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Make Your Own Camera Mount

Discussion in 'Riding Gear and Bike Accessories/Parts' at netrider.net.au started by conspiracytheorist, Dec 7, 2007.

  1. This type of thing has been posted before, but I'm bored.

    I don't see the point in paying $150 bucks for a camera mount when you can make one yourself for $5 with minimal effort.

    Go to any hardware (or look in the garage) for a bracket such as this, pretty much designed for shelves, etc. This came with the holes already drilled. Cost about $5 (should have been less, but my local is expensive).



    What needs doing? Just stick it in a vice and bend it so that you've got space to put the camera on. I then glued some old wetsuit material where it'd be touching the tank + touching the camera. Then just find the right size screws and bolt for your camera + tank. Only downside is that you have to take it off to put petrol in. But if you work it so that you put it on an angle on the tank, and just put the camera facing forward, you can get around this. Or if you're handy, you could make something like this:


    Easy to do, and its fun to film yourself :)

    Heres an example with it on, before I tweaked the position though. And I'm riding quite poorly as well - but its the only version I have that doesn't show my speedo.

    EDIT: I've also found another method on making your own mount, check out the instructional vid:
  2. nice, vid came out pretty well too. can you show some pics of it attached to the camera and bike.

  3. Couldn't be bothered actually attaching it, but you get the idea.


    From the camera's perspective:


    Thats the first time I tried putting the SV on it, and despite the difference between the bike, its still definitely usable, as you can see.
  4. nice, i might give something like that a crack and nick my bros camera.


  5. I'd love to put a camera mount on my bike, but I've got a green screen. Film would look kinda funny! :wink:

  6. Can't see the pics at work, but I get your drift Phizog.

    Or you could get one of these from >>EBAY<< which looks like it will extend up enough to peak over a dub bub... and looks a bit tidier.

  7. Well, I've got one of the mounts I pictured... it's not very rock solid at full extension...

    I have a dub bub so have to jerry rig an extension or something to get the camera poking up above the screen... :-k

    I'll get back to ya's.
  8. I made mine to attach at the front as well for stability.


    Phizog, am I looking at it wrong or does it cover your filler cap? No fuel stops with camera on board?
  9. For the price that is not a bad mount. There are some alloy ones avaliable that are alot more sturdy though as i think that one would vibrate a bit much with a big camera like the one in the pic. I have found that filming through a smoke tinted screen gives better footage through the cam I use as it does not go crazy trying to focus in poor light. I bought an Oregon Scientific action cam for $199 from a camera store in the city. It records to an SD card and can be fitted just about anywhere the only thing is it has poor sound quality. Heres a link to a US site on Ebay


    And a link to the vids I have made with it.

  10. Oz, I have one of them cam's too... I thought the microphone issue was just a fault with mine! Looks like they might all be like that!

    Mine is even worse than yours... though.

    Shooting throught the screen from the light issue point of view, makes sense, I'll have to give that a try... that'll save some messing around!

  11. I also have a very tinted screen so anything looking through it is not an option. I have a super light camera, but mounting off the fairing simply doesn't work.
    Any one got any thoughts on a rigid mount that doesn't look through the screen? (The camera is only 3 - 4cm diameter and around 10cm long so It can fit small spaces, and doesn't weigh much, I just need a rigid mount point).
  12. How about mounting it directly under the front fairing? You could drill a couple of holes into the fairing under there and never see them.

    Unless you hit something really major, the forks shouldn't compress enough for it to be a problem under there. And, if they do compress that far, you're going to be more worried about what the hell it was you just hit anyway!
  13. A guy I knew back around the Hills District of Sydney had set-up a couple of (reasonably substantial and rubber lined) pressure hose clamps (like the ones on flexible hose connections on pool pumps) one above the other on one front fork where the top part of the fork body casting widens out slightly. Between them he had a flat strip of (I think about 2-3mm alloy) that he'd fashioned to adapt to the lower mount of his handicam (I think they have a threaded hole in the bottom to accept a tripod mount - well his did anyway). Aparently it worked OK for him (and saw the vids too..... very nice). The advantage was that it was fairly well vibration free and because the cam was mounted lower, the resultant footage always looked "faster" than it really was.

    From memory he had put some tape over most of the microphone frontal area to try and drown out a lot of the wind noise.
  14. I had considered that cookeetree but it is a ZZR 250. the underside of teh front fairing vibrates like a compleate SOB.
    Taily so is that on the outer barrel of a normal set of forks, so the camera is not recieving any of the shock absorbtion of the forks at all?
  15. Yeah the zzr suspension makes the footage look bad. Plus in that video I was using it more extended (using the further screw), later I put the screw in the middle so there was less leverage and therefore less shaking. Yes, the way I mounted it on the zzr you have to take it off to put fuel in, but given the zzr's 450km fuel range it wasn't an issue. I'll have to play around with the SV to see if I can put it on to allow fueling up.
  16. Do what I do and use a good magnet (doesnt effect flash memory but could tape, HDD). You will have less shake if you have minimal zoom as well.
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  18. Yep. Reading back I could have worded that post better - but yeah, that is where he had it mounted (RHS of the RH fork) and the footage from the camera seemed fairly stable with only the odd larger or sharper bump causing a momentary blur in the footage.
  19. Just as a note of caution, your braket to the bike might be good, but check the reciever/thread in the camera. A lot of them are plastic these days and are made for mounting on a tripod not on a moving object.
    Even if the thread is steel normally the camera case around it is still plastic and not that strong.
  20. To be frank, the mount is absoulely shite at any kind of extension. Luckily, at the shortest extension it's sturdy enough for the very light action camera mentioned earlier... and shooting through the dubbub is OK... so long as I clean the bug splats routinely!

    Here's the set up. The video quality is ok - the shaking is at a minimum - a better camera with image stabalisation would make it even better.


    Notice the rubber under the forward bolt - that's so the extension bit can be pushed hard against the rubber to help dampen out some vibration.