Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Honda VFR400 / NC30 Project

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by ward_4e, Jan 24, 2007.

  1. Ok people I am thinking of taking on a NC30 as a project bike. I havent totaly decided but I am slowly convincing myself that its a hot idea. Its probably going to be a three stage process with the first to be doing a full strip down repair and replace and rebuild, race rearsets, crash protection etc. The second a tygra set of new fairings subframe. The optional third will be microsquirt efi.

    I have been browsing a few forums and looking for parts and accessories and well by comparison to my trumpy its way too easy. So I will need advice has anyone had or owned or worked on a VFR 400? I have downloaded the owners manual, full service manual and pricing.

    Does anyone have any web pages blogs and or honda sites they can point me in.

    Hopefully by the end of the project if I take it on it will look like:


  2. additional shots.


  3. I've owned 3 NC30's, I still have one as a track bike, fantastic things.

    I'm more of a traditionalist and prefer the original lines/shape, but some of the tyga conversions look okay, the end result usually comes down to the paint job.

    I also prefer to source all of the original HRC F3 race parts rather than efi (yep, old school), but whatever floats your boat. You'll end up losing some of the linearity and drive of the engine just to chase a few more hp (5 if you're lucky over well set up carbs). Just think of how some of the big manufacturers sometimes get the fuelling wrong, and you'll see what you're up against when it comes to the mapping...

    The below site is the ultimate vfr/rvf resource, if something hasn't been done on these bikes then it's just not possible! There are a fair few Aus members on there that have done Tyga conversions. Will be seeing you there a bit if you do decide to undertake the project I bet!


    Feel free to mail me off forum if you have any specific questions about these bikes.
  4. hey cammo,

    I'm already registerd for that site same name etc. and I will be asking alot of questions overthere if I can get the funds to start the project. I have nothing against the original styling of a vfr400 and the bike will appearnce wise be the same till after the first set a well and done and I get some racing and track time done. The second set of mods is mostly a learning about customising a motorcycle, pain etc and getting some work for a close friend. I may leave it stock but I have a feeling if i go the first step well the second would make a realy identifable bike.

    efi well thats me wanting to learn again, performance gains aside I just want to do it for a greater understanding. I guess this project will mostly be me trying to create a rideable hand grenade and having fun along the way.
  5. Sounds good. They're a quality bike which makes working on them (bar the engine!) pretty simple, it's a well thought out design. The engine can be a hassle (adjusting valves, seating carbs, etc) but you won't need to go there often, make sure to do it right the first time!

    The suspension should be the first thing to sort, mainly due to age. A new rear shock is essential usually, and will transform the handling back to what it should be.
    It's common knowledge that this is the single best mod you can make to these bikes (I run an aprilia rs250 shock with adjustable ride height on mine).
    The forks are usually easily sorted (if they are the later model) with an oil change and heavier springs fitted, especially for track work.
    The brakes are pretty good (even by today's non-radial examples) but stainless lines are a must.
    Don't ever be tempted to open up the airbox for better breathing- any change will need drastic rejetting.
    A half exhaust system (doesnt replace the rear headers, no need) will give a bit more midrange and top end, and they sound the nuts with a loud pipe!

    As well as the electronic manuals you have, a Haynes workshop manual is a must for these bikes I reckon. It explains everything much more clearly than the other versions (I have them all).

    A bit more reading material to get you started...



    http://www.nc30.jp/index1.html (choose English!)

    http://www.southerncrosssports.com/ (good for parts, in Melbourne)
  6. Wow, Good links Cammo.

    http://www.harkermatic.com/ has a full rebuild and 954 usd forks etc. Nice rebuild i particularly like the black powder coated frame and swing arm that is definatley on the hit list now.

    Well I'm in for a wait i have just had to pay out a ton of cash so i'm broke for the next month. Hopefully i can start this sooner rather than later.
  7. Just to add another small point -I wouldn't worry too much about converting the rear wheel to 17 inch from the standard 18. There might not be a huge range of tyres to choose from but what are available seem to work pretty well on the street. I have run Dunlop GPR 100 (for touring -yes, its done about 15,000kms of that :) ) and my current favourite would be the Bridgestone battleaxe 014. More than enough grip for the street. Enough to scrape pegs sidestands & fairings :grin: I can get around 7000kms out of them -only 5 or 6 hundred less than the GPR 100's. Pretty sure Metzeler do an M1 to suit & for really sticky track tyres the Dunlop GPR70.

    I have done about 46,000kms on my bike (plus the 10,000kms on it when I bought it) & the only problem I have ever had in that time is a blown regulator/rectifier that took out the battery as well. I do all my own servicing & in that time only had to adjust 2 inlet valve shims. Pretty damn amazing considering the bike spends pretty much all its time with the throttle pinned to the stop & close to redline :LOL:
    Cammo is right -they are an absolute pr!ck to do any engine/carb work on. I have yet to do any suspension work on mine but even in standard trim (I have the last NC 30 model made) the handling is superb. A really stiff chassis with great brakes & very very good weight distribution. There is not much out there that will see you off on a nice sweeping twisty road even today.

    I personally would not bother with any engine mods -as Cammo has said just slip on a pipe & rejet to suit. They sound absolutely fantastic then. Oh -and de restrict the 180km/hr speed limiter. You will find yourself banging up against it on a pretty regular basis otherwise. Well I did anyway :LOL: And not just in a straight line either :wink: They sort of tend to do that to you :LOL: Yep, I love mine.
  8. Chears guy's I'll have to keep my momentum up!
  9. Hey there ward -did you happen to get a price on that updated bodywork for an NC30? What exactly do you get for your $$?
  10.  Top

  11. Ok I was looking at total conversion packages but most of the suppliers can wo could supply just a rear or a front depending on what you wanted. The first source was a uk supplier lets see.... ah here:


    Once you do the math plus shipping well its cost prohibitive I am not made of money but now I have one less THE EX! I eat what I want, can have a project and clean my TT600 for two hours without the evil eye... The all seeing eveil eye... :p LOTR!!!! sorry, plus each fairing has to be shipped seperatley etc.. But its all itemised so if you really need just the one peice duck fairing you can get it.

    Then I googled it and came back to a tiawanese / malay / singapore manufacturer of fairings and found quite fantastic made farings. ... here:


    after six email and no response i have come to the conclusion that the dont want my buissness. Pity as they would have been the cheapest by far for a total converion package. Sick looking rossi conversion and cbr400 etc... :( oh so sexxy

    Then I was over at trademe.co.nz its my other ebay and I found this item ah wait its gone but here is the listing:


    which looks like the bc one here but included the tygra rear frame and fairings that you can see on the brit page! it was a bargan 1200 NZD!!:


    Anyhow in all cases the package was bolts, fairings, lights probably no globes, in most cases mirrors and fixings. All should be adr approved etc but i was going to check first.

    As for pricing???
    the most expensive was the brit fairings: $3000+ landed for full set
    the cheapest AVALIABLE set was the NZ package: 1200NZD = frieght so $1300
    then there is bc: $1380 + 980 + freight so 2650 - 2800 inc freight!

    I wouldnt fit any of these unless I had frame sliders !! All of these fairings would require painting etc so add 1200 - 1600 for three coast colour one or two 50/50 and two coats clear.

    man the price you pay for being unique! :roll:
  12. Wardy, see my post above your last for the Aus distributer, you can save on freight by picking them up in Melbourne.

    As for the others...

    Tyga is the manufacturer, located in Thailand, the UK distributor is Jap 4 Performance. Shipping will be a killer from these guys.

    Don't even touch Asia Trading, most don't even get a response, and those that have, have had lots of problems (bits missing, overcharged, etc). The quality of their glass and fitment is not very good either.
  13. Just opinion, but these things seem beguking dear for what they are.

    Nice bike, but can a 15 year old 400 really be worth the same as a few year old 600.

    In the late 90's you may have been able to argue the rfv was a much higher spec then 600s of the mid-90s, but there's no way the arguement would wash with the 600s that have been made since 2000.

    the most I'd pay for one of these would be $4000. After that there are better things on the market
  14. ibast, I agree that the rvf's are overpriced. They are only that price because of the LAM's, just as 250 prices in Vic have been inflated for the last decade or more.

    You can pick up good vfr's for $4-5k if you look around, as these aren't LAM's approved.

    Personally I'd much rather own a tidy street rvf though than a common-as-muck R6 or cbr6, I guess there's a a bit of nostalgia also in owning a mini V4. I hope more people choose 600's over a 400 though, it helps to keep the prices down...

    The fun-per-hour meter is off the scale on these small bikes, I personally couldn't use any more power than what these bikes have on the road, and 18 months ago took both I had at the time off the road to use as track bikes, which is where the fun really is on them.

    My most recent two:


  15. The primary reason fo me getting one is the education I wil get from stripping down and rebuildng a motorcycle. Plus a major quirky wow factor once the project is over. I have always liked different bikes ones that arent that common place...

    cost? I gave up being concerned about costs when I realised how expensive fully faired motorcycles are to repair.

    Well after next week I will begin saving, then once I reach that magical 5k figure i'l start my project. 5k being bike 3.5k rego 0.5k tools 0.5k beer and councelling 1k I'll do a full budget later to get an idea of costs.

    edit: the first thing i will do is get a better breather hose setup for the tank, the original one looks plain nasty!
  16. well after a half hour of swearing last night and several trips up and down the stairs to the basement I'm looking at getting a decent set of tools!!! :wink:

    My curent set consists of two half motorcycle tool kits, one honda one triumph a super cheep socket set an old 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and asorted screw drivers.... its go to go... I will kill myself if i have to pull a bike apart and rebuild it using these tools!

    I'm in two minds one says get a chest and buy the bits you need to make mu set fully functional again should cost:


    and tools abut 600 all up or i purchase one of these puppies:


    i am so torn... to spend the extra money or not....
  17. Although good tools will never be cheap, I reckon you could save a fair chunk of that price by just buying what you need.

    You won't need any imperial sizes, so you can save on that at least. Personally I would just buy all of the stuff separately, quality is indispensable for some tools, but other tools can be bought for cheap. Don't skimp when it comes to a decent spanner/socket set and driver, and a torque wrench will be needed. Good screwdrivers are handy also, as is a breaker bar. I would buy the rest for cheap.

    Depending how far you go with a stripdown, you'll need some castle sockets also, dunno if you can buy them all, but you can make them up out of old sockets. The nc30 also uses a unique spark plug size (so you'll need the wrench) and a 'c' spanner to adjust the chain is a must or you'll foul the hub on the single swinger.
  18. cheers cammo,

    i have a few 'c' spanners already two for suspension which may may not work one from a trumpy and another well i dont quite remember where i got it :wink:

    I think a decent tool chest and buy what I need.
  19. Are they selling for the money being asked? I think they are or the prices would drop would they not? So are they overpriced? Figure it out for yourself.
    How many bikes have you bought because of the price tag & spec sheet? Is that why you ride? How do Ducatis, Aprillias, KTMs, Benellis and any other slightly unique bikes sell then? I buy bikes based on passion & enjoyment -not on reading a spec sheet & penny pinching.

    Could not have said it better myself Cammo. You have to actually ride one to appreciate them. It took me a 5 minute test ride to decide -stopping at an ATM to draw out the money for the deposit on the way back :LOL:
    Simply put, I have had the most fun I have ever had on the road riding my baby 400 :wink:
  20. That's the go.. buy or build the toolbox. Then get yourself a decent 1/2" and 1/4" socket set, a set of ring/open enders to kick it off, then buy what you need, as you need it.

    I suggest "Stanley" brand as a good balance between cost and quality.