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Indicator wiring on 14 GSXR

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by andyhui01, Aug 12, 2014.

  1. Just wondering if anyone has any advice on wiring a NC Relay onto the indicator wiring for my DRL.

    Basically, I've got some DRL installed on the mirror (Where the indicators are). However, they are in the same spot as the indicators. For maximum visibility of both lights, I would like the DRL's to go off when the indicators come on.

    I'm assuming I can't just put a relay on to the wire going to the indicator bulbs as the current wouldn't be constant. It has to be somewhere before the flasher unit. Anyone have any idea on the ideal location to plug the relay onto? Would the wire coming out of the indicator switch work?

  2. #2 Mcsenna, Aug 12, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
    Someone may suggest a better way but what I would do is use a multimeter to find a source wire which is constantly live only when the indicator is turned on. That's probably going to be the one between the switch and the flasher unit.
    Another thought.. you then need a relay to cut power to the DRL when it's hot instead of supplying power. Not sure if there is a special type of relay for that purpose.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  3. Use a 5 pin changeover relay - just get a micro relay to make the package a little smaller.

    Where have you take then power for the DRLs from? Ideally you want to have everything in the same area to reduce the wire runs you need but space may be an issue.

    The best bet would be the feed to the flasher - just have to check if it switches power or earth to trigger the flasher - either will work for the relay.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  4. Thanks for the responses. The DRL's are currently drawing from the parkers under the dash. (They go on and off with the bike which is good) I figured I could tap into the cable between the indicator switch and the flasher in that same area with the 5 pin relay. I'll get a relay and give it a go tonight.

    This might sound stupid but on a 5 Pin relay, what do I do with the pin that is connected when the switch is open? (No 87 in the diagram). Just leave it if I just want the DRL's to go off?


    What do you mean by hot?
  5. Hot = Live

    and yes to 87 I would think.
  6. #6 cjvfr, Aug 12, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
    Usually the incoming line to the switch is already on/off at the flash rate. That is then switched through to left or right as required. So there is no always on line when indicators are selected. So you will need to detect the flashing on both left and right and keep the two electrically separated. It calls for two diodes, an RC delay circuit and a relay is my guess?

    Something like this perhaps?


    Added later: Thinking about it the resistor is probably not necessary and would only add delay on start so it can be discarded.

    Attached Files:

    • Informative Informative x 1
  7. Thanks Chris.

    Didn't think of using Capacitors. Maybe I should have paid more attention in Physics but does it sound right that I need a 0.8f capacitor? (10A x 1 Second) / 12v (Assuming my indicators flash every second? Should I actually time it or just estimate?)
  8. No you don't need anything that large. Blink rate is set by legislation to be between 60 - 120 blinks/min so if you assume a 50% duty cycle is a 0.25 - 0.5 second off time. The capacitor only needs to hold the relay closed for that time. You may need to do some experiments because it depends on the relay you use, probably about 1000 µF
  9. Thanks Chris. Just got a couple of different sizes and will try them out. The only part left I need to get is the diode. How do I determine the size of the diode? They seem to only be 1w when the indicator bulb is 21w.
  10. 1w Diode is ample. Your not punching the 20w via the diode, just sucking off enough to drive the relays coil.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. Yes you are getting confused, the relay takes the load of your extra lights on its contacts the diode and capacitor is just there to operate the relay. As per Gooza says above.
  12. Should have paid attention during school. lol. I'll have all the parts I need tomorrow and will start playing around. Keep you guys updated, hopefully I will have a working DRL which goes on/off by the 23rd Aug (1st day off LAMS :D)

    Should be fun. I also need to figure out how to weatherproof all of this.
  13. Heatshrink and electrical tape will be fine up under the fairing - you aren't planning any river crossings are you?
  14. You never know where @Uncle Greg@Uncle Greg 's rides take you. :D
    • Like Like x 1
    • Winner Winner x 1
  15. Finally got everything wired up. Tried 470, 1000 & 4700uf Capacitors and none seemed to work. 4700 seemed like it took a little while to charge but even when charged, didn't work with the relay. However, the relay circuit was open for the longest period of time.

    I did it without the resistor and a 1w diode.

    Does it make sense I need an even larger one? or is there something that could make the capacitor output a more consistent current. (no idea if that makes any sense)
  16. How big/little is the relay, whats is coil current rated at? at 12v. Whats the duty cycle now? You could also put all 3 caps in parallel to see if that's enough, but this must be getting on the large size. No way to control the current output from the CAP, as the coil of the relay will draw what it needs. You could try to the resistor between the cap and the relay, using the initial battery voltage to make the relay, and limit the current drawn a tad from the CAP, hopefully still enough for the hold in voltage to the relay to lengthen its time on.

    Or just get a capacitor twice/thrice the size, and stop screwin' around :]

    Only needs to be a 16v Cap.
  17. Hi Andy. 150mA is a fair bit to be sucking out of a CAP. I would go for a 10,000uF or more (still only a buck fifty). Just the bastards get pretty big in these larger capacities.
  18. Just doing more research. I don't think I will ever get a big enough capacitor (that fits in the fairing + charge quick enough + not draw too much current) to output 12v with a coil resistance of 0.15A for 1/2 a sec.

    I'm buying this (link below) and see how that works. I'll have the delay set at 0.5 sec (or the minimum time between flashes) which should do the trick. Only downside is the DRL's would take 0.5/0.6 sec to come on after I cancel my indicators. (Not really a big deal).

  19. Ok, that coil current surprises me, I didn't think it would be that high. Looks like the plain capacitor idea is dead in the water.

    Just one little warning with your timer, the electrical environment in automotive can be poor, noise from the engine, the voltage will go as high as 14+ volts etc. You may need some protection to prevent the device being spiked. But at that price give it a go, if it dies in a month then rethink the protection around it.