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Low end mechanics

Discussion in 'Businesses and Service Providers' started by Jez79, Jul 11, 2007.

  1. Ok, so normally the question is who is the best mechanic yada yada yada... What I want to find is a really CHEAP mechanic in VICTORIA to do some basic stuff on a 1983 VT250F. Its my Girlfriends bike and she wants to sell it but can't come to terms with the fact that she'll probably lose money on it or that you occasionally have to spend bucks on it. Its done 100,000 kms and still goes but its getting pretty rough. So what I need is someone who can go over and just let us know what needs doing in order to sell the bike, without spending too much money.

    First priority is safety, second is performance. Can anyone recommend any of the M/C wreckers for mechanics as this would surely be the cheapest place to get any replacement parts.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. Not to be a party pooper, but the bike is at the end of it life. The re-build costs across the board will exceed replacement. Registration + Insurance is worth more than the bike. It is worth more to you as a commuter ride than as a sale proposition.

    Suggestion is that you either ride it till it drops or take it too a wreckers (or sell parts yourself).
  3. Yes it is at the end of its life. Sell it for whatever couple of hundred bucks you can get for it, as is, no guarantees or RWC. Someone will be desperate enough to buy it and fix it themselves no labour charge, eg tafe student.
  4. stick it on ebay $0.99 no reserve with an honest description and decent photos and take what you get for it
  5. I take it you mean that you want to find out what's needed to get a RWC? That all depends on the mechanic giving it the inspection. Some expect perfection, others not. Ray Quiney's for instance will do a RWC at a good price and their standards are fair with regard to an old vehicle (ie doesn't need to be top notch, just sound re balance, brakes etc). I think you get 30 days, so you could then quickly do the work yourself and sell it with the RWC (at, as others have said, a fair price, given that it's not got too long to live, and somebody else's broke girlfriend will be spending all her savings on it). For the hard bits (valve clearances and cam chain tension - the rest is easy, just consolt www.dansmc.com) go to that lawnmower mechanic down the road.

    Otherwise, ditto to selling it unregistered and cheap on Ebay - vehicles depreciate! (unless it's an SR500 :grin: )
  6. And most wreckers I've been to have someone that can,at least,get the thing to go...or maybe RWC standard...
  7. I've heard a rumour that the cheap mechanic shop is right next door the cheap tyre shop. When you find them let me know, I've been looking for about 15 years.
  8. And when you take the bike back there for the third time, and it's ended up costimg more than a proper fix in the first place, you'll see why trades are not cheap.
    If you want cheap, get some tools, a book and fix it yourself.

    Regards, Andrew.
  9. Very sound advice Typhoon and I totally appreciate what you're saying. On the other hand though, I have tried to learn about the particular issues on this bike, most I have remedied myself but there's a couple of things I wanted someone who knew a little more about it to look at it.. I'm sure you can understand with a bike of this age, I did not want to be paying top dollar for the best workshop and mechanic, just enough for someone who knows what they're doing and is not going to overcharge. Appreciate your input though.
  10. I get where you;re coming from mate, I learnet from a book originally!
    Just keep plugging away till you understand what you are trying to fix, and one day you'll get the principle behind it and bingo! you'll have it fixed.
    I know many people who are self taught mechanics, and because they have spent the time actually learning why things work, they are excellent at fault finding, not the rote learnt, replace anything suspect/ send it out for a third party to recondition mentality that prevails with mechanics these days.
    A lot of mechanics are just technicians that remove and refit sub assemblies now, and have lost teh ability to trouble shoot and think.

    Regards, Andrew.
  11. i'v rebuilt one of these engines, it was the first time i'd ever seen a 4 stroke. i didnt even know what a 4 stroke was when i purchased it. (2 engines in 5 boxes).

    if it's running ok sell it. if it's brakes or bearings get a book or rip a copy from
    http://www.repairmanualclub.com/ and get some tools and do it your self. if it's the motor get a replacmet from the wreckers if they have any. this motor used to flog out cam chains, tensioner and cams (if you were lucky) at around 30,000km.

    it's not where i'd like to start learning about motor rebuilds. also honda seams to charge HUGE $$$$$ for engine parts.

    cgheaper for a second hand engine or evilbay it with a honast discription. you dont want to piss some one off who wont give you the $$$$ if you miss discribe it.
  12. Jez79,
    Guess you are talking about one of these bikes,


    I had one of them as my first road bike,
    in 1993, not bad for its day.
    I had the heads on my done, had a bent exhaust valve,
    got them oversized,
    and removed the carby restrictors, hotter plugs,
    reved like mad after that,
    but are tricky to put back together,
    with the 4 cams and 2 timing chains.

    Just wondering if there is a specific issues with the gfs bike or just wear and tear?

  13. Gday Big Chris,

    Bike seems to run really well for reliability and power is ok too. The issue that I would like to try and remedy is sloppy rev (it takes a second to come up to speed in the rev dept) and secondly, when the bike is warm and you back off the throttle, it sometimes stays sitting up around 3000 rpm even though the idle is set down near 1000rpm.

    A few people have mentioned something to do with carby diaphragm but I personally wouldn't know. If that's the case, do i pay for a rebuild or just swap with one from a wrecker?? Not sure..

    Any input appreciated.
  14. Why do people not want to pay for a mechanic who knows what he is doing? The options are, take it to a half arsed mechanic where you will need to take it back to him 3 or 4 times for him to hopefully fix it (fingers crossed) but will only charge you $50 per hour or take it to a mechanic who know what he's doing will fix it first time but charges $90 per hour?
  15. Thanks for the input lance, but the reason behind this is the same reason we don't eat at the best restaurants sometimes. If all you want is a good parma, then why go to a 5 star restaurant to have it when the pub down the road is just as good? Strange metaphor I know.

    Sometimes, something in the middle will be good. All I want is someone to diagnose the problem and help me fix it that won't cost the earth.

    Anyhow, leave it with me, I'll think of something..

  16. Jez79,
    does sound a little like carbs need some attention,
    can't remember off hand what the carby configuration was on that bike,
    Mechanical over vacuum from memory.

    Does it have a forward and return line on the throttle cables?

    This is roughly what it should look like,
    maybe not exact model but should be close.

    Check first that you have both throttle cables fitted,
    or that the correct throttle twist grip is fitted that can take the 2 cables.
    If it has the 2 cables fitted move on,

    If has not,
    that will affect the opening and closing of the carby slides,
    as it relies on the spring to do all the work,
    check that the carbs are opening and closing smoothly and quickly,
    I would install the return cable if it is missing.

    If the return cable is fitted,
    look next at where the cable go to the carbs,
    (need to take off tank)
    again check that the carbs are opening and closing smoothly and quickly,
    is the cables are not well lubricated or are damaged they will catch and cause delayed throttle reponse.

    As well check the vacuum hoses on both of the carbs,
    not damaged or split.

    See how that goes,
    will see if I can find the service guide for that bike..



    PS. 100,000kms for that engine type is not the end of its life,
    if the rings are still sealing and the engine is not burning lots of oil,
    keep running it,
    the VT engine had roller type bearings for the crank and gearbox.
    Not the most powerful but damm tuff.

    End Edit
  17. Big Chris,

    Thats the exact model of bike, and yeah they seem pretty tough! Can't thank you enough for your input, it's nice to have a bit of optimism! It seems too many people are ready to throw something away before thoroughly investigating if it can be fixed..

    I will check those points that you've mentioned and see how we go..

    Many thanks again!
  18. Jez79 I see that ur in St Kilda and that Dandenong might be a bit far to travel for what ur needing but if you want a good honest mechanic then John @ Southern Quads/Motorcycles is ur man.
  19. Hey Buggarr, will check that one out if I can't solve the problem.

    Thanks heaps!
  20. Hi All,

    Just wanted to say a big thanks to those who contributed to this query. Unfortunately its all redundant now as the bike was written off on Thursday night. Girlfriend is ok, bit shocked but physically came through alright.

    Bike is a mess, so time to start looking again.

    Thanks again.