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How much should a replacement chain cost?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by MeltingDOg, Sep 13, 2012.

  1. I went on a few online stores and the cost looked about $35. I didnt want to wait for shipping so I called a few local dealerships workshops. Chains there are $100+!

    I was expecting to pay a little more but not that much. Is this cost accurate?


     
  2. you get what you pay for!! And yes, it is that simple, but!!! Price a DID chain online and the same product local and you may fall off your chair. Mine came in from UK costing about $240 from memory, here, it may have been over $300 [think that included sprockets]
     
  3. Were those $35 chains o-ring chains though?

    As goddie suggested, try comparing identical brands/types first before worrying if you're getting ripped off or not.
     
  4. mine cost $125 plus postage (normally cost around $230)...............it was an Australian seller and a top chain/brand. It arrived in around 2 days. I wouldnt touch a $35-$100 chain with a 100 foot pole......

    check out the chain and sprocket thread that another forumer put up..............I had the links of where I bought the parts and some info that might be of help to ya.
     
  5. I had a $30ish chain on my for 15-20,000kms.

    Seemed ok...
     
  6. Was that on the Hyodung? If so I'd imagine a $30 chain would be a substantial step up from anything they might have used. :p
     
  7. Doubled the value of the bike. ;)
     
  8. Probably but it worked though.
     
  9. I put a $35 chain on one of my classic bikes-just to get it going.
    It needs adjusting after every ride.
    After 2500K the adjuster is half way back.
    So a 60HP bike will wear it out in 5K.
    Do your own sums.
     
  10. I have a VTR250. Lower power bikes do not need as costly chain and sprockets.

    The type of chain it uses is a 520 size one. That number specifies the width of the rollers (to fit on a sprocket made of a particular thickness of material) and the distance between the rollers (I don't actually know too much about chain and sprocket specification)
    This site has some information
    http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.HTM

    I know peter stevens were selling DID chains online in this size for $99 very recently. Normal price I think is about $120. Sprockets (front and rear) for my bike are in the order of $70-80. I checked all these prices as I was going to replace them myself, but I had the bike at the mechanic for a major service anyway so I got them to do it. (I would have liked to have learnt to do it myself though)

    Mechanics charge a little more for parts than what you pay in stores (and then labor on top of this). The RK brand chain they put on cost $134 (I think)
     
  11. But that doesn't mean you should use a cheap $30 chain on one. Lower powered bikes can't afford to be losing too much power between the engine and the rear wheels - making the chain/sprockets even more important than on a larger bike.

    What having less power does mean though is that you can get by with a narrower chain and/or one with a clip type link which will save some money - but definitely stick with quality brands and leave the cheap Chinese stuff for cheap Chinese bikes.
     
  12. Ah, I was a little misleading here, and I'm very new to bikes so I probably should have mentioned I might be wrong.

    I meant low cost relative to the prices mentioned by some of the people in previous posts ($230-240)! These chains would be for big bikes correct?

    I would never use a $30 Chinese chain! I was going to buy a DID one, but got an RK one at the mechanic. DID, RK, EK these are all very well respected chain manufacturers aren't they? Sticking to these brands, the chain is "low" cost for a small bike, when compared to a big bike
     
  13. Yeah I'm guessing those prices would be for 530 width chains. Of course some people do fit 520 chains and sprockets to 1000cc bikes to save weight - but I doubt they'd be getting the same lifespan out of them than when they're fitted to a 250.

    Properly looked after chains can last a very long time on a small bike. I'm at 13,000kms on mine and haven't even had to adjust the chain tension yet - so 40-50,000kms should be more than possible and with that sort of life it's not worth saving a few bucks on cheap parts (or cheap chain lube). Of course I only got 10,000kms out of the chain on my first 250, so obviously my maintenance and riding skills have improved somewhat since then ;).
     
  14. The way to save money and live a simple life, with chains and sprockets, is to find the best ones and try and buy them for a price that isn't too outrageous. They will cost you. The alternative is to buy cheap alternatives. Wrong move, Those will wear out quickly and let you down when you can least afford it. They will snap. They will fall off. Old bike riders will look, and then laugh at you. Chains and sprockets is one area where buying the cheapest is usually not a good idea. The stuff you want will cost a mint, but there's a reason for that.
     
  15. i have seen crank case with big hole in it where the chain let go and smashed crank case ,,,all so have heard of chain come off back sprocket and lock up back wheel and rider hurt when he hit the road ,,
     
  16. Speaking of chains....

    Is there a way to tell engine oil from scottoil (the OEM oil that goes in scottoilers)?

    Just recently I have noticed a drop or two of black looking oil on the ground after parking the bike for a few minutes. It seems to be coming from around the gear selector spindle area (I mean very general area).

    I'm thinking this could either be scottoil, or maybe engine oil. Scottoil would make sense as the front sprocket is smaller than the rear, so the chain will be accelerating much more around that sprocket and most fling will happen. Oil probably flings off into the front sprocket cover and then leaks out. Or maybe it is engine oil. The oil looks clearish, but stained dark (although any oil flowing on that area of my bike would pick up a lot of dirt). It washes off hands very easily with a little soap.

    I'm checking my sight glass regularly, and haven't noticed a change in the level yet. Should I maybe just dial the scottoiler back a little and keep checking the engine oil level?
     
  17. Why would you bother with a scottoiler ?
    A spray every couple of weeks is pretty easy,and O ring chains dont need lube anyway.
     
  18. They are great manufacturers but they do also sell cheap stuff, the cheap stuff usually have inferior technology.....go for the expensive ones thats priced at a bargain as KD suggests.

    For me, I found a great bargain chain and went with the cheaper steel sprockets........these sprockets might actually last longer than the more expensive alloy ones. The downside is in performance.........but my ninja wont see the track so performance isnt a priority. My CBR though will hopefully get the go faster bits (once funds allow :)).
     
  19. Well, I was using Silkolene Chain Gel (not sure of the variety, I think there are a couple). I have also used Castrol Chain Oil that they sell in cans at service stations because I forgot lube on the way to Orange (I absolutely HATED this product).

    I ride my bike daily about 30 kilometers/day regardless of the weather.

    If I went a couple of weeks between lubing the chain, it would get very dirty and dry looking. I live about 100 meters from the beach so sand and dust blow around and stick to chains. I live in an apartment without any sort of garage so it's a bit of a pain either pushing the bike around to clean and lube it or taking a paddock stand downstairs to the bike. I would think I'd need to do this at least weekly to have my chain looking nice and clean and lubricated.

    With the scottoiler, the chain stays very clean looking. Hardly any grit sticks in between the rollers and side plates. The rollers always have a slightly wet look to them and the chain seems to have a thin film of oil all over it. Cleaning is less frequent and easier. My chain always has that just been cleaned and lubricated feel to it (I did neglect my previous chain and sprockets on one or two occasions before)

    Ideally, I would have a shed with a paddock stand, brushes, kerosene and containers all handy, so I could come straight home from riding when the chain is nice and warm and give it a clean and lube easily. I wouldn't have a scottoiler if this were the case. But for now I think it is very good.
     
  20. Same could be said of every post ever on NR :D oh imagine how friendly this place would get...I wouldn't recognise the place!