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Installing a doorway in a load bearing internal wall

Discussion in 'The Pub' at netrider.net.au started by mjt57, Oct 30, 2008.

  1. I'm trying to find info on the best (read safest and proper) way to install a door in a load bearing wall.

    I get a few American websites but little else.

    If there are any carpenters here or anyone who may know a good Australian website that I can check out, the information would be muchly appreciated.

    I'd be getting a builder to do it IF I could get one to either quote or commit.

    The other week we got the Grey Army around. The guy goes over the jobs and says that he'll "get back to us".

    A week goes by before we hear anything. He advised us that our job isn't worth his time to do. But don't count him out if we need anything done in the future. Two other builders, supposedly specialing in rennos came to check the job but we never heard back.

    Others that we ring, we get answering machines, leave our details. No follow up from them despite us calling back.

    So, we're getting a tad desperate. I'd have a go at it myself if I had all the correct info to hand, but I don't.


     
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  2. How big a door, brick or timber???
     
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  3. The space that a door takes up isn't normally an issue - even for a load-bearing wall.

    Simply run a stud from the bottom-plate to the top-plate of the wall on either side of the doorway at the position and width you need.
    Making sure you allow extra width for the door jam, hinges and some slack.

    i.e. if you putting in a 820mm wide door and using 19mm thick door jam, then your two studs need to be around 870 apart.

    While doing the construction, just to keep yourself reassured :- you can support (prop) the beam of the ceiling / roof with the second stud. Once the first is in and doing it's support role, use the "prop" for the other stud . Ie you only need two lengths not a third for the prop.

    The only real caveat is to ensure that you use structural grade timber for the studs.

    You can then use the new studs (one either side - of course) as the frame to build upon for the doorway.
    I.e. if your door is 2040mm tall (standard door height),
    Then you put a piece of timber parallel to the floor at somewhere around 2065-2080 from the ground.

    (Depending on floor coverings...
    Are they there already - or you yet to place tiles and glue etc on the floor? - and leave a small gap of about 10mm beneath the door to allow for it to swing freely open and close.

    then put in your door jams;
    then hang your door;
    then put on the architraves.
    do relevant plastering / painting etc....
    then sit back and enjoy.

    Make sure you have appropriate noggins in place for the new studs too.

    PM if you feel the need and we chat off-line / phone about it.

    Gavin
     
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  4. Thats a pretty good guide gav just gave you. Couldnt have said it much better myself. Remember that, its always good to have a professional to help too. If you can get one. So if your unsure about your next move, check first.

    With most things building and hands on. Its a bit of trial and error.
     
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  5. Wont he need to support the top p;ate with a lintel?
     
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  6. Standard size door, 820xwhatever the height is, going into a timber stud wall that has roof supports on it. But where the door is to go there is no direct weight loading from these struts.
     
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  7. this may help:

    from the 'australian owner builders manual' by allen staines:

    lintels

    nogging
     
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