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Mechanical issues at 72k on the clock ?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Browncoat, Dec 9, 2010.

  1. My 1996 YZF1000R has just hit 72k and I am hearing a slight rattle in the engine when cold and the hydraulic clutch friction point is at the end of lever travel(not slipping tho).

    Friend of mine reckons jap bikes need to have the cam chain replaced after 45k.. manual doesn't specify when it needs to be replaced but it looks to be a major job to do(engine out and split).

    As for the clutch.. would one expect to get much more than 72k of life out of it? could a worn clutch introduce the slight rattle I am hearing when cold?

    Suggestions on how to proceed here?

    Thanks guys.
  2. sorry, slightly confused.

    72,000 k's or 72 k's?
  3. I belive our Firefly fan of an OP will be referring to 72,000 kms as he mentioned about a cam chain replacement and also that the bike 96 model.
  4. to avoid confusion you should have said 72kkskms, or seventytwo sowsand kelowmeters
  5. and is it a 12 hour clock or 24 hour clock
  6. 72Mm could well see the cam chain gone, but it may be the tensioner. That is common to a lot of Jap bikes.

    The fact that the friction point has moved on a hydraulic actuated clutch is a worry. I'd defiantly say you need to overhaul the clutch. And no 72Mm is neither here nor there in term of longevity. I'd do that first and see what the basket looks like and see if the rattle goes away afterwards.
  7. Thanks for the replies even if only one really addressed the post :)

    Isn't "k" representive of "thousand" ? Hence 72k means 72,000. why the confusion?

    ibast, I also was thinking along the lines of replacing the clutch first see how things go, thanks for the affirmation.
  8. Yes, his 1996 bike has done 72kms =D>
  9. Because then it would only be 72,000 meters, which is of course just 72km.

    What you are really saying is 72 kilo, kilometers, which is silly.

    So it's either 72,000 km or 72Megameters (Mm).
  10. I tawt it twas pronounced 'tousand'..I agree though, the clutch basket,plates and springs need a looks see and inspect the hydraulic system for the clutch.I may be as simple as changing the fluid..when did that last happen? Or it could be a piston/seal thingy wot needs going over.
  11. 70,000km (using no abbreviations makes things easy!) can definitely see the clutch on the way out - especially if the bike has seen hard use... which given the clientelle of 1000cc sports bikes, is quite likely. Luckily the clutch isn't such a big job on most bikes and could be done at home by you if you've got a few basic tools. The plates themselves would most likely be around $100~$150 or so.

    I would also do the clutch before thinking camchain. At 70,000km it could or could not be playing up, but I'd err on the side of 'not'.

    Cheers - boingk
  12. A lot of Yams have very noisy clutch baskets as well, my TRX is bloody noisy with the clutch out in neutral, when is the noise occurring?

    (Wouldn't hurt to check the cam chain as well...)
  13. Does the noise change when the clutch lever is pulled in? If so, most likely the clutch centre bearing is on it's way out. If it's the needle roller type make sure you also change the centre as well.
  14. niether of them are massive jobs.

    ive have never had to do much work on hydraulic clutches, but if the friction point has changed, first check leaks, bleed then start looking deeper. worse case is it could be a collapsed diaphragm in the actuator. remember when idling in neutral, the box will be pretty noise compared to clutch in in gear.

    72k kms is not at all uncommon for the CC/CCT to be worn, you say its worse cold tells me likely to be tensioner. at least its an I4, only one to do.

    if you are not in a rush, get the bits from the states, they are a SH!TLOAD cheeper.

    EDIT:mate you didnt say if the firction point has changed? the friction point at the near end of lever travel is normal on a hydraulic clutch. too far out, adjust the lever. if the clutch is not slipping it doesnt need changing, yes it may be the needle bearing on the outter basket, only circumstances under which that would happen is its oil supply is blocked, or there is a much bigger problem on the main shaft, unlikely, then again it is a yamaha... dicky trannys on blue bikes is not unheard of.

    yep my money is on CCT
  15. The rattle I hear is only very slightly quieter when clutch is in(barely any difference).

    The friction point has always been right at the end of lever release since I bought the bike. One other symptom I haven't mentioned is a bit of a shudder(not really a feeling of shuddering just noise of shudder) from the clutch/gearbox when cold (the first couple times the clutch is released in gear) after that it is not noticed.
  16. The shudder you feel is notches on the grooves of the clutch baskets, normal wear and tear, there are a couple of solutions to that when the clutch packs it in. There is no point ripping into to it just for that. So that is the only rattle? Around the clutch and it's a bit less noisy when you engage the clutch? If so, nothing is wrong with your bike. It's good to be attentive to new noises, alot of the time however it is you newly noticing old noises, not the bike developing new ones. Smile, it's a beating your credit card won't have to wear now. Of coarse you can't be 100% without tearing the bike down and checking everything. Next time you drop your oil keep and eye out for any metal, this will likely indicate some adverse wear if it's going on, if it's a cartrige type filter rip it open and have a look around the paper element
  17. If the clutch isnt slipping i'd be looking at whether or not the clutch master cyl piston/seals/fluid need replacing first rather than the clutch. Dont want to go through replacing the clutch if its just an easy fix