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Lead replacement additives

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by incitatus, May 24, 2006.

  1. I have been using ValveMaster lead replacement additive in my 1975 'leaded fuel only' BMW R60/6 for a few months now. I have stuck strictly to the 10cc per litre suggested. The bike does not do a lot of mileage, and recently it's started being difficult to fire up from cold. I checked the nearly new plugs today and found a sort of thick brown shiny varnish coating on them of a type I have not seen before. I replaced the plugs and she fired up first crank. Has anybody else seen this? Is it likely to be the additive? Can any of the Netrider chemists give me clue?

  2. I used the same additive on my 1975 z900 for years and never had a problem. Maybe there is other issues ,apart from it being a bmw :grin: Oops just checked and it was flash lube i was useing :shock:
  3. Ive got a 1982 BMW 650 and I don't put any additive in at all. I just use regualr unleaded, and I have not had a problem 'with it.

    This after several thousand kilometers of using unleaded since Super petrol was discontinued.

    I grant you however that's it's possible that by 82 BMW bikes were already adapting their engines to use unleaded.
    By 1986 all the 650's had unleaded petrol stickers on their tanks, but they still ran fine on super.
  4. You can pretty much run anything 'unleaded' on super, as long as it doesn't have a catalytic converter. The other way round is not so easy. Many older 'R' series BMW's have been converted to unleaded with hardened valve seats, if you don't do this it will run just fine, but you will probably suffer from valve seat recession after a reasonable mileage. I don't remember what year they took unleaded as standard, but I know it was in the 80's. My 2004 R1150R is Premium Unleaded only. I think I will just try a different additive and see how I go.
  5. Yep My 1981 laverda Jota has suffered from the same problem it is specified as leaded only and 10:1 comp yes i did run some straight 98 octane in it and pretty quickly got some movement in the valves 1500 Ks at this stage i went to valve master and occasionally an octane booster. This stopped the problem with the valves recessing but the plugs have suffered i did change them out with a different number but still the same heat range this seams to have fixed my problem also the change to a sealed battery a Panasonic 24 amp with something like 60amp cold cranking capability has fixed most of the starting issues.

    The biggest problem with the new generation fuels is they go off to quick I have had problems with it when left for 6 weeks inbetween rides i tend to keep the fuel level low and try and run out the old fuel (into lawn mower ) etc
  6. I used to run flash lube in the 76 laverda twin.

    I did find it was fussy about what type of unleaded I used.


    Have you changed brands of petrol lately?
  7. Thanks for that, it pretty much confirms what I thought. The fuel was about 4 weeks old so that could have added to the problem. iBast, I have not changed fuel recently, I use only BP or Caltex Premium because I can be certain there is no Ethanol in it.
  8. i have been using a lucas brand fuel conditoner and upper cyclinder lubricant in one, works great! i use this with bp ultimate and have no problems at all :)
  9. Hi Maddog Ive heard about this product the fuel conditioner but not seen it anywhere yet where do you get it from ???????

    Thanks mate
  10. I think I used to have troubles with the 98s. I used to use 95s.
  11. Have not tried that, and it could be a good idea. I only use premium because my R1150R needs it, and it's simple to stick to one fuel for both bikes. I'll give 95 octane a go in the old girl, thanks.
  12. I recently had some advice from a mechanic (relating to an older car) that I should reduce the amount of additive used. In fact he suggested using it only in every second tankful, as the concentration seems to build up quite markedly using the recommended amount.
    Haven't had the kind of deposit build-up that you have, though, inci.
  13. In terms of fuels, you will get better joy out of the 98 octane fuels. However, beware of the Shell Optimax. Even with lead additive it does nasty things to carbs and valves. Ive found leaving a full tank in a rarely used vehicle seems to make the fuel last longer before it goes off, suggested to me as limiting the reaction with the air in the tank.

    In terms of the build up on your plugs, try running the engine up to temp and give it a bit. Sometimes just needs a good run to clear out the rubbish, alot of the new fuels are "cooler" than Super due to their additives.

    The best fix (and most exp.) is to get some hardened valve seats put in so you can run on unleaded. You may also get some joy out of rejetting the carbs..

    Good luck..
  14. FWIW, I received a similar recommendation(one every three tankfuls) for use in my Porsche 928 (1979) and haven't had any problems...