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How to video: chain lubing and adjustment

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by thecptn, May 22, 2007.

  1. #1 thecptn, May 22, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015

    A good step by step vid on how to lube and adjust your chain if you have never done so.

  2. nice find! will come in handy very soon ..
  3. Yep that's how I do it on my Comet, this guy has some pretty good tips on koriders.com, he I think goes by the name of mike on a rock?
  4. Where do they sell those spary for the chains?
  5. you mean the chain lube? from any motorcycle store.
  6. #7 im.on.it, Jun 12, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
  7. Hmmm the first video posted by the captn says the chain should be adjusted while the rear wheel is on the ground. The 2nd video posted by im.on.it is done with the swingarm propped up on a rear stand. So which is it? Would I be correct in assuming that if you adjust the chain tension on a rear stand, you should tension it less than what you would normally see/feel if the rear wheel is set on the ground?

    Also, I figured that spraying the chain lube like that would be a bad idea? At least when I do it, I find a spot on the chain where I can apply the lube (with the straw attachment that usually comes with the can) without coating my rear wheel/tyre or any other part of the bike with lube. My eyes went :shock: with the liberal spraying, so am I also wrong on this aspect?
  8. Handy but I think I'd be using the correct size tools!
    I lube the chain with the bike on a rear stand and running in 1st gear. Gets an even application then and I do it as far away from the wheel as I can but also spray the inside.
  9. It makes no difference if wheel is on the ground or propped on the swing arm. Does make a difference if on centre stand or the like because the swingarm pivots down.
  10. The load on the swing arm will be the same regardless of whether the bike is resting on its back wheel or a rear stand. My thought is that by having the rear wheel suspended off the ground, the wheel is free to turn so you can accurately measure the slack in the chain as you adjust it (i.e. all the slack in the chain can be isolated to the bottom length of the chain, where you measure it). With the wheel on the ground some slack may be in the top part of the chain and some in the bottom so when you adjust it you may think the chain is tighter than it actually is when you measure the lower part of the chain. Hope that made sense :) N.B. this won't apply to using a centre stand as the suspension is unloaded then.

    I couldn't believe how much lube that guy in the first video was spraying all over his wheel and tyre :shock: This dude looks like a complete amateur :roll: :LOL: . I use a piece of cardboard or newspaper behind the chain to catch any overspray. An opened out cereal box works great. I also use the tube attachment on the lube to target the lube on the chain only. Finally, i use a fraction of what that guy used, talk about overkill. When applying lube try to do it after the bike is ridden; gets the chain warm which supposedly helps the lube flow and penetrate everywhere (I do wonder if this is necessary though as the solvent carrier for the lube I have (Motul) makes it almost water-like in consistency, easily goes all through the chain before the solvent evaporates to leave the tacky lube behind).

    I hate to sound like a nanna, and I can see the attraction of doing this, but fooling around with the chain while the bike is in gear and the rear wheel is spinning is mucho-dangerous. I'm sure loads of people do it with no consequences but IF you or your clothes get caught in the spinning back sprocket it will be ugly. Spinning it by hand requires no effort and is a much safer way of doing it :)
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  12. holly crap that guy sprays lots of chain lube. i dont think your suppose to spray that much on but maybe he is using some diff lube. i use belray and i definitely cant spray like that on my chain.
  13. Yep, you're a nanna! Point taken but it's a calculated risk. Just like riding the damn thing. :LOL:
    Next time I'll do it naked so nothing gets caught. :p
  14. Apart from reading the handbook and using those directions, it takes 2 to adjust the chain correctly the first time.

    When the usual rider sits on the bike there should be just a little slack, but it is hard to see from the seat. So a second person is needed to check, if it not too tight. Once this is done, put the bike on the centre stand (or stand the bike up) and note how much free play (slack) for next time.

    An overtightened chain will do more damage than a slack one.

    Personally I ride a shafty, no adjusting/lubing of cleaning of the gunk off the rear wheel.
  15. :facepalm: My bad! Didn't realise a center stand unloads the swingarm :oops:

    That's a very good point. I currently run the bike in 1st gear while it's on a rear stand when I'm lubing the chain with the spray. I found I needed to do this because I needed to bend the straw tube with my other hand to aim the spray in a direction that won't over-spray onto parts of my bike. I think the cardboard backing / old-cereal box is a good idea. I'll give it a go the next time I lube the chain.

    Crikey! :shock:
  16. so I'm a little confused I need 30-40mm freeplay on my chain should it be while the bike is loaded with just the bikes weight or is that including me? My handbook doesn't say.
  17. AFAIK you certainly do not need two people to adjust a chain. The freeplay that is specified for a chain on a bike accounts for the fact that there is no rider on the bike. As long as you don't go any tighter than the minimum specified freeplay, the chain should not 'overtighten' at any suspension position.
  18. This thread seems to be making a mountain out of a molehill so to speak. Chain adjustment isnt an art or a science. Follow the manufacturers specs. For most thats 25 -30mm slack in the centre of the chain run with the bike on the centre stand. You need to check for tight spots (no chains dont wear evenly across all links) and adjust it when the slack is at its least. Otherwise if adjusted at the slackest point it may be too tight at the tightest point.

    As for oiling the chain I used to run the bike in first gear as some have said, but that was before watching someone at work give his chain a qiuck once over at lunchtime. Bike rolled off the stand and ploughed into the fence!
    Its all academic now as I bought (invested is probably a better term) in a Scottoiler and would never go back to manual loobing. Chain has lasted more than twice as long (and therefore paid for the Scottoiler) and I can remove it when I sell the bike and transfer it to my new mount.