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How can I transform my bike into a track bike

Discussion in 'Racing, Motorsports, and Track Days' started by Blaz, Sep 30, 2012.

  1. Hey everyone, im new to this forum .

    I am planning to make my bike "track only" and I was just wondering if there were any requirements necessary to change your bike from road to track.

    By "track only" I mean not to race the bike, but purely for the purpose of track days.

    Obviously I would unregister the bike, remove mirrors and other road gear, but are there any other conditions that need to be met?

  2. Only the conditions that are checked in scrutineering: basic track-worthiness.
  3. there's a few bits and pieces they check but there's not a lot.

    they check that your front and rear brakes both work, that the throttle is self-closing, and that there's not too much free play in the clutch or throttle.

    Apart from that, mirrors lights and glass need to be taped up or removed, and also you need to make sure nothing is leaking anywhere.

    you can do more if you really want, but so long as you're not racing there's no need to change or replace anything. If you have a side stand or centre stand on the bike I'd suggest removing them, but of course you'll need a rear stand if you do that (and check any side stand safety switches are suitably disconnected too)
  4. Depending on where you go you might have to safety wire bolts together
  5. may i recommend some cheap race fairings (preferably with a belly-pan that holds oil, in-case you want to race later), and also a 520 chain conversion if it doesn't already run one.

    if not the above, at least get a headlight blocking plate and remove the headlight.

    other suggestion's include:
    fully synthetic oil,
    a higher spec radiator fluid,
    high spec brake fluid, race spec dot 4 or dot 5.1 [dot 5.1 is just higher spec then dot 4, not to be confused with dot 5 which is entirely different]
    sinter or carbon brake pad
    and most importantly the stickiest tires known to man
  6. Maybe look at braided lines also?
  7. You might also have to run water only in the cooling system. Check some of the ride day operators for the lowdown.
  8. All they check is that you have enough tread in your tyres (if they are road tyres), brake pads have enough life in them to get through the day, no leaks anywhere, chain tension, and self closing throttle.

    As others have said, top of my list would be cheap Chinese fairings from ebay, remove all lights/mirrors/indicators, crash protection (oggy knobs etc), sticky tyres.

    Then get out there and wring it's neck.
  9. Don't ditch your side stand. The little weight penalty of having it there will be far better than trying to deal with a bike that doesn't have a side stand. Your name isn't Casey Stoner, so you don't need to bring your lap times down by 0.001 of a second...

    Also, synthetic oil can make some standard clutches slip (as I found out the hard way), so don't necessarily think you have to go for a fully synthetic oil, when a semi-synthetic oil could work better for your bike.

    Basically, start by doing as little as is necessary, then gradually remove/replace/add parts wherever the need arises. Also, don't fall into the trap of buying "the stickiest" tyres: many of them have less grip than a good street sportbike tyre until you really heat them up, and most people don't have the skill to work them hard enough to keep them hot (presuming that they use tyre warmers to get them up to temperature in the first place). ie: start small, and work your way up...
    • Like Like x 2
  10. Sweet!, alot of good feedback in only a day

    Ive already gathered a few bits and pieces. Its all coming together...slowly

    about the oil, i was thinking about just using the semi-synthetic. But will that be adequate for the hard riding the motor will go through on the track?
  11. Sell it registered and buy a 2nd Hand pre prapared bike.

    You'd probably come out on top.
  12. What bike is it? Some of the questions you ask may be better answered and bike specific

    Mostly i'm just curious
  13. For a track bike, the oil should be changed a lot more often than a road bike, so the question isn't whether semi-synthetic is adequate, but what the service interval should be, and that depends on how hard you ride it.
    • Like Like x 1
  14. I'd recommend changing the oil initially after three days riding and see how it looks. It might be ok to stretch to four or five but as was said earlier, it depends how hard you ride it.

    I drop the oil out of mine every 3 track days and replace the oil filter every second oil change.

    All the other things mentioned in here can be done if you want, but if all you are doing is track days (like Champions Ride Days etc) then you don't have to do anything to your bike.

    braided lines feel much better than standard lines. I can't comment on sintered pads as I'm running stock pads in my 2010 GT650R.

    cheap race glass would be useful, as would engine guards/case savers. Don't bother with safety wire or removing coolant and replacing it with water because you won't have to do it.
    • Like Like x 1