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More chain questiopns

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Drew, Sep 5, 2006.

  1. Well i htink it's about time i had a look at starting the maintenance on the new bike.

    so how do i tell an o-ring chain from a non o-ring chain... other than saying it has o-rings??

    should lube about every 1000Km right??

    going to try and get to my local bike shop and see what they've got.

    might have a chat to them about service costs etc while i'm at it.
  2. Just a note on chain lubing, you can never lube your chain enough, I would suggest every 500kms also there is this lube called Matul Factory Line, it is my choice of product.
  3. Yep thats what i was going to look for.

    thats a degreaser and lube in one package right??

    any idea how much it is roughly??
  4. An O ring chain does not benefit from constant lubing as the lubricant is contained within the rollers. Lubing the chain in this instance just smoothes the chains movement onto the sprocket and also provents corrosion. Over lubing is a waste of a very expensive product and is more likely to adorn your rim and tyre than the chain.

    Non O ring chains do require more frequent lubrication, but most chains are now of the O ring type.

    Lube your chain more frequently in wet conditions (such as after a run in the wet) and also regularly clean your chain. Do a search on chain cleaning methods, you'll find an assortment of different ways. Don't ask for a definitive as everyone has their own personal fave.

    I use Motorex chain cleaner (about $18) which litterally washes grime and crap out of the chain. Doing this regularly means my Blade is still on the original chain (with heaps of adjustment left) at 23k. I then use Motorex chain lube which really doesn't fly off. But there are lots of other really good brands that do the same.

    Lastly, try to make sure you lube your chain after a run. The chain is warm and this allows greater penetration of lube (for non O ring chains) into the rollers as well as ensuring the solvent used to transport the lubricant evaporates. This helps reduce 'fling' which mucks up those nice clean rims of yours.
  5. Most people suggest cleaning and lubing your chain every 500kms, or every two full tanks of petrol.

    Others will say if the chain is still clean (greatly affected by where you ride and what lube you use) after a couple hundred kilometers then just give it another spray of lube and not worry about cleaning it until next time.

    My advice is to stay away from PJ1 Blue chain lube. You waste so much because its so watery and seemed to attract dirt. Just switched to the BelRay (Superclean?) chain lube and after a few hundred kilometers its still dirt free, also goes on much easier.
  6. well when i got he bike inspected i was told it's got about 50% life left in the chain.

    just can't recall if was o ring...

    weant to do and oi; change as well .... just got to work out how to hold the bike upright....no centre stand.

    it's got fancy brakes though. Sintered sound about right?
  7. It will most likely be an o-ring chain. Most chain lubricants on the market are either made specifically for o-ring chains or can be used on both o-ring and non o-ring chains.

    As for changing the oil, go for a nice long ride to heat the oil up. Whack something underneath to catch the oil then take out the sump plug. Then simply sit on the bike and support it upright to help the oil drain out, you can then also lean it from side to side to help get the remaining oil out.
  8. guess i need to read the warkshop maual bits on oil changes then.... never had to work on an engine with the filter in the sump before.

    thanks for the tips though...
  9. I was told by a bike mechanic to lube every 300 to 600KM's. Your chain can suffer some damage if its not lubed properly. I wrecked the chain that came with the bike by not lubing it. I remember wondering what that chain rattling sound was when I was riding. I wont make that mistake again!
  10. drew, taking the filter out of your bike is easy, if its the saem as the VTr which it should be, youll need a 16mm socket (from memory) unscrew the filter housing bolt and the whole thing comes out. easy.
  11. Just have a container ready to catch the oil though right :)

    thanks.... i'll be off to the shop on Saturday to get things like filters, lube etc
  12. If you are changing the filter it is better (if it's the same as the VTR) to drain the oil out of the sump plug hole first, then once that's all gone, take the filter out.
  13. I haven't had a good look down there yet... didn't know it was separate. but yeah draining it first is better.

  14. oops sorry forgot to mention that. yeah cleaning up oil off the ground isnt fun
  15. yeah i know... especially when you forget to replace the sump plug. Did that on my corolla once. Only once though