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Help tracking down electrical issue required.

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Djamba, Apr 2, 2015.

  1. So a while ago the battery on my bike died...so I replaced it. Three weeks later that one died too. After some investigation I figured out that my voltage regulator was busted but I wasn't able to to get the part for a couple of weeks so I continued to ride the bike, swapping out the two batteries which I kept charging overnight on a trickle charger. This went on for a couple of weeks but each day the battery lasted less and less time, eventually while waiting for the replacement part to arrive I was having to take a spare battery with me just to get to work and back (60Kms round trip) in case it ran out on the way (Which it did once....).

    I have now replaced the regulator and confirmed that it is working (I put the bike facing a wall and revved the engine which caused the headlight to increase in brightness, something that it didn't do prior to replacing the regulator). I took a fully charged battery, or at least the charger said it was full, and went for a ride. All seemed to be fine until I got home where I decided to restart the bike a few times to make sure it was ok....after three starts the battery no longer held enough juice to kick the bike into gear...aarggh!@*@#$)!

    Soooo....I have the following questions:

    1.) Could the battery be fcuked due to being ridden with a faulty regulator and if so shall I just try the other two I have in the garage?
    2.) Is there a way to check if the battery is fcuked?
    3.) Apart from the light test are there any other test I can run to confirm it's all working?
    4.) Do I need to start worrying about my stator or other electrical issues?

    Thanks for the advice in advance!

  2. cjvfrcjvfr , Chris is good at that stuff, if he's around I'm sure he will help you out.
  3. Yes.it is possible, regulators often fail to the overvoltage state which can cook a battery. Your description of light changing doesn't suggest that though. Try your other battery what have you got to lose.

    Testing batteries is a picky job requiring putting standard loads on and looking at voltage drops and times etc. There are automated testers Batteryworld have these testers and will test a battery for you.

    You need a multimeter to get an idea on what is going on. Worth buying a cheapy if you don't have one. With the bike revving at cruise revs you should be getting 13.5 - 14.8 volts across the battery to indicate it is charging.

    Not yet but it is possible, as discussed above get a multimeter for the next steps.
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  4. Yep, overcharging a flooded cell battery will stuff it over time (and cause your bike to rust).

    Yep, over-discharging a flooded cell battery will stuff it over time.

    Get a new battery.

  5. Crap - they're out of Flux Capacitors and DeLoreans :(
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  6. #6 Ducfreak, Apr 3, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2015
    Both your batteries are now down on capacity from the abuse, so dont expect "new" performance from them.
    It seems to be charging OK, from the non meter tests, and cranking a 650 V twin to start without a rest between starts and with a (probably) around 7 A/h battery, 3 times is what I'd expect.
    I've seeen good batteries on ST13oo's fail to start after 3 attempts too, they run a 8A/h sealed lead acid.
  7. Stator may have been taken out, check with multimeter. When Reg/rec dies they sometimes toast stators ESP if you kept riding with fcuked reg/rec
  8. If the regulator is working properly, and the battery is fully charged off your bench charger, then I wouldn't expect to see noticable brightness change in the headlight when you rev the bike.
    Also, a good charger will recover a poorly conditioned battery to better operating levels.
    Runing them on a trickle charger often won't charge them to full capacity.
  9. Thanks to you all for the help and advice. Will run some tests this weekend.