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Lowering link

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by robbie55, Feb 10, 2011.

  1. I would like to have a little more of my feet on the ground especially when trying to reverse up a slight incline. I have found an inexpensive lowering link for my bike here:


    I know little about this stuff though and have previously put off making any of these changes as reading on the subject always tends to come the conclusion that lowering a bike via suspension should be done at both ends by a pro to avoid any major negative effects to handling.

    I'm not sure though if these negative effects refers to day to day riding or just for someone inclined to use it at the track etc.

    Any able to shed any light?

  2. Generally a cheap set of lowering links is just a longer than stock linkage to go in the rear suspension mechanism. Fairly simple to fit and, conversely, not hard to remove if you don't like the effect.

    Lowering either end of the bike will reduce your ground clearance. This might or might not be a problem, depending on how much you have to start with and how much you habitually use. Lowering the rear suspension will also tend to make the steering slower and heavier but will improve stability due to the way it alters the steering geometry of the bike. Ie, lowering the rear will tend to make the handling less sporty. Unlikely to be by much though.

    There is a small risk that, with the links in, the rear tyre may contact the inside of the mudguard before the suspension hits the bump stop. The noise will let you know in no uncertain terms if this happens. It's not particularly dangerous for it to happen once, but if it does happen, it needs to be addressed.

    If the links are cheap enough, I'd say give them a try and see if you can live with the effects.
  3. The other risk with a lowering link is it can change the rate change characteristic of the rear end. So most rear ends are designed rising rate (or close to linear), so the shock gets firmer with travel. Changing links may cause that rising rate to become drastic. So the shock goes from compliant to almost locked up very quickly.

    Or could change it to a lowering rate. So this feels like the shock gets softer during travel.

    Or maybe a combination of the two.

    Before I bought a lowering link I would want to see the manufactures working for this.

    [edit] I should add that just because a site looks professional doesn't mean they aren't selling you something that doesn't stuff up your handling. I know of one site that sells angled tripple clamps (for choppers) and in all the photos you can see the negative trail it creates, but they sell them.
  4. Thanks for the replies - I suppose in my mind I thought that not adjusting the suspension but rather changing a (fixed) link might be best as it doesn't affect the travel of the spring/shock - whether thats actually true or not in practice I don't know but made sense in my mind at least.

    If the effect in lowering the rear end by adjusting the suspension or installing this link is the same I'd obviously rather save myself the money, but makes me wonder why anyone would buy a lowering link if that was the case. (apart from ibast's comments re dodgy components and someone just looking to make a buck)

    FWIW 90% of my riding is commuting and clearance hasn't been an issue in the past, a better handling bike is always welcome but again as much of my use is around town, having to make concessions on where I can travel because I can't back out is a pain.
  5. Hello, did u end using this lowering kit?, how did it go ?, I am looking at doing this to my bike.