Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Koni shocks - rebuildable?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Ezyryder, May 3, 2008.

  1. Hi peeps,

    I have Koni shocks on the rear of my 82 Bonnie, I got them second-hand from Euro-Brit here in Vic, apparently they are rebuildable. I dunno if it means anything, but they both have the numbers 7610 1330 on the base of 'em. Does anyone know where I could access a kit or the parts to rebuild them? Also had anyone ever done this before - I'm told its pretty easy to do. i'm gonna call Euro-Brit as well to see fi they have any leads or kits themselves

    Cheers :cool:
  2. Call Ikon, someone once told me they have the tooling that koni used for bike shops.

    Very similar product numbers too, looking at your post.
  3. Cheers QW :)
  4. +1 Yes they are fully rebuildable and yes IKON bought all the tools and rights
    from Koni. IKON are in Albury-wodonga, but any good bike shock
    shop should be able to help.
  5. Contact proven products they are (were?) the Australian dist for Koni. They can re-build them no problem.
  6. Yeah, proven products is Ikon which is the same bloke.

    Great guy too, you can order shocks to non standard length too.

    Before you rebuild, you can actually buy a pair of new shocks, if they are similar to my SR400, for around $450. Takes him around two days to make and ship them to you.
  7. Toperformance are the Koni importers for Victoria.

    They are not cheap but they can rebuild it.

    Doesn't matter who you take it to....Just be careful with any rebuild...specify that you want a quote first and make sure they understand that.

    Shafts wear in the working area from the constant rubbing on the top seal and guide (the shaft will have a darkened area where the friction has discoloured it) and quite often replacing the seal won't stop it from leaking. Shafts also rust and get pitted outside the working range (towards the top of the shaft) which can damage seals when large travel movements occur. Careful use of a micrometer might show the extent of the wear in the stiction area.

    Shafts can be rechromed and machined however it depends on how bad the hollow is and funnily enough, when you take it to some rebuilders, it seems that the shafts are always too bad to be rechromed....and the cost of a new shaft is near the price of a shock so they will try to sell you a whole new shock. Of course they can be quite right and the wear might be excessive however it's a nice marketing tool if that's what you should call it :? , so be prepared and ask what they believe acceptable wear limits are (in millimetres)....lol....then watch as they quite a bit uncomfortable and not tell you...lol. Anyway, the best bet is: Get a second opinion, if they both say the same thing then your stuck.

    Your best guide is your own gut feeling...look very closely at the shaft, feel it for pits and wear, feel the shock movement (vertically...the right way up...as fitted to the bike), feel if there are areas where it's easier or harder to move, see if it works from full bump to full rebound, look at the overall shock condition, blueing of the shaft etc. Of course moving it slowly is only testing slow run movement and is not definative but it can give you a guide.

    Wear can also occurs in the piston area where the piston rubs the bore...the piston has a ring on it which helps reduce friction ...it's not like a piston ring ...it allows a controlled bypass of fluid ....however the movement up and down can cause a belly in the working range which allows excess fluid to bypass the valve shims and causes the shock to be less effective. The piston itself can wear also and be scored. The inner bore can be replaced on twin tube shocks which solves this problem however on a monotube shock....the body of the shock IS the bore so the whole lot gets chucked.

    So there's two areas of problem..the shaft and the bore/piston clearance. Another area of problem is general fatigue of shim stacks and bypass springs due to heat and use. Not a major issue but can reduce the dampening.

    Another problem area is the nitrogen if the shock is gassed. Re-gassing it is one problem but knowing what pressure is another.

    Replacing the oil with the correct grade is another. Changing the weight of the oil changes it's damping characteristics and generally Koni won't tell you what weight they use or sell you the oil. Another marketing tool...lol. However shock oil is available from most off-road motorbike shops and this allows you to play...if your game. You must use the correct amount of oil. Just remember your playing with the handling of your bike and that can be dangerous.

    Good luck
  8. This should solve any problems -


    Tack, out of interest I was at the Koni suspension website a while ago and couldn't find any links on bike shocks... Am i missing something here :oops:
  9. I really dunno why they don't list them. I know they have a shock catoloque for them and of course they have made bike shocks for a long time.

    Maybe it's because they are see it as a specialist field. Possible they want to make sure only specialists fit their shocks as fitting the wrong shock to a bike could have disastrous consequences.
  10. Hmmm, i thought they just didn't sell bike shocks anymore?
  11. Yes Toperformance do the car Konis, some of which I bought recently
    through them and Pedders and they are fantastic on my car.

    When bikes started to go to all monoshocks, Koni didn't invest
    in that technology (I think their car arm was much more profitable)
    and as the twin-shock style of bike faded away Koni sold all their
    bike technology to Ikon. So Koni don't do any bike shocks anymore
    and Ikon only do twin-shock bikes (last time I looked). Except a
    very few early monoshocks like the BMW K-series.
  12. That's what I heard!

    Thanks for the clarification Hotcam!
  13. What they are both doing is squeak - loudly, and have done so for about 6 months. I have put graphite powder along the shaft, and wound up the preload, no change. The squeak doesn't appear to be coming from any other place i.e. swingarm. I might take them off and lube the top and bottom of the rubbers that are on each end - silly as it may sound, but it might be just that. Apart from that, the general performance of the shocks seems ok, or more to the point, I'm used to them.
  14. Yes I have found the upper and lower rubbers to cause a bad squeak
    on twinshocks before. A squirt of WD or silicone lube spray
    cured that quickly, but you might want
    to just unbolt them and check the rubbers and spacer washers etc to make
    sure the rubbers are in good condition and will stay that way.
  15. Cheers HC, will take 'em off and do that.
  16. The Koni on my K100 squeaked like a bastard the day I bought the bike. Five years and 100,000 km later, it still squeaked like a bastard. Two years on, it continues to squeak like a bastard whenever I move the bike.

    Doesn't seem to be showing any signs of wear or corrosion though and was still working well last time I rode the K :grin: .