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Increasing responsiveness of my brakes?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by adisankhiyan, Nov 1, 2015.

  1. I need squeeze them hard to get and affective brake. I don't know anything about servicing, so please keep it a bit specific if possible.
    I've got a 2005 VTR250

  2. The 3 main things you should be looking at doing are:

    - Replacing the old, deteriorated rubber brake lines with new OEM or braided (I bought a braided set from HEL simply because it was cheaper than OEM). Bike brake lines are quite long and 10 years of sun isn't particularly great for the lines, they begin to flex and waste braking power.
    - Flushing the front and rear brake fluid and getting them completely bled.
    - Buying a set of HH rated sintered brake pads. Check out metalgear and EBC products for these.

    The VTR250s brakes aren't bad, but they only have a single front disc with long brake lines. Air in the lines and deteriorated lines helped hugely in my case - I doubt most learner bikes would have ever had a proper brake servicing besides changing the pads.
  3. If changing pads type, make sure your discs are up to it...
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Most of what you said is rocket science to me, but looks pretty helpful. I'll work on these gradually.

    EDIT: I've got a blue one too=D
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Good point Greydog - you'll want to check the thickness of the disc at the very least as sintered pads can be quite harsh on the discs. The minimum thickness should be printed on the disc.

    Your mechanic should be able to organise all of this for you in any case. The new pads are for a better bite, all of the lever feel will come from a healthy hydraulic system (master cylinder, lines and fresh fluid with no air).

    It might be a good idea to introduce yourself in the intro section also as it is the custom around here. And put some pics up of the beast too, especially after the handlebars (y)
  6. I'm planning to man=D
  7. That too, but I wrecked a set of discs bc the new pads were too harsh on the soft metal of the discs.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  8. With brakes, something has to give.
    -Organic pads are much softer but wear themselves out
    -Sintered pads last ~6 times longer however wear the rotor out.

    Personally I would stick on a good set of Organics, to me they have much better feel and bite than sintered which technically have more stopping power.
    If your racing or riding very aggressively sintered pads have the edge as they can tolerate more heat.
  9. It might be funny to you guys but when I was asking this question, I had in my mind that there might be some kind screw I could tighten to get better response out of brakes. Like we do on a bicycle.
    Is that possible at all or only ways are the ones that Harb listed??
  10. #10 Nicholai_Chev, Nov 2, 2015
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2015
    Their is no adjustment per say, the piston will automatically force the brake-pad onto the disk, their is always contact between the rotor, piston and brakepad. Your only adjustment would be on the handlebar where you can adjust the position of the lever.

    Having thinner then spec rotors won't reduce braking performance, it only makes the rotor much more susceptible to warping and less able to absorb heat.
    If your rotor + pads are very smooth, it might be worth going over it with some fine sandpaper and brake cleaner to ensure they arn't glazed.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. The old cheese rotors.. E series falcons have this problem but even organic pads will chew and warp them :banghead:

    Nicholai is spot on. One more thing you could do is take the caliper and pads out, extend the piston ~75% of the way and clean all the gummy deposits from them with a toothbrush and brake cleaner. This can cause sticking and uneven brake pad pressure, and less contact area means less stopping power and accelerated pad wear.