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Just put a new chain on but it doesnt feel right.

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Meyerhoff, Feb 2, 2015.

  1. cbf250


    These nuts dont seem to be in alignment. Is that normal? I also feel that the back brake locks up much easier now than it used to. I also noticed that when in gear and given throttle i can hear a very slight high pitched scratching noise, like sleigh bells. But im not sure if thats relevant.
  2. Make sure the wheel is aligned straight by matching the 'notches' on the swingarm on either side. Your first photo shows you're on notch 2, but I can't make out the other side, seems to be missing something. Also, looking at pic 1, that metal bracket seems to have previously been fitted the other way around (look at the old oil/dirt outline below the nut, seems to match the bracket above). Is that possibly on upside down??
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Definitely looks upside down. Have a look at this pic.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Make sure your replacement chain is the correct amount of links.
    And it is adjusted correctly,also if you change the chain you should do sprockets also.
    The rear bracket does appear to be on upside down.
  5. I thought the sprocket teeth seemed alright judging by the manual. That bracket thing does appear to be wrong. Which makes sense now that i noticed the pictogram has been scraped whereas before it was fine.

    The notches dont match up at all which is why i think something is wrong, but no amount of adjusting seems to make any difference. Workshop manual i have is no help at all.

    Also Im fairly sure i got the count right on the chain. That was a whole other saga. I broke 2 chain breakers. But does the master link count as one of the links?

    Ive been adjusting it whilst its been up on a race stand. Could that possibly make a difference?
  6. its great to see so many people doing there own maintenance
  7. You cannot rely on the swing arm marks being accurate. You need to put the bike on it's centre stand and use a straight-edge/piece of string to measure the offset. There's more than likely some youtubes on the subject.

    Once aligned, adjustment is easy. Just turn each adjuster bolt the same number of 'flats'.
  8. #9 lui, Feb 4, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2015
    You really should replace the chain and sprockets at the same time, the old sprockets will wear out the new chain faster. Chain usually costs more to replace, so you don't want it to be ruin by less costly sprockets.

    For future reference, to remove the old chain, it's easier to grind off the pin head than forcing it out. You can use a grinder, a drill with grinding disk, or Dremel.

    And yes, the joining link also counts. If you think about it, you can't have odd number of links, always even number.

    The more accurate method to ensure alignment is by measuring the distance between the swing arm pivot and rear axle, make sure both sides are equal. There are chain alignment tools out there (a metal rod or laser guide), but they usually require removal of the chain guard, so I wouldn't bother.

    Also as you tighten the axle nut, sometimes the axle can move a little bit, so make sure to apply pressure against the rear tyre to prevent that.
  9. I use a laser tool for aligning my chain (Profi Cat) and there's no need to remove anything. Works brilliantly. :D
    • Informative Informative x 1
  10. Cheers for that, will have to look into it.

    I must confess I have been lazy and relying on counting the dots. My last pair of rear pads worn at an angle which suggests the rear wheel wasn't perfectly aligned. I can and should do better. :)
  11. Getting the rear wheel properly aligned will also free up a little power, reduce fuel consumption (very small effect), reduce wear on the chain and sprockets, make the chain quieter, and reduce unnecessary wear on the rear tyre, not to mention prevent an odd "crabbing" feeling that the rear end seems to want to track off to one side very slightly and the odd excessive brake pad wear already mentioned. In all it's a few minutes work that only needs to be done rarely but pays off significantly.
  12. 1) Put bike on rear stand and loosen rear wheel & adjuster nuts
    2) Push rear wheel as far forward as possible
    3) Evenly pull back on the rear wheel to pull up most of the chain slack
    4) Hand tighten the inner adjuster nuts, confirm that the wheel is still straight
    5) Use a spanner to tigthen the chain to spec. Remember this is done from the tightest chain spot
    6) Tighten rear wheel and double check chain slack - use adjust nuts as necessary
    7) Once done, tighten rear wheel & outer adjuster nuts

    Don't forget your cotter pin or safety wire
  13. Linkin is on the ball with the adjusting procedure but I'd like to add that your bike has drum brake rear end and so needs to have the control rod adjusted.

    This will be why your brake feel has changed since fitting the new chain.