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Kendra's new eyes

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Necros87, Jul 13, 2013.

  1. #1 Necros87, Jul 13, 2013
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2013
    so i guess its about time for me to do a writeup of what i have been up to on Kendra (my 2010 z750) for the last month.
    since daylight savings finished, i have been having to use my headlights to get home, hand have been quite disappointed with them, so i went looking for modifications.
    i decided to go for a full HID projector retrofit. and after much procrastination, i found these guys:

    now, these guys sell proper HID retrofit gear, and their customer service (both pre and post sale) is top notch, im not sure i have found better.

    ok ok, before i get to in depth, heres the TLDR version:


    i have some output photos, they will be coming soon.
    • Like Like x 1
  2. #2 Necros87, Jul 13, 2013
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2013
    ok, so your still with me, good. now comes the interesting stuff.

    i decided to go for the Mini H1 projector kit for the ease of installation
    item specifics:
    Mini H1 projectors
    Mini Gatling gun shrouds
    Morrimoto 3five ballasts
    Morrimoto XB35 H1 4300k bulbs
    cycle H7 dual out harness
    AMP extenders
    H4 to H7 extension addapter
    H4 to 2 hi solenoid adapter

    for those who are interested, my stock headlight was 2xH7, 1 for hi and 1 for low.
    but my stock harness had H4 connectors. the H4 to H7 adapter was what held the bulb into the reflector. this is why everything above is for H4.

    so i ordered the set (cost me just under 400 shipped) and it finally arrived, excitedly, i went straight out and started to pull my bike apart


    in the oven at 120 for 7mins to soften up the glue


    i went on and fitted one of the projectors to the reflector housing to check for clearances.

    *many bad words and shouting*

    there was no way in hell that they were going to fit in there as they were intended

    so... onto plan B. now i hadnt fooled myself into thinking it was going to be easy.... but i had hoped. on to making custom plates.
    Luckily, the adjusting points on the stock reflector were on their own separate plates, so i could simply bolt them onto the plate i was making:


    so that was a little win.

    after a weekend of playing around with many tools


    we came up with this:

  3. #3 Necros87, Jul 13, 2013
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2013
    and i bet you think that this is prety much the end of this thread

    ... you would be wrong. this also put the projectors too far forward, and a little high asewell.

    *much more profanities, yelling and drinking*
    this was a blow that i hadnt expected. but i did spin it a little to my advantage.

    you see, i was worried about the left projector wobeling because it is just kind of hanging out there, so i decided to make a second plate to put in front of this one so it would push it back about 15mm and down about 8mm. so the next weekend i came up with this:



    this came extremely close to fitting, just some minor adjustments.
    here is it mocked up with the shrouds on.


    *celebratory profanities and drinking*

    so i did some modifying to the plates and took them to my spray booth


    they will be mostly covered, this was mainly for rust proofness and reflecriveness
  4. #4 Necros87, Jul 13, 2013
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2013
    so now the drawing board was back out, this time for form instead of function. time to work out how to make it pretty :)

    this part had me stumped. i tried some forming of ABS without the desired outcome. then i came across this:

    that sparked my creativity, so i went to officeworks in the hunt for some genuine Kawasaki projector shroud material... didnt quite find that, but i did find this:


    and they looked close enough. so the designing began
    note the piece of cardboard behind the left projector that has been scribbled on. this was to see how it would look with blue shields. see further for information on this.


    mocked up


    so i had that pretty much sorted, so i left that in case i came up with any further improvements.

    my attention turned to the shields. this is the part of the projector that blocks some of the beam so you have a nice cutoff so you dont blind other people on the road. also, it drops away allowing more light to come out above the cutoff, giving high beam.
    me spraying these is purely for aesthetics, although some people say that the extra beesdick of paint on the edge helps define the cutoff... i just like the idea of pretty blue eyes for my Kendra

    so once again to my spray booth


    the final product:


    here you can see the solenoid that moves the shield up and down for the high beam
  5. #5 Necros87, Jul 13, 2013
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2013
    for the above, i used 'Duplicolor Metal Cast' paint, rated to something like 500 degrees which is good, cause t would get hot 30mm away from a HID bulb.

    now my attention went to the wiring. this part was prob the simplest. BUT WAIT! i had to be clever.

    i didnt want the HIDS starting up while the bike was cranking, i believe that the bulbs dont like that, not to mention, you are taking a fair amount of current away from the starter motor. so i got my electronics geek on and came up with a simple circuit that allowed me to turn the headlights on when i wanted them.
    what i wanted to do: flash the high beams to turn the headlights on. the headlights would then stay on until the bike was turned off.
    now, because the stock harness was powering a relay for the HID harness, i didnt need anything too robust, so i went for this circuit:

    1x SCR
    1x Diode
    simple huh?

    the SCR could be described as a 'latching transistor'. basically what it does is, waits for a pulse from the trigger, then closes the circuit. it also holds it closed while there is current flowing.
    the Diode stops anything from being fed back up the high beam... i dont want that latched on
    heres a pic of my awesome circuit:


    the diode is on the back.
    i gave this a coat of conformal coating, a sort of gooey paint that gets everywhere, makes the circuit resistant to moisture and growths.
    i then covered it over with glue lined heatshrink, this will make it as water proof as possible without resorting to a ball of epoxy.

    so wired up the rest of the bike, placed the ballasts and relay under the seat, ran the modified trigger wire and the AMP extenders under the tank, hooked it up, tested, all good :D

    then i needed to make sure the projectors were aligned with each other, and level.
    because they are on the same plate, they will not be independently adjustable unfortunately.


    ok, so got that done, now back to the job i had been avoiding, making something to cover the mess

    this is the final cut. i made the holes too small, and too far apart, this was so the plastic would flex to make this shape


    this pic really brings out the blue in her eyes ;)

    at this point, i was pretty exited that it was almost done, so i have no more photos until it is finished.

    so i put a couple of blobs of superglue on the back edge of the custom shroud to glue to the projectors themselves.
    then took the bulbs back out, and put in the oven at 120 for 7 mins again, to soften up the glue to put the housing back together.

    put it back together, in the front faring, onto the bike.
    connected all the wiring

    ah crap, wont adjust low enough. spent about another 10 mins trying to get it working, but it was late sunday night, and i didnt want to screw anything up .
    so i went to bed.

    after i came back from work on monday, i had a great idea. i placed a washer under some of the mounting points of the headlight, which pushed the whole thing to point down just enough

    *much celebratory profanities, but no drinks just yet*

    i took her for a much deserved blat. oh my god, i never realised how much i missed riding (mind you, it was raining for 3 of the 4 weeks she was off the road... so that made it easier)

    *celebratory drinks now*

    so i took her to work on tuesday. first observation:
    FORKING COLD, my heated grips had blown up

    on the way home, i went down the old road, my forking dog, they are so awesome. i wish that the high beam was... higher. there is still not quite enough light up high for those times you are properly leaned over, but apart from that, awesome

    so, my thoughts on the whole process:
    1) i wish i had have known that the mini H1's wouldnt have fitted the way that they were meant to, i would have gone for the FX-R's to get some better output.
    2) i wish i had the time to be able to take my time with the whole process. dont get me wrong, i didnt cut (too many) corners, but i did want to get her back on the road

    my thanks go out to The retrofit source.
    the good:
    second to none customer service
    unique products
    they really know their stuff.

    the bad:
    took a week to ship. i believe this was them getting my special bits made up
    i recieved a, what looked like, second hand projector. i emailed them about it with pics, and they sent one out that day. even told me not to send the other one back cause it would cost too much.

    thanks also to a pommie friend, he always wants to cut corners, and find the easiest and quickest way, but gave me some perspective and plenty of help (even if most of that help was directed at emptying my liquor cabinet).

    i am planning on taking some more photos, mainly of the output (with a fancy camera) and of course, the fancy shot by the hawksbery.
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Nice work. Like your SCR latch & the High-beam guillotine.

    I'd watch the Office Works shroud stuff though. I don't know how it will like the heat from the HIDs, might melt over something you important. Maybe some thin aluminium instead - easy to work.
  7. i did think of this, so before i closed it all up, i left the lights on for an hour with the shroud on it. it got a tiny bit softer (to be expected) but no sign of deformation.

    i also just did a putty run with some of the crew here (very bumpy parts) and the lights still work, they are still aligned, and the shroud is still looking as it did.

    the main problem i see with it at this point, is the UV possibly perishing it.
  8. I used some of that plastic for ventilation ducting in a PVR and knew how soft it is at room temp.

    UV damage would be a slow process I'm guessing. Bumps were a good test.
  9. Wow, that's a fantastic result.