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Kawasaki GPX reving in gear issue

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by ShadowGT, Nov 12, 2011.

  1. I'm not sure exactly how to describe my problem but i'll try my hardest. Just got home from doing the Choc Mill group ride (which was great by the way) All day my bike ran fine, no issues as far as i could tell till it came time for the trip home. on the freeway in 5th & 6th after i went over about 9k RPM the bike would all of a sudden rev up into the high rpm's but that power didnt feel like it was getting transferred to the road but if i let off the throttle or just held it for a few seconds it would drop back to about 9k rpm and continue like normal.

    Also as i was getting closer to home and was going slower speeds i was having to rev the bike extra hard to get the same amount of performance i was getting just riding it normally earlier today & i managed to get it stuck in neutral a few times as i got near home i don't know weather that was me or the gear box though.

    Sorry i can't be more technical but it was hard to describe what the bike was doing. I'll take it for another ride tommorow & see if the issue persists.

    Bike is a 1998 Kawasaki GPX & it had only been serviced about 4 weeks ago.
  2. Your clutch is dead and needs to be replaced ASAP

    Make sure at the last service no-one put the wrong oil with friction-modifiers in it which may have killed the clutch if that was the case. How many k's does it have?
  3. About 66100ish km's i think, i've only had the bike about 3 & a bit weeks but the previous owner looked after it well & got it serviced for me before i took ownership.
  4. your clutch is slipping take it to a shop asap
  5. How much roughly am i looking at to get the Clutch adjusted/fixed?

    go figure this has to happen when i don't have the money to fix it....
  6. Took it for another ride this morning. Clutch is most definably slipping. Slipping point on the clutch seems different too or should i say almost non existent, i had to let the clutch out nearly all the way when starting in first this morning. It luckily didn't get stuck in neutral again. If i ride the bike like a grandma it is atleast rideable but giving it even just a bit to much power is making the clutch slip. can anyone give me a estimate on the cost of getting the clutch fixed or replaced? or even better point me in the direction of a good motorcycle mechanic in melbourne as i honestly don't know any motorcycle mechanics.
  7. Head here http://www.sixtydegrees.com.au/ THey should be able to give you a rough quote over the phone for the replacement of the clutch. Great bunch of people as well.
  8. Is there any free play at the clutch lever? It should have a few mm free movement before you feel the resistance of the clutch springs. If there is no free play they might have tightened it too much at the service and this would give the symptoms you describe. Its unlikely, but worth checking before you spend time/money.
    If you are at all mechanically inclined, then rebuilding the clutch is not difficult, but I'd advise against DIY if you're not sure which end of a metric shifter is which.
  9. Untill the symptoms started the clutch leaver was fine but now in 1st at least it only "grips" right at the end of releasing it resulting in some jumpy starts from 1st. Once moving though the leaver feels like its gripping in its normal spot. It's still slipping though if i try to ride with any amount of power. Clutch doesnt slip as much though if i ride really sedately & shift slowly ( i normally shift very quick i hope that isnt damaging the clutch?)

    I have the mechanical knowledge of a potato so i dont think i could DIY it. Could anyone give a rough estimate at the cost of repair? all i could find was prices for Clutch replacements on cars & they were about $700....
  10. Why don't you just take it to a mechanic?
  11. Well it's the weekend i don't think any will be open, Also i wanted to get a idea of what was wrong & the general cost to fix it so that i don't go to a mechanic & get ripped off with a full service or something that i don't need & can't afford.
  12. Is it safe enough to ride to a mechanic during the week? Be careful!
  13. Just buy a manual and the parts,mechanics arent brain surgeons,and they can do it.
    It will be fun ,what could go wrong
  14. With me alot! trust me on that...

    And yes it should be ok to ride to a mechanic aslong as i nurse it along.
  15. 66k out of a clutch on a high revving thing like a GPX is not all that bad.

    Don't keep riding it - fix it. At this point, your friction plates will probably be worn to nothing but there's a reasonable chance your drive plates are in spec and fine. If you keep trying to get around on it, your drive plates will be cooked and worn out or warped, and they will need to be changed as well.

    If the friction plates have worn out and been changed once or twice before (entirely possible) then you might as well change the lot. The labour cost of having somebody do it will be about the same, and adding the drive plates to the list of things should add about ... not very much to the overall cost. Then it shouldn't need any more work beyond normal adjustment for another 60k or so.

    I'll post this and then see what I can find on price for GPX clutch kits ...

    [edit] Ok - after a little reading.

    A friction plate (after market) seems to sell for about $17. I think you need about 5 of them. I haven't seen a price on a drive plate. - specific to the GPX - but the ones I have seen seem to sell (try saying that drunk) for about the same as the friction plates. So, going for after market and generic parts, you're looking at about $100 if you just get the friction plates, and about $200 if you change everything. With a bit of luck your mechanic can get the side off and change the clutch without messing up the clutch cover gasket, but you can't count on it. If he tears it and doesn't change it, you will have an oil leak. If he removes it and does a DIY job with silicon, it might work and it might result in drops of silastic blocking oil supply. I would get a new clutch cover gasket as part of the job - just in case. That may be $5 or it may be $50 - I have no way of knowing.

    Kawasaki (like most other car and bike companies) make and sell parts. They sell them to the dealers. The dealers then sell them to you. Kawasaki don't tell us how much they charge the dealers, and don't tell the dealers how much to charge the public. Want a price? Ring the dealer. Can't help you out much there.

    I've changed a few clutches on naked 4 cylinder 1100s, as a complete mechanical bimbo, and it took me a couple of hours. A race mechanic in a hurry can do it in 20 minutes or less. How much stuff has to come off a GPX I don't know. Labour time might be one hour or less, or it may go up to two. If they ask for 6 - call the cops.

    Ask for a firm quote first. Ask how many hours of labour it should take to change clutch plates (drive and driven) on a GPX. Maybe ring several places and ask. Maybe look up 'motorcycle mechanic - independent' in the yellow pages as well as 'Kawasaki'.

    Without having any hard figures and just guessing, I think $300 for the job would be quite reasonable, $400 would be a bit steep but excusable, and $500 or more would be people taking advantage of you.

    There's a lot more work in getting the clutch out of a car than a bike. The degree of complexity and the number of steps are not that different, but the car is bigger and heavier and more awkward and dirty and unpleasant. You have to work upside down in the dark with parts that could crush you if they fell - it isn't fun. Bikes are much easier and more pleasant.
  16. I agree with the dragon, but just try loosening the adjuster on the cable at the clutch lever a bit just to see if it helps.

    That's the bit at the top right of the photo, you loosen the big knurled lock nut then screw the inner bit into the bracket 1 or 2 turns, then re-tighten the lock nut.

  17. I'll try with some prices off the top of my head and not having done service quoting in about a year. It's not a massive job to replace the clutch and everything should be easy enough to get too. most of my experience is with dirt bike clutches and you could get a full clutch kit for under 200 and probably 2 hrs labour so basically under 400...hopefully. Don't quote me on that however aftermarket kits should be available and it will probably only require the replacement of the fibre plates which will reduce the cost of parts significantly, i hope this gives you a bit of an idea and isn't too far off
  18. +1 Before you commit top repairing the clutch make sure your adjustment is correct.

    Although I can't think of anything which would cause such a sudden change in adjustment, so it is more likely to be the clutch. But costs nothing to check.
  19. Agree with The Mole, and GreyBM. Worth a try, but ...

    Is there still any tension on the cable when the clutch lever is fully out? Like, is the lever waggling around loose at the end of its stroke and for the first few mm of the pull, before there starts to be any tension? Because if the cable is still tight (relatively) when the lever is right out, you may be able to loosen off the adjustment and buy yourself some time.

    As Mole says, back off the lock ring, then screw the adjuster into the bracket a bit. Start with two turns and see if that helps. If you get to the point where the cable is loose when the lever is out, and it doesn't start to pull on anything until the lever is half way in, then that's all the adjustment that was available. Revert to plan 'A'. Change the clutch.

    PS - if I'm reading my web stuff right, then the friction plates (at least) on the GPX are the same as the ones on a RM250, amongst other things ...

    Link to pic because the pic is huge ...

    "RM250/GPX/GPZ/KR/KLX/ZX CLUTCH PLATE THICKNESS 3mm 130880-1013 13088-1051 13088-1105 13088-1089"
  20. I'm not sure if i follow you? When the clutch is out in its normal position it doesn't shake or waggle or anything like that. pulling it in is just a smooth motion with what i'd assume is a normal amount of resistance all of the way.