Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Incorrect suspension setting

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by ibast, May 30, 2006.

  1. I thought it might be helpfull for people to discuss how certian suspension setting adversly effect their bike.

    e.g. I was recently setting the preload on the front of my bike. It was set too high and two things were happening. 1. The front wasn't squatting proberly under heavy braking and 2. The pressure required to steer varied greatly during a turn.

    I returned the settings to the factory settings and found it neatral.

    The next day I set the static sag to the general setting of 30mm, which was lighter again. I found this produced faster steering but was much heavier.

    So now I'm going to set it back to standard.

    So what experiences have you had? How does changing the damping effect your bike? etc.
  2. I'd love a walkthru for adjusting the rear preload.
    I don't have a factory manual, so anyone who can tell me how adjust a rear VTR250 setup (tools, factory preset heights etc) would be a legend.

  3. I was playing with my front and rear damping the other day. I have a manual for CBR900 RR and its got the setting specified for the type of ride.
    I set the setting to soft and took it for a ride and the front bounced a lot but no jerks, I then set it to hard and took it for a spin again. This time the bike was very steady but I got some jerks on me palm on the road.

    Specially cornering was a lot different. Front Braking on the corners are very different and if set to soft you tend to press down but then you can get more traction and take off quicker. Setting it hard made it difficult to make sharp turn at speeds. Mind you all this was on road riding and I never did more than 100. I also experienced the bike to be heavier or more difficult to steer when the setting on the front was hard but then heavy braking was great and bike did not dip much.

    My last accident was because of heavy Tank slapping. On heavy braking from 180 the bike goes all the way down till it has no rebound causing the front to shake uncontrolably. There by loosing traction and slip. I have my bike set 2 clicks clockwise from the standard and find it pretty decent. This means it bit harder than the factory setting. 6 clicks clockwise from factory is the Hardest on these bikes and vice versa anticlock wise. :)
  4. umm, what exactly is "squatting properly under braking"?

    my paralever bmw doesn't squat at all, and my linked brake blackbird hardley does it at all.

    There are heaps of guides about this and they all come back to

    Preload: set for static sag of between 25 and 33% total suspension travel.

    Damping - always start soft and if the bike bottoms out over a series of motions, make the damping harder. If the tyres loose contact with the ground (ie the suspension starts packing up) you went too far.
  5. I was kind of waiting for this.

    What I am talking about is the initial weight transfer you get on a conventionally braked system. I personally find it very disconerting when a bike doesn't do this or for that matter does it too much.

    This becomes a big driving factor when I set up the front end of a bike.

    The settings on my bike as I bought it (second hand) gave the feeling that the bike was just skimming along the ground on heavy braking and was limiting the amount I could apply the front brake. Obviously the compression damping has a lot to do with this and on my bike it was also set very stiff
  6. Hey Iblast on your GSXR is it one of the early ones with the anti dive set up run off the Brake lines ??? these style of anti dive systems give that wooden feeling what year is it again ???
  7. Nah it's actually a later model with inverted folks.

    Yeah Suzuki put that on the GSX models in the 80's. Never worked.

    I think my problem was the compression damping was only one click out from max and the preload was set too high.

    I seem to end up with the opposite. Compression damp lightish and rebound firmish. This way it's not too servere over a bump, but gets back under control again quickly. the previso is, as Bonox noted, that you don't wan't the rebound so stiff that the suspension gets tied up, because it can't get back somwhere near position zero.
  8. Is that like when under heavy braking and you hit a bump and the forks bottom out? I'm serious because mine do.
  9. that is likely to be an undersprung front doggy.

    damping will not affect bottoming out under brakes - only how long it takes to bottom them. You have either springs that are too light for your weight, or they are old and worn out, or you have preload so low that you are working with perhaps only half of the suspension travel that should be available.
  10. Here is a good article on understanding the various components and suspension adjustments. :)
  11. I weigh about 88kg including riding gear and the bike is a K3 less than 15,000 km old. Checking on the GSTwin site the soft springs are a common complaint. Apparently the going remedy is to cut a 20mm long peice of Nylon rod and put that in on top of the spring. Crude preload maybe?
  12. affirmative
  13. Nothing crude about it at all -as long as the coils are not binding at full compression. All you are doing is adjusting the preload to a different setting to what the factory did.
  14. 20c coins work as well! (but you may need washers instead depending on damping rods and whatnot connected to the cap.