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Honda CT110 rear brake adjustment

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by postie-rider, Apr 12, 2016.

  1. Hi Guys,

    After putting the real wheel back on the bike, I found out I had to adjust the rear brake all the way towards the end of the adjustment shaft(pretty much) to get the brake paddle to have enough play, so I can practically use rear brake.

    However, the brake shoes appeared to have plenty of meat on it.
    I would say around couple of millimeters, at least.

    I added a picture of the adjustment shaft and how far I had to go to adjust the nut to get the brake paddle to the desired spot.
    I forgot to take a picture of the brake shoes, so take my word on the condition of the brake shoes.

    Did I do something wrong??!!

    Or is this the way it is?

    Or do I need to replace the brake shoes right now or sometime soon?

    I really can't remember whether the adjustment nut was that far in before I had to take the wheel out(for replacing the tyre and tube).

    Thanx in advance for any help.


    BTW, this is a postie(Honda CT110)
  2. if the brake actually works, then the brake shoes are probably being moved ok.

    you can pull the arm off the splined shaft, and rotate it clockwise (in your picture), and then reduce the amount of adjustment you are using..
    • Informative Informative x 1
  3. If u look above that nut u will see the metal piece has a round hole in it where it slides over a spline . That is also another way to adjust it
    • Informative Informative x 1
  4. I was just busy typing the same! Beaten to the draw!
    • Informative Informative x 1
  5. Thanx.

    Brakes are working fine. I just didn't like the idea that i have turn the adjustment nut so far in.

    I considered adjusting it by pullingn turning handle and moving it back few teeth as you guys advise above.

    I'm pretty sure the rear brake was properly adjusted before I took the wheel out and
    the adjustment wasn't that far in.
    I was wondering whether I did something not right with the brake shoe assembly.
    I think, I'll turn the shaft few teeth backwards so the adjustment shaft won't be sticking out the bear thread part
    of it as much.
    Couple of millimeters or more meat on the brake shoes should be ok for the time being, shouldn't it?!!
  6. if the arm was adjusted ok before.. definitely pull the brakes out and check!
    • Informative Informative x 1
  7. Size matters. We'd all like a couple of millimeters of more meat.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  8. just a thought.. have you adjusted the wheel position to take up chain slack?
    if the wheel was further forward than before, you'd need to wind on more rear brake adjustment
    • Like Like x 1
  9. Of course. Thanx for clearing out that for me.
    Now I remember the part that I left out in the OP above.
    I actually replaced the rear sprocket as well. The old one was badly worn out.
    That must have made a slight forward movement of the wheel, effectively changing
    the brake lever position.
    That must be the reason I had to turn the adjustment nut bit further in to get the brake pedal to the correct spot.
    • Like Like x 1
  10. I think as another member pointed out above, it must be due to wheel position change, 'cos I replaced the old worn sprocket with a new one.