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Honda NSR150SP maintenance

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by dimsum, Oct 17, 2007.

  1. Hey, i just bought a NSR150 and was wondering what should i know about the bike, the maintenance and the servicing requirments.
    I got the general gist that it need to be maintained quite regularly but i can't seem to find anything exact.
    Any info like warm up times, how to ride it, do's and don'ts, Anything useful would be great!!!!

    Also, where is a good place to take the bike in Sydney cause a few places dont' service the NSR.

    The bike is starting to sound abit funny at low idle like the bike is pinging or something...

  2. don't service an NSR?

    i've never been turned away?

    i get mine done @ www.budgetbikes.com.au // great place

    but if u do a quick search on nsr 150sp ...theres heaps of threads on what your after..

    warm up time - i leave it for about 5 minutes..without throttling then runs very well

    how to ride - the way your taught at the pre-learners?

    do check your 2 stroke oil levels i use (Motul 710 2t) and tyre pressures reguarly

    do start your engine with the clutch in

    low idle ..is it like a rattling? whats a pinging?
  3. ok...maybe not a pinging sound
    but sounds like something is hitting the engine when it on idle, like "thuck" sound, also the idle seems like it's going to die...

    close motorcycle don't work on them apparently

    after owning it for a couple of days ive noticed that the 'thucking' sound goes away and idle becomes smoother if i ride it abit hard (like almost to redline)
    Also, after warming it up, i ride it and open the throttle it bike doesn't really want to accelerate and changes noise to a very rattling or something.

    oh, when i was asking about how to ride it i meant should i keep it under a certain rev when cruising...stuff like that
  4. oh

    since its a 2stroke

    ride it hard and ride it fast // but never into the redline

    the power band is up the rpm's

    so yeh the low idle might seem like its gonna die..

    i had that problem myself..i had to keep the throttle up a little when i was stopped to around 2 - 3 rpm so it wouldnt die

    after a major service that went away
  5. congrats dimsum,

    i just purchased one myself (1.5 months ago), but i only just go my license 2 weeks ago!


    my mate happened to purchase one a month before me, and he's very (car) mechanically minded so im learning quite a few things about bikes and servicing / maintenance myself, we both are actually.

    a few things ive noticed:

    -i leave mine 2-3 mins not sure if its doing it damage but i ride it a little cold, it chuggs low down, not for long though

    -the bike in general doesn't really move until 5000-8000 rpm (by that i mean low down it can be slugish, so if you really want to give it some, you might have to drop it down a gear or two)

    - dropping it down 1 gear can make a small diff if you feel th bike being sluggish but if you (as above) really want it to move, drop it two

    - im sure you'll learn, but off the mark you have to learn to rev it to 3000 to take off, otherwise any lower and its a slugish start.

    - don't stall it at lights etc, you'll learn quickly that its embarrassing as you have to kick start it!

    -when maintaining, lube the chain once a week or so, depending on your K's (thats the general rule ive heard, not a specific amount of Km's)

    - check your oil levels once every few days / once a week depending on how many km's you do.

    - in regards to 1L oil bottles per tank, ive been told different things, but you only really have to fill it (full bottle) every couple of months (again depending on how often you ride)

    - petrol: now depending on your area / location depends on that fuel you should use, i suggest trying a few out, im in western sydney, and my mechanically minded mate with the NSR150 says Mobile 8000 is the best, i have only ever filled mine with the top range stuff (8000) and only ever used mobile, then again ive only filled it twice, so really test whats best for you, i know the tank says only 95, but i reckon my mate knows what he's on about so i trust him

    - tyre pressure, do check it often, although i haven't checked mine lately. the manual says what the pressure should be.

    - servicing; ive heard it should be serviced every 4000km's, but these are 2 strokes so depending on how your bike is running that might change. can i ask how many K's your bike has on it dimsum?

    -rpm while riding: usually when ive ridden ive stuck between 5-6000 rpm, i have only ever gotten my NSR up to 8500-9000 rpm max, and the reason i backed off was because i was actually being pushed into the back of my seat, it was accelerating that quickly. my mate on the other hand who also has an NSR, can't do the same, his bike is in need of a service and is running a bit rough.

    - if you need a soft copy pdf of the manual:

    i actually have a question myself:

    is it bad to ride with the choke on?

    anyway i hope any of this stuff helped, if you have any specific questions, post em up in here :)

    i found the NSR to be a great bike, especially since im learning on it!
    its also a lot easier than bigger bikes to pull apart, there are only a few tools needed, my mate and i joke that its almost like a toy, especially since we changed his front brake pads and saw how small they were :)



    :) :)

    also heres another thread i posted in that talks about he NSR150

    • Like Like x 1
  6. i don't know the correct answer

    but i only use choke to start the engine in cold weather and push it off when the rpms rev by itself to around 4000 and let it warm up at low idle 1300

    the bike seems to run smoother this way.. but experiment and try for yourself i guess
  7. ive warmed mine up quite a few times and mine never "easily" pops up to high revs, like my mate's pops up to 3000 when its ready, where as mine sits at 2000 for ages. ive seen mine pop up once maybe, and i think it only poped up to 2500 or so.

    ill test it out but i usually turn the choke off after a km or 2.

    what tyre pressure do you have your tyres at seanske?
  8. 36 front
    41 rear

    i commute to work everyday and my pressure goes down after 1 day of riding

    so i redo the pressure daily =/

    im gonna get a new set of tyres ..hopefully this will go away
  9. yeh i own an nsr150...
    must say it takes a while to start up buy i think the carbs may need a service. I also get a rattling sound as if a bolts loose in the engine but disappears as it warms....i think this is a 2 stroke thing.
    MMT in granville are an honest group of mechanics that have no trouble servicing my bike.
  10. That's a trifle high!

    The manual and the sign on the chainguard say 29 psi front and rear.

    Maybe 30 if it's not losing air between rides.

    Otherwise when it's too tight the tread doesn't make proper contact with the road and the tyres won't heat up and grip properly.


    Trevor G

  11. Set the idle when warm to 1300 rpm approx.

    Don't choke the engine with unburnt fuel and oil by warming it up on the choke. Ride it as soon as you can, but don't ride it hard - that is, over half throttle and 7,000 rpm - until it is warm. That should only take a km or so in this weather.

    I think you mean that when it first runs it won't rev out properly, and makes a different sound to normal. That is just because there is too much oil and fuel in the engine from the cold/choke running.

    As you accelerate through the gears it will rev out more and more in each gear. You could hold it flat in first for a long, long time and never have it rev out when cold (which would be a bad thing, anyway!) THe trick is to change up as soon as it stops accelerating and makes that strange, misfiring noise. The next gear will wind out further and each one even more after that.

    Remember not to rev it hard while cold, though.


    Trevor G
  12. It's not beneficial, especially on a stroker. A choke restricts the air flow into the engine, making the air fuel ratio higher (optimum starting conditions). This will mean that you will foul your plugs as you are effectively running rich.

    Running rich on a stroker means lots of unburnt fuel and oil, so you'll be smokier, oil will eventually build up in your exhaust (and RC valve), carbon will also build up in the exhaust.

    As most of the posts here say, just use it long enough to get the bike running.
  13. I'm a bit confused. I've seen specialised 2t gearbox oil, and the manual lists all of these viscosities to use, which my oil doesn't have on it at all. Those viscosities refer to non-synth oil, correct? Does my Motul 710 go into both the engine reservoir and the transmission?

    Also, do i have to drain the remaining oil to change from non-synth to synth?

    The first jobs I'll be doing are bleeding the brakes and getting the chain up to scratch (filthy and probably poorly lubed), as well as the oil change. I suppose an air and oil filter replacement is probably called for too. Also have my headlights stuck on high beams but cant seem to unscrew the switch case from the bars :(
  14. hey davo, firstly good choice on bike :p The Motul 710 is the oil that goes into the oil reservoir under your seat. do you know what sort of oil has been used previously? all the different types of gearbox oil which can be used is listed in the users maual :) i still have the repsol factory gearbox oil which is 10W40 and is synthetic, not sure about the others listed in the manual though :oops: when i got my bike a few months ago i had the same problem with the high beam, opened it up and did not get it going, bought a second hand item from the wreckers for $40, might wanna check that out :grin: stay safe! regards, stefan
  15. The last guy was using $12/L Castrol :(

    Thanks for the info!
  16. Actually, there are three types of cold start device: the choke, as you have mentioned, the fuel enrichening device and cold start jet.

    The cold start jet is a separate jet with an opening for rich fuel/air mixture in the side of the carb. It only works properly when the throttle is shut. The more you open the throttle the less effect the fuel richening/cold start jet has.

    Few engines these days use a choke, which is a flap which covers the outer, incoming edge of the venturi to restrict air flow. They were used more frequently in Japanese bikes up until the 80s, and in european carbs even less frequently. The more you open the throttle with a choke, the richer the mixture gets.

    Somewhere in the 70s the fuel enrichening device, or "tickler" was also dropped for pollution and hazard reasons. This was a spring-loaded knob on the outside of the carb body. When you pressed it, you forced the carb float down to allow more fuel in to the float bowl, usually until some dribbled from the overflow port in the body. Messy, and in some cases, prone to catch fire with all the fuel dripping down over the engine.

    The NSR150, like all recent jap carbed engines I know of, uses a cold start jet.

    Turn any choke off as soon as you can, riding off gently as soon as possible. Cold start devices damage four strokes when used to excess, because the fuel-rich mixture washes the already scarce oil from cylinder walls and thus promotes engine wear.

    Two-strokes do not really suffer damage, as such, from over choking - they just don't perform properly until you clear them through acceleration (once the egine is warmed up).


    Trevor G
  17. thanks for the interesting advice!
  18. What do you guys think of this spare parts pack from thailand?

    Asahi chains and NGK plugs are supposed to be good brands correct? He has good feedback, what do you guys think?

    Also, the manual recommends "B9ECS" plugs but he includes BP8ES. What is the difference?

  19. Like everything you should check local values first.

    NSR150 spares from a Honda dealer are very cheap. We would have never used some of the bargains included in his deal, so there goes some of the perceived value. If you fall off a lot it might be useful...

    Two entirely different plugs. You should never need to use an "8" heatrange plug in ans NSR150. Even just tootling around town our 150 doesn't foul a "9" range plug. Only use the recommended B9ECS plug as shown on the tank of the bike and in the rider's manual.

    CAUTION: The Honda spares list is also wrong - it shows a B8ECS as the correct plug, although the workshop manual on the same CD has a warning bulletin to say that this is wrong! I am assured that Honda publish a new CD monthly, but the error remains.

    I wonder how many innocents have been sold the wrong plug as I nearly was. It was only because I insisted and could explain to the less-knowledgeable spares guy about the error that I got the correct plug. A hotter plug (lower number) will tend to melt a hole in the top of the piston under highway or constant speed use.

    Oh, and the P indicates a projected tip, which will sit further in the combustion chamber. Not a good idea in this case, either...


    Trevor G
  20. Wow thanks for the info! The only things I need soon are a plug and brake pads, so I suppose I'll order locally.