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how high do you get your rpm's before changing gears?

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by Filo01, Aug 29, 2007.

  1. I was just wandering if you should redline the bike before gearing up(16-19rpms?) while i was riding down the nepean highway i tested this out on first gear & the bike seemed to respond really well, would it be better for me to change gear at a lower rev line(10-14rpms?) or am i doing the right thing by getting the bike to higher rpms before changing up gears?

  2. Depends on how fast you wanna go and how long you want your engine to last. I sure as shit wouldnt be redlining it everytime. Its generally something you shouldnt have to think about. Just ride the bike whichever way feels comfortable.
  3. ahh ok, yah i can normally tell when the bike needs a gear up, just like a car, i was just wandering if there was a set average range everyone gets to, the bike freaking cains at high revs though, feels awsome
  4. Whatever sounds best! :grin:

    I normally go to about 7K (mine is 11.5K redline) as that leaves ample torque for the next gear to keep accelerating smoothly without ringing the guts out of it. Obviously for maximum acceleration, take it almost all the way to the redline cos that's where most of the power is.

  5. Well, considering my bike redlines at 8,000rpm Im sure not gonna do 19,000rpm....
  6. twist the throttle to stop, with your foot under the gear shift with upward pressure, when you get valve bounce it will pop straight into the next gear :twisted:

    +1 to what bambam_101 said, sure the bike revs to 19,000rpm, doesn't mean it need to be done between every change, ride it how it feels comfortable, but making sure the bike isn't labouring when you shift up
  7. I generally listen as im too bloody scared to look down too much at it. hehehe. I went for another practice tonight, I think I am finally getting the hang of corners. Lean bike left, lean yourself right, and WHAM, you turn...lol (well in a fashion anyway)
  8. About 4K RPM
  9. i know off topic but...

    what drugs are you on? best go back to pre learners bud

    lean with the bike not against it, the exception is U-turns and very low speed manouvring
  10. lol

    oops...that wasn't what i meant to write...was left both ways...

    when i ws writing that i was thinking of that silly ad on the radio with the instructions, "turn left right, then the next right right"... yeah you'd think i was a dick, sorry :oops: I already had the looking to where i was going down pat...

    Honest mistake...
  11. Dont worry Madness.... we knew what you meant. :grin:

    Filo - My cibby (redlines at 18k) starts the morning not wanting to be pushed past about 6k, then when at good operating temp, starts to want to be pushed to around the 10k mark. I will open her to about 12k when starting to really dig in, but yeah 10k mark is where it seems happiest.
  12. yeah i usally change at around 10k.
  13. Its a 250, not a blackbird :p

    For a cbr, changing at 8000 is a good idea.

    Definitely shouldn't be reddlining to change gears, whats wrong with you!?! :p
  14. In normal/sedate riding about half-way through the rev range for the bike.
  15. ROFL :rofl: :tantrum:

    the bike seems to like it :D. i didn't do it to much today though, i normally change gears alot earlier
  16. Dude it really depends how fast you want to go. Rev it more if you want to accelerate faster. For slow cruising I normally change gets on my FZR250 from 6K to 8K. Changing at 16K is ok if your on the race track or in a drag race...
  17. depends on how much petrol you want to waste
  18. if im just cruisin i upshift around 6-9k
    if you want the powerband 14-18k.
    the more rev the more petrol it eats
  19. It's not good to lug an engine, but the life of an engine is inversely exponentially proportional to the revs.

    In other words, the more you rev it the less k's to the next rebuild.
  20. I have a standard test I do on every manual vehicle I own, which is to find out were it accelerates (pulls) the best. Select 3rd gear, at around 20kph, then flatten it.
    The bike will accelerate slowly initally, but will then, as it goes through the torque band will accelerate harder, then taper off up at the top end of the range. You can look at the torque charts and see why this happens.
    By keeping the revs around where it pulls hardest, you will get maximum acceleration, so once past this point, change gears, as it is no use wringing it's neck, for no gain.
    As others have said more revs more fuel and more wear.
    My revs, only as much as needed. :wink: