Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Jordan earns two spanners

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Iondah, Feb 25, 2008.

  1. Saturday afternoon I finally got around to putting new brake pads in my bike. After a couple of weeks of working out what tools I needed, waiting for my manual to be delivered I finally worked up the courage to give it a go, mostly due to having forked out for the break pads and a Torx socket set to operate on the calipers.

    After reading and re-reading the instructions I got to work and installed the new pads without and dramas, all pretty straight-forward. I was all done in about 2 hours and I now have brand new pads :grin:

    I know it's not a big deal to all you petrol-heads but it's the first real bit of work I've done on the bike myself and I'm quite proud. According to the difficulty rating in the manual I have now earned myself 2 spanners :grin:

    Next thing I have to do is a coolant flush, which should be pretty straight-forward but a bit more time consuming I think.
  2. Lol, it's always slow the first time, but 2 hours is something else!

    I usually time any work in beers. Brake pads; half a beer. Valve clearances; 3 beers. Oil change; 2 beers. With your current pace and in the interests of safety, I suggest you don't do the same! :p :LOL:
  3. Well Done :beer:
    I've never done a coolant flush on the hornet .. is it necessary? :?
  4. :rofl: put the last two posts together; beer coolant?? :rofl:
  5. BRAKE
  6. Beer break ? :?
  7. Sure is, every 3 years or so. Especially if it is no longer a bright green.

    It's easy enough to do.

    1) Remove radiator cap and coolant overflow tank connection. Drain overflow tank.

    2) Remove lowest cooling system drainage point from the engine, could be a bolt at the water pump or a hose.

    3) Remove lowest drainage fitting on the radiator - the bottom hose frequently travels upwards to the engine.

    4) Use plain water to flush out the system, including the overflow/expansion tank. Then use 2 to 4 litres of demineralised water, sold at supermarkets in the laundry section, and at auto stores, for the final flush. Should cost less than $1 a litre.

    5) Purchase a good antifreeze inhibitor, suitable for alloy engines. (This should be point 1, since you can't ride to the store after you drain the system without it!) I use Mobil.

    6) Mix 1:1 coolant to demin water. Or adjust to suit if your bike recommends a different mix. Refit all drains and add coolant mixture - always mix it outside the bike!

    7) Add coolant to the expansion tank with the hose not connected - let it fill the hose before connecting it to the radiator.

    8) Start the engine and let it get warm enough to circulate water. Some systems can trap air at the lower points. Let it cool before opening the radiator cap to top up any missing fluid. You can only do this reliably when the engine is cold and the coolant is at its least expanded point.

    Make sure all connections are not leaking. Ride.

    If your coolant is a brown or yellow colour, someone has been adding tap water, or worse. The minerals and contaminants turn "muddy" or just build up in the system to reduce its cooling efficiency. You will need something to separate and flush out this muck.

    If the coolant is clear then it doesn't contain coolant! Change it fast. This causes alloy corrosion which will eat cylinder heads, especially near the head gasket and oil galleries.


    Trevor G

    Trevor G
  8. 9) Some systems have a bleed point.
  9. If anyone wants to show me how to work on 2t engines i'll pay many beers. :grin:
  10. Thanks Trev !!
    It's now on my do-to list, possibly before I leave for the WSB.
    Cheers mate