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Kick starting a big single

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by kols_kebabs, Jun 15, 2007.

  1. Just bought a ttr600 motard! It rocks my socks off obviously...

    The only problem is starting. I think I've got the hot start thing down, but how do I cold start it?

    It's in immaculate condition. Open exhaust, and less restrictive air filter, so supposedly floods easily (according to previous owner).

    I know not to use any throttle, find top dead center, automatic decompression... And then jump down with maximum force on the bloody thing.

    But for cold starts? Full choke won't work at all. No choke, and the bike may fire up for a second and die... The method I used this morning (second cold start I've ever done), is 1/8 choke, got it running, then quickly pulled out 3/4 choke.

    If I kick it over a few times with too much choke on, will that cause it to flood?

    I know all bikes are different, but is there any advice you can give me?

    It kicks back like a biatch at times too. Apparently previous owner sold it because it broke his foot :eek:hno:
  2. Push it through a few cutnr with full choke on and no ignition on with the kickstarter. No need to put heaps of effort into it, just get some raw fuel into the cylinders.
    Then set up for your proper start, get it just PAST TDC and stomp on it.
    I've had to start large (120hp) outboards with a rope start, and this works. Basically you want to draw in some fuel, otherwise you're not going to get it to kick. If you get the engine just past a power stroke (ie TDC) you'l have more travel and inertia in that kickstarter before you meet resistance.

    Regards, Andrew.
  3. First: Make sure the decompressor works.
    Second: You need to turn it over until its on the compression stroke.
    Third: One full kick on full choke then another one with bout 1/4 and no bloody throttle.
    Fourth: Get it serviced inc carb due to the free flowing system you now have because if it wont start it will break your bloody foot!
  4. Learn to park it on a hill and roll start it.. :wink: :LOL:

    (That's what I ended up doing with the KTM when the battery crapped out :oops: )
  5. I've actually started parking it at the top of the hill now... having to get it started for the first time from cold, when I was 1/2 hour late for work (I'm a slack bastard), kicking it over for 15 minutes, and then having to push it to the top of the hill to get it started- not recommended.. Closest to vomiting I've felt since the last time I had vodka

    Thanks Typhoon, for your minimum effort explanation. I can see the logic of putting some fuel into it, turning it over gently with no ignition. Explains why it gets easier (possible) to start after a few kicks. The less full force kicks I have to put into it the better.

    If I can't learn to start it, it's the kind of bike you could get sick of very quickly... Great to ride, horrible to own.
  6. Did they ever come out with electric start? I wonder if you can retrofit it?

    Regards, Andrew.
  7. No!! They're hardcore, for real men
    so I'm struggling obviously

    The XT600 was the softer road trail version. I don't know how close the engines are between the two.
  8. Congrats so where are the pics :?:

    I struggle kickstarting anything over a 250 :oops:

    I'm with Typhoon, look into electric start.
  9. one kick with choke on, then choke off.
    roll throttle on and then off prior to kicking again.
    kick, kick, kick = vrooooom....feather throttle until revs stabilize

    worked with the XT500 *shrug*

    all singles like this have a "nack" just gotta work it out :)

    edit- took me 15 minutes to spell check this. damn rum
  10. Yep, it's all technique. I can kick start my KTM 625 single in a pair of thongs (the ones you put on your feet you sick perverted b@stards :LOL: :LOL: )
    For me -full choke, one twist of the throttle, ease it over top dead centre using the manual decompression lever and one or two kicks will see her fire into life. Don't touch the throttle as you are kicking it over. Make sure the idle speed is spot on. This makes a huge difference.
    If you are having trouble with the whole top dead centre thing, click it into gear, roll it backwards untill it locks on the compression, hit neutral and then kick.
    It should not take a real massive blood vessel bursting kick. Just make sure you kick it through the FULL travel of the kick start. None of this namby pamby 2 stroke style half @rsed love prods :LOL: :LOL:
  11. I've got a ttr 250 and it has both electric and kick.

    I'm sure you could get a retro starter fitted if you research somwhere.
  12. my srx600 is a mans bike (read kick start :wink: )

    It's stock, and all I need to do in the morning is choke on, gently move kickstart to get the auto-go magic decomp set, one "primer" kick, reset to TDC/decomp, another and shes rockin'
    then gradually reduce choke as it warms up.

    mind you, its never got below about 8 degrees..... so doesn't count as a real cold start :p

    Once the engine is modded, you'll need to suss out it's idiosyncracies, it'll be totally unique

    The motors are reasonably easy to change between the 600cc models, but retro fitting electrickery starts to the manual start models requires machining etc, not really worth it.
  13. Im with the others here on the need to prime it by kicking it slowly through once beforehand to draw some petrol in. Always made things easier on my DR500.

    After you've primed it (once should be enough), then get it to decompression point and give it a full blooded kick through full range on about 1/4 choke. Once it starts adjust choke to temperature of day.

    If you need more than 1/4 choke then something isnt right. The more choke you use on kicking it the more nasty it will be if it kicks you back.
  14. give the throttle a few twists to work the accelerator pump. if you've got a free flow system it may well be on the lean side.

    usually a few twists with choke on, kick (rinse and repeat if it doesn't fire) and you should be fine. when you do kick, make sure it's a smooth, solid kick with a follow through. a quick jab doesn't work nearly as well.

    You could also adjust your pilot screw a bit to richen it up, but careful doing this - too rich and you'll flood it easily, which is something you definitely don't want to do!

    (TT's have more power (maybe due to cams, compression etc?) and better suspension than the XT, but they don't have a cush drive)

  15. What is a cush drive? And why is it good? Google is not providing answers- I've learned that it dampens vibrations at the rear wheel, but why would I want this? Longer chain/sprocket life? Wheel bearings? Smoother ride?

    I didn't mean to insult the mighty XT, different bikes, completely different purposes.
  16. Generally, singles need cush drive rear wheels to ease the shocks of the power pulses. Some have them built into the gearbox though. They do the same thing.
  17. cush drive is a bunch of rubber blocks between the sprocket and hub - they absorb a bit of the shock from the power pulses that are inherent to a big torquey single. i think primarily they are there to improve chain life.

    usually not present on more dirt oriented machines, as wheel slip does the job. lack of a cush drive is nothing to worry about really (and i could be wrong anyway, or if the motard wheels have custom hubs, they could have cush drives in them)