Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Ignition Barrell Removal - Help Needed Please...

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Pommy, Feb 14, 2008.

  1. Hi,

    My GPZ600R needs a new barrell for the roadworthy - The key pops out when ignition is on.

    I sourced a 2nd hand one from a GPZ750, it is identical and plugs straight into the existing loom.

    However, i cannot get the other one off. It had neither bolt/allen/screw holding it on, just two errm things...

    Any help on how to remove it?

    The one from the GPZ750 appears to have been drilled off.

    Thanks in advance,

  2. Try a different roadworthy guy :p

    My gpx does that but my guy didn't care about it.
  3. It's the second place that has pulled me for it now...

    Not havin much luck as I have heard that it's not normally one of the things they get ya for.

    Plus, if i take it to a third place they will find something else wrong!

    So if I can get this sorted by Monday's re-test it will have to pass and then I can get on the road after all my hard work!


  4. [quote="Pommy It had neither bolt/allen/screw holding it on, just two errm things...[/quote]

    A photo of the "things" might help identify what they are and the best tool for removal. :)
  5. The locks are held on by special bolts that the heads snap off once they're done up. You have to drill the rest of the bolts off.
  6. Oh dear I thought as much - I just had another look.

    That means taking the bars off - not looking forward to that.

    Thanks for the help guys.

  7. Just a thought ...
    A: Cut a spare key..
    B: Put key in vice ... gently bend it.
    C: Try now .. the bend should prevent it from popping out.
    D: Get your Roadworthiness Certificate

  8. Not torx screws are they? Google.
  9. Just tried that - no good. The key slides in and out with no grip at all, it doesn't even catch once if you now what I mean. Even the water flap thing is stuck back too.

    Here is the fixing:


    Problem is it doesn't come out anywhere - so how much to drill?


    The new barrell - so they DO come off - somehow!

  10. had to do mine once (to put a new headstock on) cut a deepish slot with a dremmel or similar then hammer out with an impact driver as there is 10 tons of locktight in them (heat them up with a hot air gun is a good idea too)

    when done replace with 2 allen head bolts and make life easy
  11. So if I took this to Kawasaki for instance - they would do the same?


  12. I had mine taken out recently - had those shear-bolts or whatever they are called - actually qbnspeedfreak did it - he used an "easy-out" to get the bolts out - from there it was fairly simple (well it looked it) the real biatch was getting the triple clamp undone! :LOL:
  13.  Top
  14. just ask for them in any specialty tool/fastner shop, they are tapered and have i guess you could say a reverse thread, i was the one that recently done ricecookers bike, basically your will need to remove the top of the triple clamp for easy access

    center punch the center of the easy out, drill 1/8 down the center of the shear head bolt, make sure you are straight other wise you may damage the thread, don't go all the way through only about 15-20mm down, once that is done enlarge the hole to 5/32, use the 'easy out' wind in, in a anti-clockwsie motion, as the easy out goes down it will eventually wedge in, and because its in the reverse direction of the thread it will wind the bolt out

    as a temporary measure cut a slot in each of the bolt heads so they can be done up with a straight blade screw driver, and then go to a fastners shop, take one of the bolts with you, and ask for a shear head bolt in the same size :grin:, use a spanner to do them up til the head of the bolt shears off so the is no way to remove the bolts without doing the same procedure all over again
  15. Depending on access, I'd chop the heads off with an angle grinder or a Dremel. This would probably be difficult without mucho dismantling and does carry a significant risk of damage to surrounding components though.
  16. most probably mate.

    or there is the alternative of drill out and re-tap to the next size up bolt
  17. Well guys/girls - i'm more than impressed with the all help you have given!

    Tomorrow I will get it sorted and will probably just cut some slots in and put the originals back in - I mean, who would know?

    As for safety - I'll use some threadlock!

    Cheers everyone!

  18. yeah the heads are below the surface, by doing that you would be giving people ideas, mucj easier and stress free if you do it properly the first time
  19. Just a word of caution -do not use easy outs bought from the likes of Bunnings or supercheap. The quality of steel used in the cheaper brands is absolutely sh!t & if you happen to break an easy out in there you will be in a world of strife :) :) Head to a proper tool supplier & buy a decent quality brand. Only my humble opinion mind you :grin:

  20. +10
    my thoughts exactly roarin, hence the recommendation to see a specialised tool supplier