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Hi polished alloy.What keeps it staying shiny

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by revit, Aug 8, 2006.

  1. Hi all, I have polished my alloy forks and engine side cover on my CB250T and seem to fade and go powdery white.Is there anything to put on them to make them last.I've tryed clear in a spray and it seems to go yellow after a while.Does anyone know the secret. :( :( :(

  2. There is a product called Autosol (sp?) which you can get from Repco etc....is brilliant on metals.
  3. So is Purple metal polish - I buy it from a truck supplier (Vic), dunno where it available elsewhere - simply the best stuff I've ever used.
  4. A product called "elbow grease", readily available, however not always easy to get working. Some find it too much trouble to use and abandon the task. If you value the finished product, then "elbow grease" will keep it looking bling if regularly applied :wink:

    Or, autosol as mentioned above. :grin:
  5. I have a similar Q: Some of the metal around my instrument cluster has a white residue on it as well. It doesnt wipe off with the wash or WD. Any ideas?
  6. Autosol is a bit too abrasive for already polished surfaces!

    Mothers Mag/Alloy polish is the best stuff; easy to use & a great finnish with no residue.
    Supercheap stock it!
  7. Great stuff, even got the colour out of my pipes

    Got another one too,. but it's slightly more abrasive
  8. Polished alloy will never stay shiny, it looks good while the bike is covered in plastic in the crate.

    Interesting about Autosol being too abrasive, heard from many people who had some pretty slick looking bikes to use it :?

    You can get most metals chromed and they will be sparkling for years, takes a few weeks for the process but the price is very reasonable compared to buying it new already chromed.
  9. First hand experiance after hand polishing a set of wheels :roll:
    I used autosol then mothers for the final polish but to keep them shiny it's mothers every 3-4 months & bloody easy to do!

  10. :rofl:

    Use the autosol sparingly, it's all in the polishing.
  11. Yep, it's either going to be the result of having used detergent to wash the bike (which aluminium doesn't like) or from one of the assorted variety of chemicals found in rain as a result of air pollution. It's a corrosion product (aluminium equivalent of rust) so usually needs to be removed physically ie sanding/polishing.
  12. I've done a polished GSX R11 rear rim in clear laquer for a Harley and seen it 6 months after and it was fine with no yellowing. How soon did yours yellow?

    A good quality clear lacquer over polished alloy should not yellow off over time, check with the supplier on suitability for alloy. Use a reputable top quailty automotive clear.

    polishing old faded alloy is done with a varity of polishes and lots of elbow grease to get it looking like chrome. (clear laquer will dull it to an extent). As mentioned by others, the size of abrassives need to be smaller and as fine as possible for final polish.

    Hope you get to keep it looking pretty with minimal effort.

    Side note, people who go crazy with poilshing alloy every where you can on the engine can run into over-heating prob's. Just a warning if the "pretty bug" bites any one.
  13. When polishing alloy Autosol works the best however it contains jewlers rouge which is absolutly brilliant for putting those fine scratches into your chrome / polished stainless finishes.

    I use a product called bright shine cotton wading comes in a can for keeping alloy looking good and it does not scratch chrome or stainless

    its quick and keeps it looking good for 3 months max if ridden daily

    Yep the shiny bug when it bites its damm hard to resist

    Paint it black or two pack gloss finish to keep it looking good without the work

    Thats why all my bits i make for the bike are stainless steel
  14. On my old bike I used a product called liquid reflections
    It's awesome
  15. :) You have the right idea, everything that I make for my bike is made out of stainless steel.Better than alloy shit.
  16. Best thing to stop the tarnish when the alloy is polished is to ensure that when you wash the bike dry it well , dont use truckwash as some of the stuff contains chemicals that will accelerate oxidisation ( the white stuff).

    A mate that did metal polishing as a buisness used to reckon good old fashioned Brasso used sparingly was the best finishing agent , he said Autosol was usless as tooth paste and left a horrible film.
    I have used both and Brasso is easy to use as a maintenance polish as its not very abrasive.

    There is a clearcaot powdercaoat availabe these days , not cheap but is suppose to be good after polishing , dunno never seen it apart rom the factory stuff.
  17. Any detergent, or anything alkaline, will accelerate corrosion of aluminium. So if you must use something to clean uncoated, polished alloy find something that's acid based (citrus based cleaners are good).
    • Like Like x 1
  18. to add another product to the foray, maguiar's "Nxt (sic) Generation" Metal polish is beaut on quite a few different surfaces. Seems to be unable to get rid of some of the baked on stuff on the engine covers, but pretty good everywhere else (and it gives an extra "depth" to the chrome - the same way paint polish makes the paint "deeper"
  19. Hubby swears buy this stuff but have not been able to buy it in nsw, anybody in nsw knew were to buy it :?:
  20. :wink:
    We use autosol on dull alloy and then mothers to bring it up.
    You need to run a cloth over them every ride and dont let the soap sit on them when washing ,Just wash and rinse straight away and run a rag and small amount of Mothers over when dry.
    They will look great if you take the time to keep them up and they will break your heart if you dont.
    Chrome if your lazy and arms like popeye if your not.