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Info on NSR250 and RGV250

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by rodgerdodger, Mar 10, 2005.

  1. I'm currently thinking about getting a 250 2 stroke and was looking for any info or opinions on the NSR and the RGV. I haven't had a look at them yet, but noticed a few people had owned/ridden them and was looking for any info on them. I've had a look around on the internet but havent found much apart from the basic specs, so I'm just looking for anything: do they need 2 stroke mix or do they have seperate tanks? Do they die unexpectedly, any years/models or problems to look out for, what models are available and whats the difference? I'm not overly tall (6"1) but is that something that'll be a problem on them? Are they a pain to get started in the mornings? Is there anything you'd want to get done/checked when you first buy one? That sort of thing. Any info would be appreciated. Cheers.


     
  2. Hey Rodger.. first things first.. I wont comment on the pros and cons of the RGV as I'm no expert on them. I've owned a 92 MC21 for the last 3 years they're a great bike with a load of performance.

    Pro's
    63hp at the rear wheel (stock is 45hp)
    Superb handling
    Featherweight 135kg
    Phenomonal acceleration
    Leave alot of bigger bikes behind in the twisties
    Performance parts/bodywork cheap and easy to get on the net from reputable suppliers.

    Cons
    Its a grey import (not so easy to get new parts when you want them)
    Be prepared to learn to do your own maintenance/repairs most workshops hate grey strokers even more than they hate strokers
    Seriously not for the inexperienced
    Kick start with a reputation for being a cow to start

    Oil injected as standard. Steer away from anything where the injection has been removed in favour of premix. Unexpected deaths are usually fuel / mixture related and associated with poor maintenance

    NSR models to avoid in my opinion
    MC18 up to about 1990 - Honda are no longer manufacturing replacement parts. A little on the downside performance wise and not as powerfull as the later models.

    MC28 94 onwards key card ignitions that inevitably seem to fail leaving you without your digital dash and cost a bomb to replace. Effective derestriction really only comes with the HRC key card which is big $$$ and then you lose the use of lights horn indicators etc

    That leaves the MC21 and the R / SE / SP variants of that. No matter what stroker you're looking at find out the acceptable compression value and do a compression check it can save you alot of grief. With the NSR's you need to look out for PGM problems and faulty servo motors which are common and easily fixed but not cheap. Power valves are extremely simple and reliable

    Theres heaps of information on the NSR's available at http://www.nsr-world.com and http://www.dreamgate.ne.jp/nsr/

    If you want to know all the ins and outs of the MC21 give me a yell. If you're in or around Melbourne and want a second opinion on an NSR I'm more than happy to help.
     
  3. They both have seperate oil tanks, no need to pre-mix (always use a top quality fully synthetic oil). No probs to start each day as long as they are kept in good nick.

    Height will be a bit of an issue (they are designed for 5ft midgets after all).

    As for buying advice:

    See how smokey it runs after it has warmed up, listen for any 'engine rattles' when reved. Personally if I brought one the first thing I'd do is have the barrels overbored and plated but I'm a bit weird.

    No 1 RGV site
     
  4. Thanks for the advice, just a few more questions as my sole experience has been with a DT175 thats never had a problem so I haven't done anything of this stuff before (and am now slightly questioning the wisdom of upgrading straight to a high performance bike). Compression checks: I know the basic idea but how much is the gauge (or whatever its called) and how difficult is it to do, is it something to get a dealer to do first time round or is it easy enough?

    Exactly how does the card start work and why was it introduced into the later models, how easy is derestriction etc? And what are the differences between the R / SE / SP? Thanks a lot.
     
  5. A reasonable quality compression tester will set you back about $40 from any decent auto store.
    (Make sure you buy the type that screws in).

    Take a plug spanner (cant remember what size right at the mo) Make sure the engine is warm remove the plug screw in the tester and with the ignition and kill switch off kick it over about 4 or 5 times absolute bare minimum it should read is 90psi lower than that and it needs the top end rebuilding and may have sustained damage from a siezure.

    Both plugs can be accessed from the right hand side fairing service panel though without removing the tank you may only be able to test the bottom cylinder.

    Due to the power these and the RGVs were pumping out the Japanese government enforced power caps on the road going versions. The MC21 can be derestricted by cutting and soldering a few wires. Honda made it deliberately harder on the MC28 where the "splice" effectively happens in conjunction with the card. The HRC card also will advance the ignition timing something the splice cant do.

    R Series - Basic road going version. Wet clutch non adjustable suspension Enkei aluminium alloy wheels slightly lower compression ratio.

    SE Series - Super Edition. Dry clutch basic adjustable suspension higher compression ratio and I think Enkei aluminium alloy wheels. Some specials like the Pentax had Magtek magnesium alloy wheels.

    SP Series - Sport Production Magtek wheels, dry clutch, fully adjustable suspension front and rear I doubt there are any genuine ones of these about they only made 2500

    Power difference between the 3 is about 1-1.5hp in stock form (who could feel that?) There are slight variances on these across the years but they are a good rule of thumb.

    Anything else just yell!
     
  6. :D I have a rolling SP frame minus the fairing. Ive got the magtek wheels and fully adjustable susperders on my non SP NSR. Got the whole lot for $300 which included braided brakelines and a top triple clamp that has handle bar mounts on it.
     
  7. Hey cowboy got a pic of that top clamp? I'd like to see it
     
  8. Again thanks, what do you mean by having the barrels overbored and plated? Why and how does this help performace/is it desirable (more the plated part as the overbored seems to speak for itself)? Probably obvious stuff but I guess heres as good a place to learn as any. Cheers.
     
  9. The cylinders on these bikes are aluminium alloy which is pretty soft and would wear quickly. So they Nikasil plate them to give the cylinder wall a hardened face that resists wear. Another advantage of the Nikasil plating is reduced friction which enhances performance.

    Just a note though if you were looking at reboring an NSR 250 I wouldnt bother. You can purchase a 300cc kit off the shelf that you can bolt on and will give you over 70hp
     
  10. Ill get a couple tonight. My housemate has a digi camera so Ill have to wait till she gets home.
     
  11. Take up this bloke's genuine offer, trust me on that. Bryan has helped me and other NSR owners in Melbourne. He's even tested out a prospective NSR I had been looking to purchase.

    :x Oi! The Pentax models were SPs: http://www.dreamgate.ne.jp/nsr/general/quickref.html ... just coz the bodywork on my Pentax NSR ain't in the fit condition to be called an SP, doesn't mean they weren't :LOL: :LOL: :cry: :cry:

    Jaimie's site and NSR-World.com have heaps of info on the NSR250.

    The main difference between the SE & SP were that SP's had MAGTEK wheels & higher compression cylinder heads. The suspension is supposed to be fully adjustable on both SE & SP [SHOWA front & Rear 8) ].

    ...where are them piccies Cowboy?