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How to stop a tank slapper???

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by Big Chris, May 13, 2005.

  1. Hi all,

    Yes I have seen the other posts on tank slappers,
    I want to know what is the best course of action,
    I managed to put my blade into a tanks slapper at the end of my street,
    whist riding home from work,
    The road at the end of my street has a dip for drainage, and after that a nice series of ripples in the bitumen, which i had never noticed.
    Did not think you could get the bars slapping at 60kph, but it can be done,
    I have no clue how I pulled the Blade out of it.

    What is the best course of action??
    Has anyone done a bike course where this was covered??


  2. Do nothing, try to relax & let the bike sort itself out ... or fall off ... painfully.
  3. I've heard you're meant to power out of it.. I think it relieves the weight on the front wheel, allowing you to regain control more easily than if you release the throttle.
  4. Dont Panic

    Grip the bike with your knees

    Grab the bars

    Pull in the clutch

    Bike should come into some form of control

    People panic when this happens. Bike decellarates under engiune breaking making it worse. Pulling the clutch in releaves alot of the slapping as the bike rolls easier. Allows you to take more control
  5. i had heard that a tank slapper will usually come on at a certain speed, say 95km/h, you can power out of it but as soon as you slow down, bang it hits again. don't know how correct this is.
  6. You forgot the most important bit Mitch, after said incident go home and change yah undies ! other than that yup agree totally

    :LOL: :p :LOL:
  7. I've been told it's a case of holding on and trying not to brake or accelerate.

    In ideal world if you can put on just enough throttle to hold momentum would probably be best but pulling the clutch is a lot easier to not stuff up.
  8. I agree with you on that one Bob. Have had a few and they scare the shite out of you.. literally....
  9. Tank slappers are caused by a sudden change in the geometry of the bike, usually set off by a bump in the road.
    This throws the bars one way, the suspension then responds, throwing the bars back the other way. This goes on until the suspension finally soaks up all the energy and settles down.

    The best thing you can do is let the suspension do its job and soak up all the 'loose' energy that's flying about. Putting more weight on the front wheel can help, either by moving forward, or touching the back brake.
    You should never accelerate, as this can only make things worse, as can tightening your grip on the bars, as you then run the risk of overcompensating.

    Or you could fit a steering dampener.
  10. Hey nearlyempty

    I agree with the analysis, but gripping the bars harder does help as it removes a good portion of the energy from the event and places it through you. Subsequently, allowing the frame geometry and suspension to settle quicker. In effect, you become a frame member....

    Then again, I could be wrong.
  11. A what now? How do they work?
  12. Hmm, there have been plenty of arguments over this exact thing.

    I tend toward letting the bike sort itself out wherever possible, with the reasoning that a bike is naturally a pretty stable thing and doesn't want to do anything other than go in a straight line. Therefore, given it's head it will eventually sort itself out.

    I suppose that, as there have been so many arguments on both sides, does it really make THAT big a difference?

    (I say yes, but then I do enjoy a good argument ;-) )

    We should have a practical session at Phillip Island some time to find out what works best. Any volunteers?
  13. It's a shock absorber that fits between your frame and your handlebars (looks like a cigar case with a metal rod running through it). They absorb all that 'loose' energy and stop the bars from shaking. You won't see a race bike without one. The down side is that they make the bars harder to turn at low speeds.
  14. Hmm. What sort of cash are we talking? I'm a pretty big strong^H^H^H^H^H^Hfat git so I don't think I'd have a problem.
  15. around $800 will buy you a decent one as far as i know.
  16. Buy yourself the book Twist of the wrist no. 2

    It explains exactly what causes tank slappers and the RIGHT way to get out of them
  17. Anyone know what bookshop (preferably in the city) that sells this?
  18. superbike schools sells it, check out this site then call steve brouggy
  19. Would be cheaper to buy from amazon if you want both volumes.