I detail/clean bikes, and prepare them for sale in my spare time for some extra spondoulies... Here is a list of what parts to clean what with. Iâ€™ve been doing this for a while, and though I donâ€™t claim that these are the best, I know they wonâ€™t damage your ride. Please let me know of any other products that I might not know of - you learn something different every day. STEP 1. Do Australia a favor and save water, give your bike a spray (from a bottle) with grey-water that you saved in a bucket from your shower or bath (or alternatively, take a shower with your bike.) Step 2. Using CHEMTECH CT-18 (from your auto shop, its a foaming gel - cleaner that costs $30 odd, and can be diluted up to 200 litres, its zero alkaline and not acidic, and has rust inhibiting properties) in a bucket applying with a sponge/spray bottle or brush. You can use this stuff on brake rotors/calipers and chain as well, unlike degreaser that will damage both of these. Work it hard into the grime, making sure it penetrates. Rinse/spray. STEP 3. Apply CT-18 again with spray bottle, even if the bike appears to be clean, go and have a coffee and watch some telly for about an hour, and let the stuff dry. Rinse, especially good if you can use a high pressure hose, keeping the jet away from electrics, bearings, and radiator face. Polish off plastics and tank with a polishing cloth (ENYO (ENJO?) cloths are great) STEP 4. Chain/Sprocket: I start with a wire brush and concentrated CT-18, and then move onto a toothbrush. Degreaser is not a great idea, especially on O-Ring chains as it will dissolve the internal lubrication. I usually put the bike up on centrestand/trackstand to make it easier, and slap it into first gear (Unless you want to lose a finger, I would advise EXTREME CAUTION and turning down the idle is an idea!) I then use a little bit of kerosene on a rag and clean each individual link until itâ€™s pretty and shiny, but itâ€™s a bit obsessive. The same applies for the sprocket, however if you want a really good finish, see STEP 8. (A lot of people think their sprocket is black, however most of the time it came out of the showroom nice and shiny!) Remember to re-lube, wipe excess, and do it before you clean your rims. Step 5. Brakes: Using metholated spirits on a rag, clean your brake rotors. Change the rag regularly, until no more brake dust appears. You can also buy brake cleaner (I like NULON brake cleaner) that is in a can that you can spray your discs and calipers, but this stuff can do damage to your paint, so use a rag for overspray. If you want to get serious braking power back, remove you wheel/caliper and run a soaked metho rag between your brake pads. Step 5. Rims: Degreaser (RP-7, WD-40 ect.) and kerosene both work well for getting muck off your wheels, but both can discolor (yellow) your paint if used regularly. They can also be dangerously slippery if you get some on your tread. Dirt and dust will stick to these as well, so make sure itâ€™s all wiped up thoroughly. I use the CT-18 stuff again here, polishing it until itâ€™s all gone. For chrome/shiny rims, read STEP 8. Step 6. Tyres: Be very careful with this one, 'cos thereâ€™s not point your bike being showroom clean sitting broken in the wreckers... Use a tyre cleaning chemical (different to tyre shine) to clean the walls of the tyres (!!!not the tread!!!). The rag will keep coming up black, 'â€˜cos youâ€™re actually stripping rubber away. Then you can use Tyre Black (like paint) with a paintbrush, or Amour-All tyre shine. You can get combinations of these, i.e. 2 in 1, but I think it works better individually. Make sure you clean up any and all over spays and drips on tyre tread, as well as the gap between the tyre and rim where the fluid likes to hide, or your going arse up. STEP 7. Seat/unpainted plastics: Use a velour/leather/upholstery cleaner (Amour-all is a good one) on your seat, keeping in mind it will be slippery afterwards. Follow the directions on the bottle. You can use the same stuff on your unpainted black plastics (under tail, indicators, switch blocks, instruments ect.}, but auto Bumper Rejuvenator works great too. Itâ€™s like a "milky" liquid, follow the directions on the pack, letting it soak into plastics. It also helps prevent sun-damage. STEP 8. Chrome/shiny bits: My favorite is AUTOSOL, but I hear another product, MOTHER is also a good one. Use it on anything that is bare metal, or has a metal coating like chrome. AUTOSOL is an abrasive cleaner, so if you use it too much it can damage the surface or take off clear coatings over these surfaces. For badly corroded surfaces, or to remove brake dust on bare metals, use a light sandpaper (1200 grit wet and dry). The best way to use AUTOSOL is: Apply it with your hands, keep on rubbing/massaging surface until the stuff becomes purplish black. Wipe off with a rag. Polish with a clean rag, changing rags regularly. The cleaner the rags, and the faster you polish, the better your finish will be. Keep changing the rags and polishing until thereâ€™s no more residue on the rag. If needed, re-do the steps from the start. MR SHEEN works well, so does CHROME CLEEN (or similar) MMmmmnnn, shiny. STEP 9. Screens, Lights & Indicators. You can usually clean the insides of indicator lenses and head/tail lights by removing them, but donâ€™t touch the halogen globes or they will burn out. You can get rid of "clouding" on the insides of indicators and lights by using WINDEX or CT-18, and giving them a good rinse. You will be surprised how much better they light up, and this should be done at least ounce a year. For your screen and instrument (dash) glass, use a helmet visor cleaner. It not only makes it nice, but also repels water. Hope you found this helpful. It should take about 2 to 6 hours to do, but ounce you do it then just do one step a week and its a lot less work. Man my fingers are sore.... If you cant be stuffed doing it yourself, I work on detailing bikes in the melbourne area, so let me know. Oh, and get some SOLVOL hand cleaner, you'll need it.