and I can't be bothered waiting two months - and I want to have a shot at it first. At least it doesn't have to be neat to work.

    After a few smokes and a bit of thought I figure I'd chuck this over to the much more intelligent, wordly and mechanically-minded people on the forum.

    So here's the bike...


    And my bike's bottom...


    Alright, so this bad boy, which weighs around 500-750g...



    Shall be inserted here...




    So it sits roughly thus...



    I'm thinking of mounting a plate there, or running a bracket up from the holes that you see unoccupied on either side of the frame.

    BUT, here's the kicker! I'm doing it in my girlfriends house, with no bench, no welder or anything like that. But I am pretty good at the brute force side of things.

    So, if this was your bike, what would you do and how would you mount it? Any ideas are appreciated!

  2. Keep this up much longer and you'll be left with a bicycle!

    Does your seat hinge? Doesn't look like it from the photos, but perhaps you could adapt the hardware from the original seat or some other bike at the wreckers.

    If you could have the seat hinge to the side, to reveal the ignition unit facing in the opposite direction to what you have shown that would be cool. Make a weather shield to stop muck from the rear wheel.
    You would need a latch on the seat that doesn't require the key, obviously.

    If you are planning on just reaching underneath the seat for access, I'd be concerned about the amount of road grime/dirt/water it was exposed to. Perhaps, given the total lack of any sort of wheel covering, you are not! If that's the case, then a simple bracket sounds ok.

    PS: What did you do to the engine? Or is it too painful to talk about...
  3. First thing I'd do is get a MUCH smaller keyswitch. You don't need the
    immobiliser reciever on it, and you don't need the steering lock bit
    either. Once you've done that, you could fit it easily almost anywhere.
  4. Ditch the switch all together and "hide" 2 toggle switches somewhere. That'd be different :wink:
  5. Well, I pinched a valve guide, which cracked it and hammered the head to peices! A few things contributed to it, I reckon. Too-lean jetting and doing some bloody long trips at high revs wouldn't have helped. Now it's getting a new cam, hi-comp piston, 39mm Keihin, muffler and ported to buggery. So it should be fun when she's back!

    I didn't think of the seat hinge idea. It currently mounts with two bolts through the holes at the rear and tightened under that...

    The idea was just to reach under the seat to turn it on/off.

    Hotcam, forgive me for being an electrical numpty, don't you need the key/chip arrangement to work?

    If I can just bugger the thing off, I'd be pretty happy fitting a WW2 bomber-style on/off toggle switch.

  6. Nice looking SR.

    All of the above are good ideas to me, you could also go H-D style, mount it under the carby on the left side.
  7. next time i see your bike out and about... im going to ride up behind you and turn it off or steal your key... depending on how cheeky im feeling at the time
  8. You could get rid of the key altogether and go to a keyless system. That way the fob can stay in your pocket and everything else stays hidden.
  9. I thought your bike was an 1980's classic one, but now I look
    at your info I see it's a 2004 model.
    If that's the original immobilizer-keyswitch for the bike, yes you
    are right, you MUST keep it in order for the ignition
    computer to work. You might be able to remove
    the steering lock part from it to save some weight and bulk, but you
    will need to keep the electronics.

    That's a nice modern retro bike btw.
  10. yeah do that. or steal the prox key system off a harley
  11. The moment my Rudd money comes I’m off to buy a grey import SR400 engine to put in my ’78 SR500 – so this is something I should be aware of? Or provided I hook it up to my ‘78 ignition system (could even use my ’78 engines stator if it fits, which it most likely does), I would be fine (I have absolutely no idea about this stuff).

    You forgot to add, not only the open pipe but the 500 crank and (I assume?) rebore (or is it the piston which is allowing 20cc more?), out to a whopping 520cc!
  12. Haha, something like that!

    Matt, the immobilizer was only on '03 or '04 models onwards, I think!