Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Methods to Clean Air Filter...

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Zealous, May 11, 2009.

  1. New one cost $50.00 and my current one is only 1500kmz old therefore any ideas for cleaning an air filter except a blower... I'm considering rubbing alcohol...

    Thanks...



    Also I have recently purchased a maintenance free battery and was wondering whether it requires charging before putting it into the bike?

    - Zealous
     
     Top
  2. Battery should be fine if new. If your worried hook a multimeter up to it and check voltage
     
     Top
  3. Hey man, I'm no expert, don't even know what your filter looks like, but i'll tell you what I did (round foam filter) (reccomended to me by another rider, I don't know if its the right way, but worked for me) ok I pulled the filter off (rmx250) took the basket thing out of the middle, then got an icecream bucket, put about 3cm worth of kerosine in there, soaked the filter, then squeezed it to get asmuch kero as i could out of it. Then got rid of the dirty kero, cleaned the container, and did this about 5 times until the filter looked great, and the kero wasnt getting dirty/grit in it.

    Squeezed as hard as I could to get rid of asmuch crap as I could, without wringing it, and got a bottle of filter oil, chucked a bit at the bottom of the same icecream container after i'd cleaned it again, and squeezed the oil in until it was all covered, waited the 10mins as per direction on the bottle, then squeezed asmuch oil out as I could, I was told that the amount of oil that wouldnt come out, was the amount that you're meant to leave in the filter.

    Hopefully this gets you out of trouble mate.
     
     Top
  4. sounds good to me, i'll give it a shot...

    thanks for the info guys :)
     
     Top
  5. What kind of air filter? Paper one, not really, if it's a foam filter, easy. Soak in petrol (or kero), dry, re-oil. Don't forget to re-oil. If you're worried about the kero or petrol wrecking the filter you can get proper cleaning fluid.
     
     Top
  6. it's paper... like a hard card type material... well umm maybe replace the paper with some other type of paper? any ideas? maybe scientific lab type filter paper?

    bludy $50.00 is a rip off... i've been trying to find an generic filter but no luck
     
     Top
  7. Why are you replacing it after only 1500km? My Honda air filters are scheduled for cleaning only for the first 36,000km and replacement is only suggested if they become too dirty to clean.

    Paper filters can be cleaned by vacuuming them clean from the outside, or using the vac on blow instead of suck and cleaning them from the inside. Banging it on the bench just gets the dust in motion and can leave it on the inside, ready for the engine to breathe it in.

    In reality, most roadbike engines aren't exposed to much dust in normal use, hence Honda's view that unless you ride in dirt and dust, clean the filter every 18,000km.

    Cheers,
     
     Top
  8. Perhaps try an aftermarket re-usable filter? Double the price but you'll get much better value from it.

    BBman - depends on what conditions you ride in, if you ride through winter and summer you'll find that the air filter will probably get very dirty. Considering a dirty air filter will suck the performance out of an engine it's not a bad idea to keep an eye on it.
     
     Top
  9. I ride year-round and the air filters in both my previous BMW and current Honda have not needed replacing; just cleaning. I check them as part of the 6000km service and usually give them a blow-out, but I have never detected in 40 years of road bikes, well, except the first British bikes I had, which had no filters at all :shock:, that the air filter has become particularly dirty (to the point of becoming clogged).

    On my off-roaders however...

    But my question to the OP still stands; why the need to replace after just 1500km?
     
     Top
  10. Ah whenever I do a service I usually replace all filters, oils etc but the filter is too much $$ for me right now....

    I usually complete a service every 6 months or 1500kms... which ever comes first.
     
     Top
  11. I see. Good on you for the commitment to servicing but maybe you're burning cash you don't need to. I'd say don't change anything but the oil on those 1500km intervals.

    The oil filter can stay for the full 5000-6000 (whichever your bike is) as can the air filter, which then gets a clean. I've decided that Honda knows more about my engine than I do and the filter stays for the recommended 12,000, though I change the oil every 6000km. The time-related issue in the six months/XXXXkm equation is that the oil can go a bit feral over time (due to condensation mostly), especially if the bike isn't used much.

    What sort of bike and what is the manufacturer-recommended service schedule? There are reports galore around the web of people who have serviced their bikes by the book using reputable but inexpensive oils that have happily clocked up 150,000km-plus with no engine issues.

    Just my opinion, of course, but my bikes last very well.
     
     Top
  12. Yamaha FZX250 Zeal (1992) 3YX2.

    Owner's Manual recommends oil change every 6000kms or six months (whichever comes first), and the same for cleaning the air filter. States replace air filter if required.

    So maybe just a blow gun (compressor) to clean any dirt from the filter and a change of oil is sufficient?

    Thank you for helping btw.

    Also, how many k's do 250s usually last until they die (if properly maintained)? Mine has 42,000kz on the clock.
     
     Top
  13. Glad to help any way I can. Sorry if I came across a bit preachy to begin with.

    If you're not doing many kilometres then I'd change the oil at six months and do the filter every 12. Even that might be well short of the 6000km interval but it could help the engine last a long time.

    I never use full compressor power to blow out a filter; it can shred the paper fibres. A vacuum cleaner used as I described in a post above does the job (suck the dust of the outside, using a brush attachment, and reverse the flow to blow dust off the surface by carefully applying the air pressure to the inside). As the book says, if its hopelessly dirty, or oily from crankcase or rocker cover ventilation fumes, then you have no choice but to replace.

    Does it have a fuel filter? If left sitting for long periods the tank can get water condensate in it that never gets heated away having by a lovely warm engine underneath it. This gums up carbs (and rusts out the tank), so regular use and a good in-line fuel filter can eliminate the risk.

    The Zeal is a revvy little tyke but being a Yamaha means it's well made and many have lasted a long time in regular service. Not riding the bike can shorten its life faster than clocking up kilometres with the engine up to operating temp (short, cold runs are murder).

    With regular oil changes and all other maintenance taken care of, I see no reason why your engine, if in good nick now, shouldn't see 100-140,000km without major drama. Of course, you don't know how it was treated in the past, but most engines show crucial signs of wear and tear after a while. Revs don't kill an engine; bad oil, being thrashed cold, and lack of filter changes usually do more harm.

    You'll read a million opinions on oils; most do the job. The diesel oil option is cheap and effective, but I prefer Motul 5100 because it makes my gearbox smoother. I have no doubt that much cheaper oils would still protect the engine just fine.

    When are the valves due to be checked next? This is one job I give to a mechanic so I hope you have one you can trust. My bloke here in Brisbane is a gem, and is adamant that my CB13's engine will see 300,000km. Let's hope I do as well!

    Likewise, when was the coolant last changed? If you don't know, do it now, then once a year. Decent premixed radiator coolant from Supercheap is usually fine, unless your book says otherwise. Do you have a manual? Maybe there's one here http://www.myxmanuals.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=12

    I hope it all works out well. If you were a bit closer I'd give you a hand.

    Cheers.
     
     Top
  14. Tips for bike maintenance:

    1: Use good quality oil. Possibly the diesel mentioned in the 'controversy' thread. Just make sure that whatever you use, its half decent and meets or exceeds the standard for your particular bike. Its the life-blood of the machine so don't go skint on it. Change it at or before specified intervals, especially if often ridden hard.

    2: Ensure the coolant is up to scratch. 5L for around $25 gives you no excuse for not doing yearly flushes, although I'm sure 2 years would be fine for most. Periodically ensure that it is at the required level, and that hoses are not perishing.

    3: Brake fluid should be changed at or before the stated intervals. Yearly would be excellent. You don't want to find out that its cactus when you need it most (like I did). Keep an eye on pad wear and disk thickness, too.

    4: Oil filters should be changed after every oil change (no point recirculating the previous grunge), every second at most. Air filters will be affected heavily by usage conditions, I'd go a biannual clean at minimum. See if you can uprate your paper element to reusable/washable oiled element type. Try K&N or similar. Fuel filters I'd give a few years. Inspect visually every 12 months.

    5: If running carbies, give your bike a tuning check and/or retune every 6 months. It may help to note settings so you will be able to refer back to them and detect if they wander. A complete flush every year or two would be good.

    6: General lubing should be frequent, especially on crucial cables such as clutch and throttle. You lose these, you lose ridability. Ensure the chain gets regular attention as well, with frequent lubing and periodic adjustment to manufacturers specs.

    7: Electrical system is often overlooked. Carry a spare plug and fuses for the bike, a spare ignition fuse at bare minimum. Ensure all cables remain insulated and aren't in danger of overheating on hot parts, or shorting to an earth (such as frame). The battery should read over 12v when static and generally 14ish when charging (bike @ 30~50% redline). Ensure the fluid is kept topped up, and only use demineralised water. Make sure terminals and contacts are in good condition, coat with a small amount of protectant or vaseline after tightening to prevent corrosion if you find it is a problem.

    You can do all that yourself, as well as basic stuff like tyre pressure (minimum of monthly checks, and mandatory before out of town rides) and ensuring things aren't working loose (nuts, clips, cables, etc). If you aren't confident with specified mechanical milestones such as valve adjustment, timing checks, mixture adjustment, shock and seal replacing and/or internal part replacement then you will need to stick to the book and refer to a good mechanic. If you've got a good knowledge of these things then you'll probably know whats happening and what needs doing, as well as how to do it.

    That sums up my theory of bike maintenance. Add anything else if its applicable. Oh yeah...keep everything clean. It'll protect the bike, keep it looking good, and help you spot problems that may otherwise have been masked.

    Cheers - boingk
     
     Top
  15. Great advice, much appreciated.

    I have, what I believe to be, a serious problem regarding battery/and or alternator.

    I have posted a thread in the Troubleshooting thread so any input or suggestions will be appreciated greatly.

    Thank you.

    - Zealous
     
     Top
  16. Hi Zealous, $50 for a Zeal air filter sounds cheap..
    I've been doing the ring around and so far $100.80 is the cheapest I've found. Can you let me know where you got quoted $50 from.
    Hopefully they'll ship interstate.
     
     Top