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Learning to tighten my U-turn

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' at netrider.net.au started by huzey, Nov 20, 2006.

  1. G'day all. I ride a cibby250 and I'm practicing for my p's test (got over 3 months left).

    Im trying to do 6.1 metre U turns (to the right), right now, I can do it about 8 metres.

    I lean the bike as far as i can to the right and i lean myself as far to the left as possible, i still can't seem to get any tighter.

    I know the cbr has a bigger turning circle than say posties, but I know someone who did their P's on a ZZR and made the U turn but just went outside the line.

    So can anyone give me some tips on u turns? thanks
  2. Huzey, only got a minute, so short answer. have been a couple of detailed threads lately try a search. Turn your head over your shoulder as you commence turn use the throttle to pull you out.
  3. Carpark session time!

    My tips:

    1) Try leaving the clutch fully out, and managing your speed between the throttle and the rear brake. Keep a bit of throttle on at all times and use the rear brake to tighten things up when you need it. The bike might cough a little but shouldn't stall.

    2) When you're leaning to the outside of the turn, let the bike drop into the turn underneath you. Look as far around through the turn as you can.
  4. Not sure if this is actually correct, but the way I do a U turn (obviously at very slow speed) is to hold the clutch at friction point, turn the bars eventually to full lock, and use the throttle and rear brake to stabilise the bike.

    Sometimes it even feels like I'm standing almost still during the U turn! Anyways, not sure if this is correct technique but it generally works. Sometimes I find myself revving a bit too much but using the rear brake to stabilise.
  5. Hey mate,

    I have a ZZR and went out for my first car park session on the weekend. Used the rule of doing the U turn in the space of two car park spaces. Roughly Stepped it out to about 6m, im sure it was a little less that 6.1m.

    Sure was a surprise to find out how tight 6m actually is!

    Ive read all of the advice on the forum and the best advice is two turn your head all the way to the right over your shoulder, make it really pronounced and the bike will follow.

    As for throttle control, i found easiest to enter with a constant throttle with clutch fully out and riding the rear brake to maintain speed. The most trouble i had was not quite fast enough and the bike wanting to fall in.

    after only bout half an hour though I was managing to get within the lines 50-60% of the time and came away feeling really good about it. Considering it was my first session, lots more practice to come before p's test should have it down!

  6. my advice:
    keeps your revs up, slip the clutch and use the rear brake to control your power. Lots smoother than dealing with the snatchy throttle.

    Keep the bike very upright, leaning it in at low speed will just make it want to fall over. if you do find it leaning in, remember to use throttle to straighten it as if you're already at full lock like your should be, you won't be able to steer in further to catch it like you would on a pushie.

    Leaning the bike in like you're told is erroneous at very low speed. as you learn to go quicker, it's necessary, but it just makes you unbalanced at learner speed.
  7. I did my test on the weekend... The best advice I can give is to actually ride the friction point (so keep your clutch in a bit) and your rear brake. Keep it at about 3 grand, too. If you need the extra bit of speed to pull you back upright, then just let the clutch out a bit more, but because you're riding the rear brake as well, you've still got plenty of control.

    Make sure you're looking at the end of the U'y too. You're whole body and bike will naturally follow you around.

    You can apply riding the clutch in the same way when you do your cone weave and sharp left turn too.
  8. immeadiatly look over your shoulder at your exit point
    friction point with clutch with reasonable revs
    control speed with rear brake
    steering to suit
    grip the tank with your knees as if you have a $100 bill there!!

    It pays to practice with a tighter turn than the P's test. It doesn't matter what happens in practice!!!!! Bring it in to say 5.5m and have a go!!

    god luck
  9. Slipping the clutch actually makes it more difficult, but it's the natural reaction to the circumstances.

    Try leaving the clutch fully out, keeping a bit of gas on at all times, and controlling your speed with the rear brake. Much smoother, I promise.
  10. This was something I was trying to teach Huzey but am definitely out of practice.

    I did a pre-P's course a few years ago in NSW and the instructor said
    1) move your butt to the opposite side of the turn, i.e to the left of the seat
    2) come in a say 1/2 a metre to the far left of the box and then flick the bike
    to the right to make your u-turn. He said this sets the bike up for the turn, anyone heard this?

    Are we still allowed to post pics? can we use the Img* thingy>[/img]
  11. I agree with Loz. Clutch out. Just enough throttle to keep the wheels turning very slowly and stop you stalling. Once confidence builds up you wont need to use rear brake at all, but if you do then use it before you start turning not while turning.
  12. It seems there is a difference of styles with U turns.

    I wonder what works for the little sports bike , does't really work for the big heavy cruiser????

    Horses for courses????

  13. I'd say for most cruisers, you pretty much won't meet the 6.1 metres in the test. Its possibly just really really hard imo. If the testing officer is nice and you're close to doing it within the limit, you should be ok.

    I have a zzr and I was practising my MOST stuff last weekend too (everyone is doing this at the same time, weird!). For the uturn, cone weave, and 90 degree turn I found the trick was to slip the clutch and keep the revvs up a little bit. A little combination with back brake helps a little too. I can now do it within the limit and without my foot touching the ground most of the time, just need a bit more practice. IMO slipping the clutch is alot easier to control than back brake, but whatever works for you.

    I heard that fairing bikes like the zzr and cbr can't do the p test (or at least its very hard) but after having done the exercises for 2 hours, I've got it mostly down pat.
  14. What is super crappy for U-turns on the little sports bikes is that when you turn the bars, the fuel tank inhibits your throttle control :?

    I can do the U-turn on my bike, but I found it easiest when I was carrying a little extra speed into the turn, so that I wasn't totally relying on the throttle to keep moving, OR wash off a whole tonne of speed and then dip the bike in a quick short lean with acceleration to complete the turn.

    Consistent turns are good with throttle, clutch, rear-brake - turn the bars in the direction of the turn, lean the bike in the direction of the turn ALSO, but you have to lean your body the other way to keep the bike up.
  15. Hi guys, just an update to this thread, I did the P's course yesterday and they were teaching us to lean the bike into the U turn and your body the opposite side to counter.

    Combined with friction point throttle and clutch control + rear brake, you can actually get it really tight (I found) - I did it well within the allocated box using this method, and did it quite slowly.

    Whatever feels comfortable I guess...
  16. I dont lean mine over at all. Keep myself & the bike as upright as possible; full lock and away I go.
    I have no need to touch the throttle. Control is all in the left arm.

    Must give this option a try I think.
    I wouldve thought if youre doing very slow turns (walking pace) you wouldnt be able to lean the bike over? :?
  17. True, it does sound a bit wrong leaning the bike at low speed however I guess it's more angling the bike into the turn and your body must counterbalance. I'd imagine the gyroscopic forces created by the throttle and clutch control enable the bike to remain rubber side down?

    I guess it is a matter of finding what works for you, the 6.1m in the P's test is quite generous too - but then again, I did it on my VTR, it would obviously be harder (but apparently still very possible) on something like a CBR etc...