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Motorcycle chains

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Nooky, Apr 15, 2010.

  1. Hi, I need a new chain for my Ninja 250R.



    I’ve been looking at RK chains but not sure which one to buy.

    I know the 08+ 250R use 520 pitch – 106 link chains.

    RK make the following chain series:
    SO - rated for street bikes up to 400cc
    XSO - rated for street bikes up to 750cc
    GXW - rated for street bike up to 1000cc.

    DID chains with similar max bike cc rating are also an option.

    I know its overkill but can I use GXW (or similar Superbike rated) chains on the little 250?

    Is there much of a weight difference? The price difference is acceptable.

    It will be matched with new OEM sprockets.

    I just want chains and sprockets that will last the longest with proper maintenance.
     
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  2. I'm not sure what the letter codes mean (cbf looking it up).. but you'll probably want either an X-ring or U-ring type chain

    Basically just a fancy style of O-ring that makes it last longer.

    In store one of them should set you back about $120 ish..



    -
    Chris
     
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  3. Thanks.
    The letters are not important. They are just product codes.
    SO = O ring
    XSO = X ring
    GXW = XW ring


    It’s probably a simple question but I just want to know if the high rated (1000cc+) performance chains are suitable for low powered a 250cc bikes.

    Edit: after some more research I think they are compatible. Just need some confirmation before making an order.
     
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  4. I think that'd be an overkill.
    Provided you take care and maintain your chain I don't see why it wouldn't last a fair while.
     
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  5. meh,i just get whatever is cheap and replace them yearly (or there abouts) i cbf with all the toothbrush cleaning b/s some of you blokes do
     
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  6. Peter Stevens have DID X-ring 520's on sale at the moment for $99.

    Too bad the 525's are "between $200 & $300", Bastards.

    I normally wouldn't recommend that particular shop, but their spare department is ok sometimes.
     
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  7. Yeah, it probably overkill but I’m thinking that it would be cheaper in the long run. I don’t want to replace chains and sprockets every ~15,000km even though I lube it every ~1000km or after a ride in the rain. I think the stock chain is a non 0-ring chain and I may have not used enough lube or something.

    I'm also getting charged around $150 for labour to install new chains + sprockets and tyres.

    Thanks for the feedback guys.
     
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  8. heavier/chain for higher powered bikes would take more effort to turn, effort that the 250 has at a premium and i would say it is noticeable.

    it would be like having a heavier flywheel to an extent, obviously only when riding, not stationary. i know i could notice the difference in performance of the stock chain (non o ring) on my mx bike to a did x ring chain. it was obvious the extra resistance when you turned the wheel by hand.

    but it lasted significantly longer than the stocker.
     
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  9. The chains for 1000cc bikes are heavier to provide strength. That does not necessarily translate to longer life on a 250. The main thing affecting service life is maintenance (get a Scott Oiler)

    Any quality chain suitable for your bike, looked after will give long service life.
     
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  10. Yeah, good point, I was concern about the weight. I wasn’t sure if there was much weight difference or they just use better quality metal with the stronger chains.

    I read that you should buy a good quality chain and not skimp on it on some other threads. I guess I kind of went overboard.

    Edit:
    Maybe a chain like the one below would be ideal but would it have a shorter service life?

    RK Chain 520KZU
    “This is a unique U-RING chain featuring a ‘flat’ section seal to reduce weight and width. It is the lightest and narrowest sealed chain available and specifically suited to moto-x and road racing use or where bikes have a problem accepting the greater width of normal sealed chain. Although rated to 500cc, for the best results it’s more suited to the latest four stroke 250cc or similar horsepower bikes”
     
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  11. --Well Don't I feel bloody Miserable--

    I was just replacing my chain, its a black rk mvzx 520 on my gsxr750. Its a 120 link chain. I changed the sprockets as well.

    Anyway I was cutting the chain to the stock 116 links. I was counting the inside thinking they were the links and the outsides were side plates.
    It turns out I ended cutting it WAY too short.

    I must have still been in shock by my stupidity and decided join the master link and a single link together and I still came up short! FARKEN!!

    I feel so depressed now. lol
    What options do have?
    I was thinking of buying 2 more masterlinks and joining the remaining links. But I'm not actually thinking. Just reacting. So any ideas would help.

    also how much torque should I use to peen (lock) the masterlinks?
    thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

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  12. My Honda VFR manual states: "Diameter of staked area: 5.55 - 5.85mm"
     
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  13. You can buy a half link fit in there, It Depends on wether Its a Peened soft link or a clip link, On a 250 a clip link will do, on a 1000 you need a peened over soft link, a clip link is not strong enough and will self destruct on a 1000 cc Bike, Make sure your wheel is fully forward in the slots on the swing arm, it will hang down heaps but it will tighten up with a couple of turns on the adjusters, Allow the slack to be loose enough when you sit on it,
    The chain will tighten as the swing arm comes up with your weight on the bike,
     
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  14. I've ended up buy an extra 2 master links from p/s. Still 520 but side plates are slightly smaller.
    I can't begin to explain what I was thinking at the time but now there are a total of 3 master links.
    Would that be bad for the bike?. Would it be unbalanced? Similar to having unbalanced wheels?
    Took it for a test ride and all seems well at suburban speeds.
    Probably will end up buying another chain just to be on the safe side.
     
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  15. Dude,

    The pitch and width of the chain has to match the sprockets. Without spending outrageous amounts; original equipment is virtualy as good as it gets. The lighter the chain the better!
     
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  16. my chain is oversized due to me not checking what was supplied before fitting it(Lesson learnt) Sure The mechanic says it'll last virtually forever, but you can feel the difference it makes, especially when the bikes cold. Extra strain on the bike, may not be much but it's noticeable
     
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  17. No you'll be fine. My chain has two master links because I forgot to account for the bigger rear sprocket when I cut the chain to length.

    It's got about 10K on it now, no problems.
     
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  18. count twice, cut once....

    yep just get another joiner link from the bike shop
     
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  19. I don't get it. Don't all 520 chains have the same Inside Width of 6.35mm? So if my bike came with 520 pitch -106 link chains I can replace it with any other chain that has the same pitch isn't it?

    I'm not sure if I would say my OEM non-seal chain is better than a x-ring chain...


    What do you mean by "oversized"? Did you buy the chain with the correct pitch?
     
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