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Kawasaki Eliminator VN250

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by troppo55, Oct 17, 2014.

  1. Just wondering if anyone has modified the stock exhaust on a Kawasaki Eliminator VN250? The stock is sewing machine quiet so just looking for some extra growl. I'm considering swapping to a tapered turbo exhaust (below) but not sure how loud this will be.

    Also considering some straight pipes (after seeing the nice conversion below) but it might be out of the budget. I really have no idea on this stuff, and I've also read about needing to rejet the carby after an exhaust mod, but not sure if the slip on would need it.

    Any advice much appreciated!

  2. There are a million cheap slip ons on eBay that u could use. U just need to measure the diameter of current exhaust. Im assuming current one just either slides on is bolted. Shouldn't be too hard to do. U obviously won't know how it sounds until the job is done. If u end up finding it too loud u can just slide a baffle up the end to quiten it down abit. U don't HAVE to change carby jets either.
  3. Easy fixed. Did mine 2 years ago and have had no problems. Don't need to alter jets or mixture either. To proceed look at the end of your muffler. The exhaust comes out through a 35mm approx. pipe. Buy a metal holesaw that fits loosely over the outside of this pipe. Use holesaw in battery drill and with holesaw over the pipe drill through the end plate. Next get a holeswaw about 15mm bigger than the first and drill out the end plate. You have removed a washer shaped piece leaving a 10mm gap around the centre pipe. Thats it, fire her up and listen to the difference. Be aware that carbon and muck will blow out for awhile then it will settle. Can give you holesaw sizes if you need them.
    I derestricted the carbies on mine as well and its made a big difference to performance. Shouldn't do this if you are on license restrictions though - HP goes up around 30%
    You may see the exhaust mod on my bike in showcase on netrider .
  4. #4 troppo55, Oct 17, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
    Cheers for the info guys! 'East Coast Cruiser' - Definitely keen to try the holesaw method out. If you have the holesaw sizes that would be great - thanks for the idea, so simple! How did you stop the washer shaped piece from dropping inside the muffler when you were cutting? Or isn't that an issue....

    Not sure if i need to derestrict the carby... from reading it seems that models after 2005/6 were no longer restricted, and mine is a 2007 model. Not sure how to measure this correctly tho, I can hit 150km/hr easy enough but I'm changing gears like a madman around town. More low end torque would be nice... I've already added a tooth to my front sprocket to address this, might go one higher again though. The bike has more than enough grunt in 1st, even with passenger.

    I checked your showcase too but couldn't see the exhaust mod that well, not sure if i'm not doing it right.. i get the idea though. Can't wait to hear the difference!
  5. Will post the holesaw cutter sizes tomorrow. The "washer" ends up coming out inside the bigger cutter so no problems there. The baffles and centre pipe are untouched just by-passed so no muffler strength issues and still looks standard - just sounds 2-3 times louder and torque increases as engine can breathe better. 2007 bikes are not restricted but this exhaust mod helps.
  6. Thanks again for the info, looking forwards to getting this done!
  7. OK, a 36mm holeswaw just fits over the inner pipe (exhaust tube), a 51mm slips inside the next false decorative pipe end cutting out a 10mm approx. washer and leaving the muffler looking original and the muffler end cover cap intact. Enjoy.
  8. Thanks again!
  9. I ended up drilling holes instead of using a holesaw as metal ones were pricey. Happy with the result though... thanks for the advice @East Coast Cruiser@East Coast Cruiser, its like a new bike now :)

    I also made a quick vid for any otherVN250 owners who might be keen to do the same thing:

    • Informative Informative x 1
  10. Hey troppo55, glad you are happy with the result. Mine is "a bit"noisy but I am on the open roads mostly so it keeps me amused especially thru the mountain passes with the sound bouncing back off the cutting walls.
    You might want to get someone to ride with you and check your speedo is accurate. Mine is out (reading lower than actual) by 10%. It cost me 2 points and $80 the other day when the local police "verified" the error. I thought I was sitting on 105 enjoying the sweepers heading up the mountain to Lake Leake. Nup - was 117 . Just as well they hadn't shot me going downhill. :finger:
    Noticed you wanted more torque down low. Increasing the front sprocket will give you more top end speed but cut your torque down low, hence all the gear changing.
    Enjoy the bike they are a lot of fun. :headphone:
  11. Hmm I'll definitely check the speedo... not keen on any more fines than I deserve either!

    With the front sprocket, I was looking to just space the gears out more, so I didn't need to change out of 1st at 15km/hr, within 3 meters of moving off the line etc. I assumed going up one tooth would help. She's got more than enough torque in 1st so happy with that part .I can push her to about 20km/hr now so I assume it worked.... but... will going down 1 on the front be a better idea still? I'm still not that sure what I'm doing in this regard!
  12. If you go down 1 front tooth you will cut your top end speed slightly but get more power (torque) in the lower range so you can ride around town able to accelerate easily in 4-5-6th without all the gear changing you seem to be doing at present. Eliminators have a six speed box to avoid flat acceleration spots found with 5 speed small engine bikes. 1st is low and only needed on hill starts get to 4-5th for traffic and you should be able to range from 20 to 80kph without changing down easily. Mind you now it sounds better you might enjoy changing gears more often. Increasing the front sprocket is like putting 6th gear in your 5 speed car, your engine will not rev as high but will lack power in this overdrive gearing. To get more power you would need to change down a gear and allow the engine to work better. I run standard sprockets and jump to 2nd as soon as I get rolling , shame you can't start off in 2nd but the gearbox won't allow it.
  13. thanks for the info, makes sense. you're right, now the bike sounds better I'm not worried about gear changes... just happy listening to the new growl really! now its time for a few other mods, new mirrors, some exhaust wrap maybe... such a fun bike to ride around so might as well make her look a bit better.
  14. I know this is an old post, but thought this may help anyone in the future with this quiet exhaust problem...


    Try this. 2" straight through stainless steel pipes. Original exhaust flanges used, and sounds great.

    Quite loud when idling, but not too loud when cruising along, just loud enough to let people know you're there.

    I didn't do this mod, as I bought the bike with this exhaust already on it, so I can't give a ballpark price, but I bet any exhaust shop could do it for you. Good luck...