As a total virgin to doing electrical mods on the bike, this seemed like a nice easy intro - installing a 12V accessory socket. Handy for GPS power, phone charging and even the small 12V air compressors that fit in some underseat storage. After some research, it seemed there were a few options. Some people recommended installing a relay so that the socket would only be powered with the ignition on. Decided against that as I didn't think it would be an issue and it would raise the complexity of the job. Others said to connect the negative socket wire to the frame as this acts as the ground. Again, seemed easier to run two wires directly back to the battery and hook them up directly. So that was the plan. Run a positive(red) wire from the battery + terminal to the socket, with a 15Amp in-line fuse in the wire, and also run a negative(black) wire from the battery - terminal to the socket. Here's what I needed: - Some red and black wire. I bought some 15Amp wire from Repco - 1.85mm thick - biggest they had. - An in-line fuse. This is a section of wire about 20cm long with a black plastic socket that the fuse goes into. See last image of battery connections below. - Some 15Amp mini-blade fuses. Note that there is a big difference between mini-blade fuses and the fuses your car uses, even though the Amperage is the same - see picture below. - Some connectors - clamp style for the blade connectors on the 12V socket and some loop connectors to fit around the bolt on the battery terminals - Some electrical tape or heat shrink tube. I used electrical tape. - A soldering iron and some solder. - Of course - a 12V accessory socket. I went to a boating store(BCF) and bought a Sutars marine-grade 12V socket. It has a rubber cap to stop water getting in when not in use. Was about $14 bucks. - 30mm hole saw - luckily I already had this. How to do it: First thing was to choose the location for the socket. I choose the left fairing just below the instrument cluster so it was available to power a GPS if required. Check for clearance from handlebars at both opposite locks while imagining a standard 12V DC plug is in the socket - you need an inch or two of clearance above the socket. You also need about 2-3 inches of clearance behind the panel for the socket and wires. Used the hole saw to drill a hole. Filed down the edges to get a good fit. The socket uses a screw-on backing collar so installation of the socket in the hole takes about 4 seconds! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/gegvasco/IMG_1234_1.jpg Cut some red and black wire to length - from socket to battery with about 10cm of play. You can use less red(positive) wire because once the in-line fuse is spliced in it will add some cable. At the end of the red wire that would go on the battery, splice in the in-line fuse using a soldering iron. To do this, strip about 1cm of insulation off the ends of the wires. Wrap the wires around each other. Press the soldering iron to the wires and once heated, press the solder to the wires(not the iron). The idea is that the wires melt the solder not the iron. That makes sure the solder penetrates the wires. Watch your fingers as the heat transfers up the wires. Once cooled, wrap in electrical tape or heat shrink wrap. Once the in-line fuse is in place, I clamped in the end connectors onto the ends of the wires and placed a small amount of solder on the ends of the clamps to hold the wire in. Also wrapped in electrical tape, especially at the exposed 12V socket end. This gave me a complete fused red(positive) and black(ground) wire "loom". After connecting the ends to the 12V socket, to keep things neat, I wrapped a little electrical tape around both wires about every 20cms to keep them together. I then fed the wire bundle through the rear of the fairing near the fuel tank and frame so that it popped out just above the engine. Making sure it wasn't resting directly on any hot parts, I routed the wire back through the frame to the battery. I used small black cable ties to hook the wire onto existing hardware to stop it from moving around - I already had a speedo healer cable(the big red one) running through the same are so I hooked it up to that. Once at the battery, I looped the excess using a cable tie to tidy things up and connected the red to the positive terminal and the black to the negative terminal. You can see the in-line fuse here. The big red cable is the speed healer cable. Works a treat. I'm sure there are better ways to do this job but it was a first attempt and only took about 60 minutes so I was pretty happy with it.