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Low slide @ 20km/h - How much to repair?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by cbwolf, Oct 13, 2007.

  1. Hey guys,

    Went out for my first ride this morning and wouldn't you know it, lost it around an oily corner after 5 minutes and went into a low slide.

    So as far as damage, i took some pics:

    DSC00332.

    DSC00333.

    DSC00334.

    DSC00335.



    So basically i'd be looking at a new screen, left hand indicator, plastic welding of the top fairing and the gear level is about 1cm bent in.

    Any ideas how much it'd cost roughly?

    The bike runs fine as i took it for a 30 min ride after, so it's all cosmetic.
     
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  2. Possibly expensive cosmetics - a screen could cost you $110, a blinker assy $40, and welding could be $40 to $60.

    The gear lever only needs straightening - slip a small diameter tube over the end of the lever (the part you hook with your foot) and bend it back, Try it gently (it will tend to spring back somewhat) and check as you go. I often use a larger ring spanner to do it, hooking the ring over the end of the lever. This lets you see what is happening as you bend

    Avoid just bending the lever "outward" - rather apply rearward pressure as well. Also straighten the fairing mount where it connects to the broken screen - this would have bent for there to be so much separation.

    If you can't handle the repairs yourself you might end up paying $100 to $150 for labour, maybe more.

    Best regards

    Trevor G
     
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  3. Thanks very much for the info. The screen and blinker and lever i can do no worries. Is it possible to plastic weld yourself?
     
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  4. Yes it is possible to plastic weld your self. Assuming your fron peice is stock strip the paint heat to 350 degrease centergrade and tack it together. That bit is easy

    Refinshing/repainting that section is a pain in the arse.
     
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  5. Why which part of YOU is broken? :LOL:

    V8
     
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  6. Noo...! Bl00dy oil :cry: So are you ok?

    :rofl:

    Victorian Motorcycle Wreckers has heaps of CBR250 parts :wink:
     
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  7. Yeh i'm alright. Skinned and bruised knee and sprained ankle (Hopefully, it hurts a fair bit so getting an x-ray tomorrow to make sure it's not fractured).

    But apart from that, i'm good. Rode another 3 or so hours later on in the afternoon, so it definately didn't hold me back! Frankly, i think i'm completely in love with riding. It's a feeling i couldn't describe to someone that does ride!

    As far as repairs, i found a place near me called "Bike Magic" in Moorabin. Anybody familiar with their work?
     
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  8. Not trying to be picky but it might be a good idea to heat the metal of the lever before bending to try to avoid weakening the metal. I think I'm on the right track (sorry if I'm not!) and am going to do the same to my rear brake pedal when i get the time (For the meanwhile i can live with it bent up a bit :p )

    Also I'm glad you're not seriously hurt and hope that the knee isn't anything to worry about. Good on ya for not letting it get in the way of loving riding :grin:
     
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  9. [/quote]

    Not trying to be picky but it might be a good idea to heat the metal of the lever before bending to try to avoid weakening the metal. I think I'm on the right track (sorry if I'm not!) and am going to do the same to my rear brake pedal when i get the time (For the meanwhile i can live with it bent up a bit :p )

    Also I'm glad you're not seriously hurt and hope that the knee isn't anything to worry about. Good on ya for not letting it get in the way of loving riding :grin:-(/quote]

    Its aluminium alloy so dont heat it unless you know what you are doing. To make a difference it has to be heated to its plastic point (dull red for iron alloys) but aluminium alloys dont change colour as they approach the plastic point. So one minute it looks fine, then the next its melted.
     
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  10. Oh thanks for the heads up. Shows what I know about metallurgy! :p The lever being aluminium didn't even cross my mind. Are almost all levers/pedals aluminium?.. for instance a 1990 250 bandit's rear brake pedal? :LOL:
     
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  11. Try plastex on the top fairing instead of plastic welding, it's only $40 or 50 a kit. I've used it on my car a few times, it works pretty well!
     
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