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Mineral, semi or full synthetic oil?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by twr7cx, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. I'm looking for a recomendation on what oil for my 2000 Honda XR250R - I don't know what the previous owner was running in it.
    Now my choice is from 3 Castrol products, the first is the mineral Active 4T, second is the semi-synthetic GPS and the third is the full synthetic R4 Superbike.
    Price between the products is irrelevent for this (but if anyone cares it seems the semi-synthetic is the most expensive, then the full-synthetic, then mineral is the cheapest - strange, I thought full would be the most expensive). All three are listed in the Castrol book for this bike.
    So which to go with?
    I've had 1 person express concern about using the full synthetic R4 Superbike in it as they reckon it will probably burn a bit of it or something due to the type of riding in the bush.

  2. There was a thread here recently that debated oil. If castrol recon you can get away with a full synthetic, then go and get some mobil 1 or similar. Same shit, just cheaper then the bike specific stuff. I'm trying Nulon at the moment.

    Basically it's fine to use fully synthetic oil in latter model bikes.

    If anything a motor should use less fully synthetic, as it doesn't break down in it's latter life like mineral oils can. That's when you burn oil.
  3. Older bikes tend to use Mineral or semi synpthetic, where as newer bikes now run on fully sythetic.

    there are expections but.

  4. How many km's on the bike but i would go semi synth def not fully not needed on a 250...
  5. If it meets the manufacturers specifications (eg SG Grade or whatever) then it's good enough, even if it's $5 supercheap nasty stuff.

    Any aircooled bike I have a very simple principle - synthetic is a total and utter waste of money. 'Nuff said.
  6. Do a search - there's quite a few discussions on oil types, degradation rates, etc. Generally it was found Mobil 1 (car) was one of the best oils around for bikes, even better than some specialised bike oils. That said, some bikes don't play so well with full-synth, and suffer some clutch slipping or rough gear changes.


    Personally been using Motul 5100 (semi) on the ZX9R. Tried a full-synth: great for the first 1500km, then degraded very quickly after that. Ended up with missed shifts, false neutrals and a generally not nice gearbox. Back to 5100 - clunkier, but consistent and longer lasting.
  7. why? surely the oil is working much harder over more varied temperature in an air cooled bike. If I was going to pick oil based on the way the engine was cooled I'd say the complete opposite.
  8. i always ran semi syn in all the trail bikes i had(XR's, TTR, KTM's, DRZ's, VOR, etc), but in reality it probably didnt make a lot of diference as i change trail bike oil every 500k, sooner if i take it for a swim.
  9. i read somewhere that bike gains more hp as you get more synthetic.

    so mineral = 0
    semi +2
    synth +5

  10. (Cough)rubish(cough)
  11. Hell no. Some cheap oil on the market is actually recycled oil - and although it may make the requirements for viscosity and has been filtered a lot of foreign material usually still remains. Not only is this material too fine too be filtered in many cases it's also significantly harder than the engine parts and can cause serious wear. I've seen what can be found in cheap oil and I've seen what it can do - personally I wouldn't even use it if it was free.
    Synthetic oils are generally going to be cleaner and more consistent than mineral (ie they don't change viscosity over time). So assuming the same oil/filter change intervals running synthetic should make the engine last longer - of course the flipside to this is that sometimes running a cheaper mineral oil, and changing it more often, can be better.
  12. Ya huh. I also read somewhere that speed cameras were all about safety. :roll: :p

  13. Sorry but i disagree, even at say $10 per liter for oil.
    Say 3 liters per oil change (for a 250 dirt bike) changed every 500k, thats 0.06c per k for oil, fuel cost is 0.4c per k! and oil is the blood of your engine, NEVER skimp on oil.

    AND the fact that an engine is air cooled WTF has that got to do with it???
  14. it was a bmw owner site which compared the mineral -> syn from motul
    all i can remember is the semi was 5100 motul
  15. I have seen dyno tests showing a power increase in switching from mineral to syntethic - the important thing though is that the oils usually aren't exactly the same viscosity range (ie testing a 10W-40 mineral against a 5W-30 synthetic). So although the power gains may be real the real question is whether the engine still has the same level of protection against wear (or whether the owner cares ;)).
  16. AC bikes rely more on the oil taking away at least some of the heat from the cylinders. But i still wouldn't say that mineral is completely better to use. Manufacturers recommendations, at the highest grade possible ftw!
  17. Yeah the $5 cheap oil is utter crap. It is loaded up with so many additives to make the grade its not funny. The base stock of the $5 cheap stuff is very nasty indeed.
  18. Granted, may be. And by that logic you would use a BETTER oil, not a cheaper one as Slow Ssuzy sugested.