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Hondas and their [blank blank] regulators

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by hornet, Aug 12, 2007.

  1. So my brother has a newer VFR-800, 1998 model, and has just found out by means of replacing the battery but finding it flat at the end of a ride that the V/R is shot.

    I remember someone saying that there is a Yamaha regulator which fits, is the right voltage and costs less than the genuine Honda part; can anyone remember this and give me the info, please??

  2. This might be helpful.
  3. James, you are a wonder; straight into the top ten on the Christmas card list :LOL:.
  4. Any of teh aftermarket regulators will work a treat too Paul, and last forever.

    Regards, Andrew.
  5. No probs. It's a good reference to have as I now know what to look for on the CBR. That recent stat somebody pulled from the garage data had ~30% NR's on Hondas.... me thinks this maybe useful for more than just us.
  6. Yeah, well, I've already had that pain, and 50 miles away from home on an early Sydney Netrider function, with the Hornet's V/R collapsing on Parramatta Road. Fortunately it was not long after I bought the bike, so the dealer did the repair for his cost of parts only. But we get asked this question so often, we ought to make THAT site a sticky :LOL:.
  7. If I owned a Honda, I'd cary a spare, even a second hand spare.

    Regards, Andrew.
  8. teach your brother to buy a honda :LOL:
  9. Paul, R1 reg/rec conversions on hondas are common. Any aftermarket unit with cooling fins will do the job, I wouldn't buy any honda unit.

    Early 1999-2000 R6 reg/recs are also prone to failure, make sure you get the right one.

    I actually used to carry an old spare on my vfr....
  10. This happened to the Blackbird (01) last year. Cost me $220 for an OEM unit. I couldn't fit an aftermarket item as I couldn't find one that had matching wiring. The BB's has an extra wire. Not sure what it does, can't remember now.

    I've owned two CBR1000Fs. Neither of them had VR problems, despite a combined 120,000km on them.

    So, I don't know if the problem is that widespread. But then I might've been lucky.
  11. I always had a theory that the smaller hondas that had higher redlines were more of a problem, since the alternator voltage has to regulated over a very wide rev range.

    Don't know if there's much substance to it.
  12. Yes Honda reg/recs get plenty of bad press (deservedly in most cases) but any unit with cooling fins wont fix the problem on early VFR's. The main problem is lack of cooling airflow over the unit, not the quality of the latter OEM units..

    I replaced mine at 36K with an "aftermarket" unit from a local auto elec, shop that looked identical to the OE. 120K later its still going strong. I have since found out that the so called after market unit is in fact the same unit Honda sell (but without Honda designation).

    So why did it last, I fitted a computer case fan to it (powered from the rear tail light so it only ran when the bikes running). The 750's had a reg without cooling fins fitted to a part of the bike where there is minimal cooling air flow. For 98 they added cooling fins but with no more airflow and so they also overheated and failed too. This is a common mod in the VFR world, and many users that put the fan on their original units are still going stong. Just make sure you use a quality ball race unit ($25) as the plain bearing ones only last a year about 25K.
  13. I also use a silver heatsink compound between the frame and the reg/rec to dissipate even more heat.
  14. How times change.

    A few years ago, the CB250/400N rec-reg was the unit of choice for replacing cooked Suzuki units.

    Mind you, that may have had something to do with cheapness and wide availability (and some superiority to Suzuki's notoriously crappy units) rather than any inherent wonderfullness.

    Ahhh, the smell of boiling battery acid on a winters morning.