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Major stuff up - need advice please!

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Omarko, Aug 22, 2009.

  1. hi guys

    I was going to install my new Rizoma Sportline grips and bar ends when I ran into a fairly big problem.

    The 2 screws that are on the throttle housing (CBR600RR '08) are impossible to take out.

    I basically F$@$%ed it up and stripped the heads ... I used a dremel to put in a grove so I can use a flat head screw driver to take the screw out, but the screws are way to soft and its even worse now. I do all my upgrades on the bike, car etc ... and NEVER had such a tight screw. Also, the position is bad so you cant really use a long screwdriver ....

    Any ideas on what I can do ? It looks like I have no choice but to cut the throttle housing and replace it ... :( :( :(

    Why would the screws be in so tightly ? Threadlock ? if yes, how am I supposed to remove them ?

    any help or advice is appreciated! thanks ...


  2. theres a couple of things you could do.

    I would probably, and carefully drill off the tops of the screws, then use vice grips to undo the threads. Failing that I would drill the screw out, rethread and put larger screws in to fit.

    Now are you sure you were trying to turn them the correct way?
  3. thanks for the tips ... I was going counter clock wise (I assume that's the right way, the service manual does not state anything specific)

    can you tell me more about the first option please ? sorry, I kinda dont get it ... what does "undo the threads" mean ?
  4. when you open it up you should have some of the screw/bolt/whatever visible. Youu can latch onto that with some vice grips and undo it, like you would a bolt with a spanner. if there is enough thread showing to get two nuts onto it you can put one on then another then use the lower one in a spanner.

    and its lefty-loosey ... righty-tighty... normally. you can come accross screws and bolts that are counter threaded.
  5. wd 40 in the thread housing leave a night then with a hemmer tap tightly the scewdriver into the screw and undo.
    If not then what was said above will have to do.
  6. Perfect screw profile for what I often find I have to do with carby assemblies (Mainly the rails that hold them together, from the factory they're torqued to the shitter, or the corrode/deform the aluminium.)

    Centre punch in the middle of the screw, 2 mil pilot hole (If the head is so f**ked the bit starts to wander), and then with a 6-7mm bit (I'm guessing it's an M5 screw hole), slowly drill the head of the screw.
    One of two things will happen -
    1) The screw head will separate and you'll be able to tell (It'll start spinning)
    2) You'll be slightly off with the drill bit and hit the plastic. at this stage a cold chisel and a rubber mallet will pop the head right off.

    Then, when the housing is split, just remove the old ones and outlay 10c at your local bolt shop for new ones! (Personally, I go for allen key bolts, just don't torque them in, use a T-bar)

    If you've gone in a wee bit too far and taken a little bit too much meat off the mounting face, just ask for a brass washer for each, it will spread the load out beyond the screw's reach.
  7. thats a great tip but the problem is I can not access the area in the right angle as there is only about 15cms worth of space to work with ... that is why I can only use a short screw driver ... any drill is much bigger than that I can't fit it in there to drill the screw out :(
  8. I understand what you mean, fairings don't make a bike very mechanic friendly, can try the other things, but I'd probably bite the bullet and just jump in and rip the upper fairing off for access. Otherwise, you could try removing the clipon and just use a low-speed cordless drill, using the cables and your free hand to help steady it. I like hacksaws, but I'm not a fan of how they manage to scratch up everything in a two metre radius. :)
  9. Im just thinking ... if I start drilling into the head of the screw , what will that do ? if the head of the bolt is gone, I am even in worse position that before ... or am I getting it wrong ? sorry :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:
  10. No, it won't. Think of it as an extremely long alignment stud. Double checking the fisch on RideNow (http://store.ridenow.com/fiche_section_detail.asp), the design is standard.

    Think of it as a shell clamping the bars, if you drill the head off, you'll just be able to slip the end cap right off the end of the bolts; the only potential issue would be a wafer-thin lip of metal left on the bolts, and either further drilling or controlled force easily takes care of that problem!
  11. since you have put the picture up i have another option for you. using your dremel trim the edges into a hex shap and use a socket.
  12. Yup, that's what I would do ;)
  13. Half of the housing is NOT threaded. Just grind the top off the screw and
    the housing will pop apart, exposing the shank of the screw so you can
    use pliers and WD40 to get the rest out.
  14. Cheers hotcam, that's what I was trying to say last night, only coudn't get it as succinct as you!
    For screws, I'd prefer drilling, heat, accessibility and aesthetics are three major reasons for not grinding!
  15. i think i said that too, though i didn't mention that its only half threaded, i took that as a given. Sorry.
  16. Oh I suppose that some people would think I meant "use an angle grinder"
    but you are right there is no space for one so I was thinking of a die
    grinder or dremel-type tool. But drilling the heads off would also work.
  17. I should have read this earlier!

    I did not realize that half of the housing is not threaded ... damn ... I should have just grinded the screw heads off ... I'll do that next

    thanks guys!!! why did I not think of it before !

    I also got these today :

    it will help removing the stuck screws :

  18. once you take the housing off you'll have plenty of room to lock onto them with vice grips. then undo em like bolts.(seeing as though youll be able to put them anywhere to get at them)
  19. Was gonna suggest an extractor screw or reverse-thread drill bit. Same problems with access in tight spots, but can be a nice quick fix.
  20. phew ... all done ... once I grinded the top of the top screw head ... the housing loosened up and it was a breeze after that ... gosh ... why did I not think about this before! would have saved myself hours!!!!

    thank you all for all the help guys !!!! Netrider ROCKS!!!!!