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Introducing the SnotOiler - now with photos

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Chairman, Jan 25, 2007.

  1. I've always liked the idea of a Scottoiler, but not the price tag. So I figured I'd build my own.

    My standard design requirements are:
    use whatever's in the shed
    off-the shelf wherever possible
    easily repairable.

    The block diagram for the oiler is pretty simple - a reservoir, a valve so it only runs when the bike is on, something to regulate the flow and a delivery system that puts the oil on the chain.

    Reservoir is easy - I used a large syringe with a small (0.7mm) breather hole so it doesn't form a vacuum. ($5) This is a temporary measure and I'll be fitting a permanent one shortly - probably an aluminium hobby box from an electronics shop.

    Delivery was straightforward - 3mm copper pipe from a hobby shop ($3) and a scrap of aquarium hose.

    Flow regulation - an adjustable garden dripper from Bunnings ($1.55)

    Finally, the valve. This was the tricky bit. I got a small engine vacuum advance unit from the wrecker ($5) and mounted on a backing plate. The actuating arm on the advance is pinned to a 6mm piston, sliding in a cylinder. The piston has two o-rings, and, when retracted, a pair of ports are open to one another and oil flows. The advance unit is plumbed into the intake manifold on an existing vacuum port. When the engine runs, the advance unit pulls the piston, opening the valve. I machined the piston and cylinder in about an hour - I did them on a lathe but they could be done with a power drill without too much trouble.

    The system now delivers a drop of chainsaw chain bar oil ($7/litre) every 45sec. Chain is moist, no oil on the tyre.

    Other expenses were some 4mm "beverage line" from the home brewing shop ($2) and a few bits of brass salvaged from my scaps bin

    There you go. It isn't an example of fine aesthetics, but it works and it was cheap - oiled chain for under $25. Introducing the 'It's not a ScottOiler" ( or 'SnotOiler' for short ).
  2. Let me be the first to say...


  3. pics pics and more pics...
  4. Nice!
    So does that mean if you're idling your bike for a few minutes without moving, that the oil continues to drop every 45 seconds and starts to puddle under the bike?
  5. Yes, I'm afraid it does. In reality, the first few drips stay on the chain. But idling from more than a few minutes does leave a couple of drops. I originally planned to use the clutch actuating arm as the "pump", which would have solved this problem (by squirting oil on each gear change) but gave this away when I thought about where I needed an oiler most - long country trips with few gear changes, and the problem of over-oiling in city riding

    Here's the pipe to the rear sprocket, showing the drip regulator

    And here's the vacuum valve. The whole unit is about 6cm long and fits inside the seat fairing.

    On the left is the vacuum advance unit. In the centre you can see the linkage (look for the green plastic bush in the centre of the photo - that's the link) and the box on the right is the cylinder. It's really just a tiny master cylinder. Of the three pipes, the closest one goes to the reservoir, the lowest one goes to the dripper and the one on the left to the carby manifold.

  6. That f'n good work!!

    I love the automatic shut off vaccuum driven valve. That's just too fancy by about 0.55 !

  7. wow nice...
  8. Hey Chairman, where does the drop of oil actually go? - onto the middle of the chain roller? - Off to one side or the other to cover the o ring?

    Just curious. Either way, it's gotta be better than the routine squirt of chain lube.

    Your excellent work got me thinking about the loobman... a decidedly manual snotoiler, but it has a dual sided delivery system that delivers oil to both sides of the sprocket at the same time.

    Loz has one of these and doesn't mind it, though considers it a bit messy and not very aethetic...
  9. It goes onto the rear sprocket, about 5mm in from the chain. Centrifugal force flings it the last few mm onto the sideplate of the chain. It only goes on one side, but some magic must be happening because both sides of the chain are getting oil (using the scientifically controlled "do I get a greasy finger" test). It's just like the system on this photo:


    I've looked at the loobman system and it is quite clever. I'll do some thinking... (Chairman heads for shed with beer).
  10. I like it. Especially the simplicity and adjustability of it.

    Regards, Andrew.
  11. Chairman, what are your thoughts on allowing a drop of oil with a lengthier period of time between oil drop release? Would this still allow sufficient lubrication of the chain during longer trips whilst reducing the chance of a small puddle if idling for a period of time?
  12. As everyone else said

  13. well done Mr Chairman :applause: :applause: :applause: :applause: :applause:
    reverse engineering at its finest :cool:

    For a more permanent reservoir, may I suggest an empty plastic sauce squeeze bottle, available in many sizes, and flavours.

  14. wasn't there at some point some heavy duty nylon sprockets? meaning they're unbreakable dont wear down cause its not metal rubbing on metal and therefore you never neded to lube your chain? i talked to someone about this a while ago................or maybe it was a dream not sure
  15. Great work
    I have mucked around with a similar setup,just a bit simpler.
    One remote resevoir mounted near the rear blinker running a clear hose toward the chain then sticking a smaller hose inside then to two inline hardie pope microjet on/off taps.The plan is to drop oil at the rate of 1 per minute.This tap is preset and not touched thereafter.
    The other tap is the on/off when you stop.
    I have used MOBIL chain and bar oil.$8/litre.Nice and thin.
    As I said I am still mucking around with it.
  16. What about a rear brake fluid reservoir instead?
    I used to have an NX650 Dominator, I chucked the black plastic can that the crankcase breather lead to ( a catch can I suppose ? ), and found that ity sprayed a little bit of engine oil.
    So I cable-tied the breather down so it was aimed right at the chain. The oil flow from the breather was enough to keep the chain wet with oil, but not enough to make a great mess as the excess flew off the chain.
    I don't know if engine oil makes a good chain oil but it did the job.